La Brace Praiano – Dinner with a view

Antique hand-cut stones laid carefully on top of one another to support the wooden tussle ceiling supports create an aura of the antique craftsmanship of times passed. The food in this restaurant must be good. The environment is quiet, sturdy, and au nature. Restaurants spend millions of dollars creating environment. Some places just have the environment because they are the real thing. Praiano is one of my favorite places to get away and relax. If you want a change from the great food at Hotel Tritone, La Brace in the center of Praiano is a perfect solution.

La Brace is no longer one of those places that only the locals know about. The slow travel group featured the restaurant a couple of years ago but this has not ruined the restaurant. La Brace has been able to intermingle the slow travel type into its regular business. La Brace still offers quality service, in Italian said to be “all’antica.” La Brace serves regional dishes and has a good selection of local wines. Some of the plates worth trying are the Pasta alle Alici and the Pesto Amalfitana followed the Caponata Paesana and finished with Vin Santo and biscotti.

The environment would be considered a little stuffy by today’s contemporary standards. Waiters dressed in white shirts and bowties, white tablecloths and porcelain plates. The view is incredible. Located in the city built on the cliffs overlooking the Sea, every table seems to be suspended in the air with a complete view of the Costiera Amalfitana. Authentic food, a great view and impeccable service make La Brace a destination that will become a part of those places you remember with fondness over the years.

LA BRACE
LOCALITA' VETTICA MAGGIORE, VIA G. CAPRIGLIONE, 146
84010 PRAIANO (SA)
Tel: +39 089 874226

Tags: Italian Restaurants Costa Amalfitana Praiano Food and Wine Travel Italy

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Millefoglie and other Pastry Delights in Rome

Temptation is on every corner of every street. Fruit tarts stare at you from the protection of their refrigerated case. Quiet voices penetrate the surrounding street noise, whispering “we are so good and you can’t have us!” A round cream covered cake from the back row, emboldened by her smaller colleagues, becomes impertinent “Don’t even think about it with that life preserver permanently affixed to your waist!” The prodding continues as the Sacher Torta decides to wield the final blow without mercy, “Chocolate with apricot jam smothered in a dark chocolate ganasce will surely satisfy your growing craze but can you afford a new pair of pants?”

How dare they challenge me? Such arrogance from a dessert designed to satisfy my sweet tooth and never ending chocolate craving. “I will have you,” becomes my immediate objective. No threat of losing the battle of the bulge will make me shrink away from such a worthy foe. I enter the store and quickly engage in taking control of those insignificant little treats.

Some of you can appreciate my battle. Some will think I am superficial to give such importance to food. I confess, I have a sweet tooth. I love chocolate, fruity tarts, soft cakes covered in flavored creams and creampuffs of all sorts. Italy has many shops who take the art of baking to an entirely new level. In Rome one of these is the Pasticceria Cavalletti. Pasticcera Cavalletti in Via Nemorense has been making pastries since 1951. They produce their sweets by hand with fresh ingredients. There is no doubt about their professional capability. One nibble lets you know they know their business.

Some places will entice you with great looking presentations then you are somehow disappointed as the balance and flavour do not meet your expectations. Do not get me wrong the presentation is important but the natural flavours must explode. A perfect dessert is texture and flavour. I think about it like snuggling under the comforter on a cold winters morning. The experience is enveloping.

If you are in Rome and want to taste those Italian desserts the way they should taste then the Pasticceria Cavaletti, via Nemorense 179/181 is a stop for you.

Tags: Italian Restaurants Lazio Rome Food and Wine Travel Italy

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Poggio Antico – Not just a winery – Visit Montalcino

Vacationing in Montalcino. The great wines of Tuscany are not the only reason to visit this area. Many wineries not only make wine, but also produce Olive Oil and may have a small restaurant. I have found that while the wine may be really good the true attraction is one of the ancillary services they offer. Poggio Antico is one of these wineries. Located in Montalcino the restaurant is one of the best places to eat in the area. Considering this is in the heart of Tuscany that is saying something.

The Poggio Antico restaurant is owned by the winery but is run by the husband and wife team, Roberto e Patrizia Minnetti. The menu’ is constantly changing as the finest and freshest ingredients are employed to prepare traditional regional plates. The menu’ is also carefully choreographed to the elegant wines of the winery. Desserts are prepared in house and local cheeses are part of the attraction. The ambiance of the restaurant is that of a traditional Tuscan villa, elegant yet sober.

This restaurant is an opportunity to participate in a unique culinary experience, once part of even the simplest life but today rarely found. It is true balance at the dinner table. Foods prepared with local ingredients, Olive Oil for olives grown in the same ground as the grapes for the wines. Recipes perfected over the centuries to compliment the wines. Bruschetta made with the vineyard’s oil. Red wines, dessert wines and grappa all made from the same grapes grown in the same vineyard complete the experience.

An entire day could be planned around Poggio Antico. Visit the winery in the early afternoon followed by a tasting of this year’s production. A walk around the vineyards is the perfect way to stimulate the appetite before dinner at the Poggio Antico restaurant. The taxi ride back to the hotel should provide just enough time to digest the sumptuous meal before falling into a profound sleep for the night.

This is not a secret to the Italians so a bit of planning is appropriate. The company can be contacted by Tel/Fax 0577-849200 or email rist.poggio.antico@libero.it.

Tags: Italian Vacations Tuscany Montalcino Wine Tours Travel Italy

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Trattoria al Bosco Padova – Traditional Recipes in a Provincial Environment

Vinitaly is in Verona and you may want an interesting place after a day of wine tasting. Trattoria al Bosco is just about ½ hour away from the fair in the outskirts of Padova. There are many good places to eat in Italy. Family operated restaurants that have been around for generations but everything is relative. In the city of Rome there are maybe 10 places where I look forward to eating. That is not to say that they are not great restaurants or that the food and wine is not excellent, simply that on a comparative basis they do not stand out. The same is true in just about every city however over the years, either by local friends taking me to their favorite place or just by fate, I have found some truly unique places. Trattoria al Bosco is one of those places that happened by chance.

I was visiting a client in Treviso and he wanted to go to dinner after a long project. I suggested some place with local foods where we could relax. He had just the place in mind. Recently, he had been to a wedding reception and knew of this place just outside of the city of Padova. At this point you are expecting to read something about the marvelously balanced foods, the superb wine cellar and perhaps “knock your socks off, service.”

I was a bit surprised as we ventured off the autostrada into the countryside of Padova. We pulled up to a villa with immaculate grounds laid over the rolling hills. A beautiful garden of green grass with intermittent trees held a few tables. It could have been the villa of any of my relatives. I had an idea that the food would be good. In Italy the places that hold wedding receptions are booked as much as 2 years in advance because of their quality food and reasonable price. We entered the main dining area. The structure has recently been restructured adding a few contemporary features while maintaining the farmhouse charm.

Livio introduced me to the owner and suggested that he serve whatever he felt was good. This was an invitation to eat too much but I never shy away from challenge. Trattoria al Bosco is Italian comfort food without cooking. Ravioli with Squash and Radicchio, Bigoli, fire pit roasted pork, cheeses and Bresaola served with a local red wine arrived on the table and disappeared as if by magic. Trattoria al Bosco is not a fancy place; it is a clean, family operated restaurant. It serves traditional regional cooking in a country setting with great down to earth wines and savory food.

TRATTORIA AL BOSCO
Via M.te Venda, 46 - Boccon di Vò (Padova)
Tel. 049/9925066
Email: info@trattoriaalbosco.com

Tags: Italian Restaurants Veneto Padova Food and Wine Travel Italy

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Pierbacco – Restaurant Wine Bar – Experience the Balance of Food and Wine

In the Tuscan region, on the coast, is the town of Castiglione della Pescaia. Most likely this destination will not be on your vacation itinerary but you should think about this one a bit. Aside from the great views, marvelous beaches, fantastic sailing and sumptuous wines, the food is an experience in provincial Tuscan cooking. Tuscany has many marvelous restaurants and Agriturismo but Pierbacco in Castiglione della Pescaia has an interesting twist. Just like our wine and cheese place in Rome, Pierbacco is known for its selection of wines.

The cellar offers wines from the entire Italian peninsula. It is an opportunity to consume fresh fish, perfectly prepared, with just the right wine. Often our dinner is more about the wine than the food. Pierbacco has a tasting room where you can initiate your evening with appetizers and some little known wine, expertly chosen by the competent staff. If you are still hungry, move on to the dining area for Mazzancolle in Crosta or Filetto di Orata with cherry tomatoes and olives. This is definitely not the place to start your diet. Conclude the evening with a selection of desserts and pastries masterfully served with a wide selection of dessert wines.

Pierbacco is an experience in culinary passion. I am all about the food and wine and this is what Pierbacco means. If you have a question about how something is prepared or what that particular flavor is, do not be afraid to ask. Perhaps you just want some pointers on Italian cooking the chefs will be talk and perhaps let you see how they prepare things. The atmosphere is relaxed but refined. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable. These characteristics make Pierbacco a marvelous stop during your stay in Tuscany.

Ok, enough about the traditional eat here, visit there. Pierbacco is an example of what makes Italy so interesting for a growing number of Americans. It is the vision and passion of family. Pierbacco is an attempt to make really good food and pair it with a fantastic selection of wine. It is the future for their children. It is family relayed over generations. There are thousands of marvelous places to eat in Italy, thousands expressing the passion of life. Pierbacco is the not famous. It is not the place where thousands will come from around the world. Pierbacco is a great place to experience the culture and history of Castiglione della Pescaia.

Corso della Libertà 24
58043 Castiglione della Pescaia (GR)

Phone: +39 0564 933522

mail: info@pierbacco.it

Tags: Italian Restaurants Castiglione Tuscany Food and Wine Travel Italy

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Vacationing on the Sicilian Volcano – Agriturismo Il Ciliegio del Etna

Vacationing in Sicily is a bit different than the rest of Italy. The breathtaking landscapes, the rich cultural traditions, and the balance in life are part of the experience as the rest of Italy however the distances between locations are greater. Knowing your way around the island and the places to stay and eat is also extremely important as one can easily find themselves in an expensive structure that does not meet their expectations. This is more true in the large cities of Catania and Palermo. Over the years, with the help of Sicilian friends, I have found some interesting solutions that are both reasonably priced and where the service is excellent.

Outside of Catania, at 300 meters above sea level, on the slopes of the volcano Etna there is a great little agriturismo. When staying in the city is not a requirement this is a great destination. The internal restaurant prepares traditional recipes and is worth a visit even if you do not lodge in the rooms. The structure was initially built in the 1800s and recently restructured maintaining the original characteristics. Located in San Giovanni Montebello in the city of Giarre the Agriturismo Il Ciliegio del Etna is only 20 minutes from Taormina and overlooks the Sicilian coast of Catania.

The complex is in the middle of a citrus and fruit orchard. Needless to say the fruit, when in season, is heavenly. The restaurant is not sophisticated. It is like coming to dinner at your Italian cousin’s home. Homemade pasta, Mafalda bread, free-range meats, fruit preserves, Sicilian Pecorino, vegetables under oil, and the Olive Oil from the orchards of Etna. The Olive Oil is unique. The minerals and ash from the volcano, still active, enriches the land and gives the Olives from this area their flavor.

The agriturismo offers numerous activities. You can engage in cycling around the mountain, tennis, ping-pong and horseback riding. They also organize day trips for snorkeling in the Sicilian waters, deep sea fishing, hiking toward the mouth of the volcano, and boat tours through the caves along the coast.

This is a vacation into Sicilian life. The rooms are not luxurious, but they do have air conditioning. This is an opportunity to experience the rugged but beautiful island of Sicily through the flavors of the foods, the smell of the land, and the taste of the wine.

Agriturismo Il Ciliegio del Etna
Via F. Meda, 88/90
San Giovanni Montebello - Giarre (CT) - SICILY


Tags: Catania Food and Wine Agriturismo Italian Restaurants Italian Hotels Italian Vacations Sicily Travel Italy

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Madonnina del Pescatore – One of the best Seafood Restaurants in Italy

Madonnina del Pescatore, in Senigallia, is one of the best Seafood Restaurants in Italy. This is a bold claim for a country where mediocre seafood would be considered top shelf here in the US. Italy does seafood well and I do not mean to disrespect the other regions where the seafood is fantastic. Il Canzuncella in Naples, the Charleston in Palermo, all of the restaurants on the lido of Cagliari, the local mom and pop places from Taranto to Trieste and back to Catania all do seafood in the most wonderful ways. It should also be noted that I generally do not like seafood. It must be fresh, eyes still blinking fresh, for me to be able to enjoy a good plate of seafood.

Yet Madonnina del Pescatore in Senigallia is a tribute to the Marche and their capability to take simple, fresh, local ingredients and turn them into a banquet fit for a King. Madonnina del Pescatore may find its fairytale existence to the husband and wife owner-operator team. Moreno Cedroni, the chef, is a self-taught master chef. Initially he was in charge of the dining room. In the early 90s his partner left the business and in 1993 Moreno realized that he needed to shake things up. He left the dining room and dedicated his energies to the kitchen.

Instead of preparing the usual run of the mill plates he took a course to become a sommelier and went to the early morning fish auctions at the local port. Still not satisfied he went back to culinary school to learn the techniques of traditional preparation. At this point he expressed his passion for balance of food and wine. Gone are Fritti Misti and a new combination of flavors and elements appear. His attention to fresh ingredients and their nutritional value are such that before dinner is served a complete description of what, how and why is brought to the table.

Perhaps it is not just the harmony of delicate flavors that makes this experience unique. The dining area is contemporary and in its simplicity allows the natural beauty of the location to dominate. Located right on the beach, the view is incredibly peaceful. Just beyond the dining room windows the sea flows into the horizon while behind the restaurant the green, rolling hills of Senigallia.

Senigallia is one of my safe ports. That means when I am traveling and in the area I will stay in Senigallia, even drive out of the way to stay there. Once the summer rush is over it is a beautiful place with friendly people and marvelous food. The Madonnina del Pescatore is one of the reasons I love Senigallia so much.

Madonnina del Pescatore
Lungomare Italia, 11
Marzocca di Senigallia (An)
Tel. 071.698267
E-mail: info@madonninadelpescatore.it

Tags:Senigallia Food and Wine Italian Vacations Italian Seafood Restaurants Marche Travel Italy

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Orient Express Milan – Dinner in a Tram

A night out on the town takes on a whole new meaning starting October 16, 2006. ATM, the municipal public transportation company of Milan, initiates service of a full service restaurant in a TRAM (that is a cable car). Trams have long been a tradition in Milan and were, until recently, the primary system of public transportation. Hundreds of people squished into a car made for half the number. People hanging off the doors that cannot close during rush hour are all images vivid in my mind. At the same time I remember watching peacefully the beautiful buildings, parks and the lights of the city when traveling outside the morning and evening rush.


Restaurants have long been part of train service and large boat excursions both on the lakes and the sea but this is the first time I have seen a restaurant in a functioning tram. Every evening at 8:00 pm the tram leaves Piazza Castello and embarks on a 2 ½ hour long journey through the night of Milan. Menus based on both meat and fish are available and it is a full course dinner including wine. This puts a whole new perspective on drinking and driving!

This is an exclusive engagement and seating must be reserved in advance. The cost is 50 Euro per person. Thinking just about dinner, this could be considered a bit expensive, but combine the entertainment of an exclusive view of Milan by Night and this elegant evening is a pretty good deal. Think of this as a trip on the Orient Express through the inner city of Milan. Certainly for those with a tight schedule an evening on the tram can be a unique experience.

The menu is complete from appetizer to dessert:
- Appetizer
- First course
- Second course and side dish
- Dessert
- Cafe' with chocolates
- Bottled water and a bottle of wine for every two people.

If the house wine does not meet your taste you can order a wine from the wine list at extra cost.

Once you have confirmed reservations you should be at the departure point at least 10 minutes early to confirm menu’ choice and to choose your table.

Reservations can be made by calling the ATM toll free number: 800.80.81.81.

Tags: Italy Restaurants Milan Lombardia Unique Dining Experiences Travel Italy

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Americans are Stupid!

Do you feel stupid? I do not feel stupid, sure I still have a great deal to learn and I am completely ignorant of many subjects, but I really do not think I am stupid. Americans are stupid, at least this is what corporate America has been saying as of late. So while Italian Wine Guy is lost in the Italian Twilight Zone, many of us are looking for ways to win the fight of obesity, take care of our health and find some balance in our life. Italy has become the most visited country in the world because its culture reflects many of the attributes we, and other advanced nations, are looking to re-introduce into our life. As US culture moves more toward a healthy and natural lifestyle, corporate America has jumped on the bandwagon. No, they have not changed the quality of their products or services, simply they are presenting their wares as if they were Italian. Wendy’s has a Frescata sandwich, Jack in the Box has its Ciabatta Burger, Stouffer’s has its Chicken Carbonara and now Applebee’s has hired TV chef and personality Mr. Tyler Florence to promote its wholesome Italian food.

Tyler Florence of Real Kitchen on Food Network:

"I love serving up this classic penne pasta tossed in my own traditional spicy Italian tomato cream sauce mixed with ripe tomatoes and green peas. I top it off with hearty, sweet Italian sausage..."

"My own traditional", this is the perfect example of false advertising; either it is "your own" or it is traditional, since Italy does not have a "traditional" food, instead each region and town will have antique recipes based on local vegetation and game. I understand why Mr. Florence would not talk about his traditional New Jersey style tomato sauce. I could explain why a spicy tomato cream sauce would not be mixed with ripe tomatoes and green peas but I doubt the company would have any idea of what I am talking about.

"This juicy whole chicken breast is crusted with a tasty mix of crisp, flaky Italian seasonings. I serve it beneath a fresh baby arugula salad mixed with grape tomatoes, rich mozzarella..."

Ok, I am really confused now. Italian seasoning? Does that mean something? Out of the 10,000 herbs and spices which one are we talking about? Is he trying to say Sicilian, Neapolitan, Foggiano, Romano, Bolognese, Friulano, Piemontese or Lombarda? Or perhaps he is talking about American-Italian that has little to do with Italy. And please explain to me how a seasoning can be flaky, unless he is saying the seasoning is so old that it has gone bad?

To reinforce that this is a healthy choice, the advertisement shows Mr. Florence shopping at a local vegetable market, carefully choosing the freshest of ingredients. Unfortunately the chefs of Applebee’s, and any other chain restaurant for that matter, have never seen a fresh fruit and vegetable market, at least not while on the clock. The business model of a franchise requires the local establishment to buy its ingredients from the company’s distribution centers. The distribution center buys from some huge auction then treats and stores the fruit or vegetables. In other words these products are not, by definition, neither fresh nor ripe.

Health concerns are serious. Americans are trying to make informed and appropriate choices yet as long as this type of irresponsible action is allowed, we are fighting a losing battle. I am not saying to not eat at Applebee’s, Wendy’s or Jack in the Box or not to buy the myriad of “Italian” industrially prepared foods on the market today just to be aware that these companies think you are stupid and that your health is less important than their profits!

To Mr. Florence, you state that your real kitchen is dedicated to “Culinary Honesty,” I guess we know how much your honor actually means to you.

Download CDC Obesity data in PDF file

Tags: Gourmet Foods Tyler Florence Food Network Obesity False Advertising Stupidity Fast Food Applebees Italian Recipes Food and Wine Travel Italy

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Hotel Cavalieri – Restaurant La Pergola

I usually would not consider writing about a hotel like the Hilton. There is nothing I can say that is not already obvious. The Hilton is a good hotel with clean rooms and run according to US procedures. Even the location on Monte Mario, one of the seven hills overlooking Rome, and the beautiful view is not enough to differentiate this hotel from any other. So how could a Hilton hotel ever make it into the places to visit in Rome?

I have worked in telecommunications since 1988. First in Internet then in the new digital telephony better known today as Voice over IP. The incumbent in Italy is Telecom Italia. They control everything having to do with Telecommunications so I had numerous interactions with various levels of its management. In order to be able to discuss my concerns or contracts I would invite these individuals to dinner so we could exchange ideas freely without the confines and the interruptions of the office.


Rome has many very good restaurants at all levels but for my primary contact in Rome there was only one place for dinner. The Hotel Cavalieri, more specifically the restaurant La Pergola in the Hotel Cavalieri. I attempted to talk him out of this, Camponeschi, Al Bric, Porto di Ripetta surely were better choices. He stuck to his guns and since he was my guest, and I had never been to the restaurant, I gave in.

This is another example that an open mind is the key to finding the best opportunities. La Pergola is a marvelous restaurant with a breathtaking view of Rome and the surrounding hills. The cuisine is basic Italian with a contemporary flair. In the words of executive chef Heinz Beck,

My intention is not so much that of satisfying your appetite as of transmitting emotions through harmoniously balanced aromas, flavors and colors - sensory stimuli which are intertwined and blended in suffused and refined surroundings.

I am always searching for new combinations of flavors and textures, new
solutions and surprises which respect both the local cuisine and Italy's
cultural heritage. My own enthusiasm and passion are enriched when I am
exploring innovative cooking techniques or using the avante-garde equipment
which permits me to maintain the intrinsic values of many foods.

There is a Gourmet Menu’ which takes you through numerous dishes of increasing intensity. The choice is extremely well balanced as it moves from Lobster Medallions to Lamb or Red Mullet. The alla carte menu’ tends a bit towards French cuisine with various sauces and consomme’. Needless to say I allow the chef to do whatever he prefers, as does my good friend from Telecom Italia.

The wine cellar is impressive. They indicate that they stock almost 50,000 bottles of wine. The waiters are professional and will be able to suggest an appropriate wine to accompany your dining choice.

Since my first encounter with La Pergola, I have been a regular visitor. The Hotel is a Hilton, so either you will love it or think it is tremendously overpriced, but the restaurant is worth a visit, preferably with someone special perhaps for a night out on the town. Reservations are a must.

Hotel Hilton
Restaurant La Pergola
Via A. Cadlolo, 101
00136 Roma Italia
phone: +39 06 35092152
email: LaPergolaReservations.Rome@hiltonint.com

Tags: Hilton Rome Lazio Italian Restaurants Travel Italy

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Hotel Inghilterra – Exclusive Hotel – Restaurant of the Stars

Hotel d’Inghilterra is elegance personified. Since 1830 its halls and salons have greeted Romans, businessmen, and dignitaries from across the world. Artistic workmanship, statues and murals envelop the guest, creating an opulent yet inviting environment. This is one of the most famous and exclusive hotels in Rome but the hotel is not the part I like the most about Hotel d’Inghilterra. It is the restaurant, il Café Romano, that keeps me coming back.


It may be the chef, Rodolfo Chieroni, and his cosmopolitan menu’. This means that he prepares traditional dishes from various parts of the world according to the original methods. It may be the beautiful combination of modern and classic architecture. Most likely it is the terrace dining.

The summer temperatures have subsided just a bit. The cooler sea breeze brings a hint of salt to the air. Raffaella’s silk outfit glides playfully in the breeze as she walks to the table. Before taking her seat she gazes over the rooftops of Rome. The cupola of San Pietro, visible in the distance, stands out like Monte Bianco in the Italian Alps. Our waiter asks if we would like a glass of champagne before dinner. Prosecco, we respond in unison, our preference for Italian wines is quickly noted.

This is our evening, no investors, no business meetings just us. A plate of appetizers arrives, catching us off guard as we chat about nothing important. Her eyes express fascination as we take in the surrounding view, the building, its architecture and the works of art visible in every direction. The wine list, more appropriately a book, is sitting on a side table. Her curiosity makes her impatient and she picks up the leather bound archive and begins scanning the pages. Although we have not talked about dinner our choice will most likely be one of the hearty traditional Roman dishes, perfect for a complex and structured red wine.

Angelo, our waiter, almost startles us as he brings the menu’ to discuss dinner. Although there are numerous other people filling most of the tables, the layout is such that with a little distraction the ambiance is that of a small terrace suspended over Rome with the city lights as candles and the stars as an elaborately decorated, domed ceiling. Perhaps it is annoying but the menu’ is of little use. A brief discussion about our preferences and Angelo is off.

Shortly, a bottle of Guado al Tasso is breathing on the serving table. Patience is a virtue, but not one that we have mastered when it comes to wine. Even our Master Sommelier friends have learned to accept that wine in a decanter within reaching distance will not remain intact. Bacco’s nectar is soon sliding across our lips. Raffaella dips her finger in the glass and smoothes a drop of wine on the nap of her neck and moves closer so breathe in this unique perfume.

Angelo returns with a cart, scans our table and fixates on the glasses. A quick movement of his hand and another waiter appears, doling out a more abundant portion of this marvelous wine. Angelo places our dishes immediately in front of us still covered with a silver dome. Dining at a great restaurant is always an exciting experience as we allow the chef’s inspiration to determine our meal. The dome removed, our dinner revealed, the smells of Cacio e Pepe fill the air. An antique Roman dish, Spaghetti with pecorino cheese and fresh pepper sauce, of simple ingredients, its preparation requires the knowledge of the Roman Matriarchs.

Our evening progressed, dessert and grappa, continued long after our Guado al Tasso had evaporated but the view remained and our time together tete a tete is now part of our experiences worth savoring a lifetime.

Hotel Inghilterra is an excellent hotel with a traditional and warm atmosphere. The rooms are comfortable and relaxing and the personnel are professional and helpful. Whether or not you can stay in the hotel a visit to the restaurant is a memorable experience.

Hotel d'Inghilterra
Via Bocca di Leone, 14 - 00187 Rome ( Italy)
Phone +39 06 699811 - Telefax +39 06 69922243
E-Mail reservation.hir@royaldemeure.com

Tags: Inghilterra Rome Lazio Hotels Travel Italy

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Ristorante Crotto del Lupo – Regional cuisine from Como

Ristorante Crotto del Lupo in Como offers an interesting look into the traditional foods of Como and Valtellina. The Valtellina region is north of Milan and begins in Como and flows through Bergamo up to the Alto Adige on the border of Austria. The current owners of the restaurant carry on a tradition initiated in 1870 and have incorporated a mix of local cuisine from Como and the hearty dishes of the Alpine valleys. Located in the hills surrounds Como, the restaurant is immersed in the green trees creating a relaxing and enjoyable environment.

While the dining atmosphere is casual, the food is exquisite. Appetizers include Carpaccio, Bresaola, Speck, slices wild game cooked to perfection, Sciatt Valtellinese and little fried balls of whole grain wheat filled with hot gooey cheese oozing out with every bite. First courses include Pizzocheri, a traditional pasta dish, Risotto with Porcini mushrooms, and Penne with Speck.

These dishes are all fantastic but this trip into culinary world of Lombardia is just beginning. Entrées are savory dishes from the valleys. Grilled meats, Veal roast with Porcini mushrooms, the Tagliata with Rucola prepared with the best meats from free range cattle and the specialty Involtini Valtellinesi are all available, but during hunting season the restaurant serves various wild game dishes, masterfully prepared. Various lake fish plates are also prepared but I would stay on the meat menu’.

Desserts are well prepared but I would not sacrifice the first and second plates for dessert unless Chestnuts are your thing. The chef prepares a chestnut mousse that is a must try particularly during the fall when fresh chestnuts are in season.

I would suggest catching a taxi to visit Crotto del Lupo. The wine cellar is well supplied with Italian wines from local DOC favorites to more famous Piemonte and Tuscan selections. A casual evening, with friends or that special someone, supported by delicately prepared foods and complimented by great wines. This is a little known jewel in the hills of Como. Although reservations are probably not necessary I would call ahead just to be safe.

Crotto del Lupo Ristorante
Via Pisani Dossi , 17 - 22100 COMO

Telefono Tel: 031 570881
Email: Info@crottodellupo.it

Tags: Como Italian Restaurants Food and Wine Italian Vacations Lombardia Travel Italy

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Antica Trattoria della Pila – Mala Milanese in Como

Our cooking buddies will be taking a trip to Como this Fall and are looking for some different and interesting places that are not on the beaten path. I looked into my backpack of places to eat, made a few phone calls and talked with some friends. One restaurant that kept coming up is the Antica Trattoria della Pila in Como. This restaurant is run by a couple of true Brianzoli offering a great traditional recipes of Lombardia and an atmosphere that is difficult to find.

The 60s in Italy were contentious. They were years of great change and social strife. Economic growth was at unprecedented levels resulting in an ever-expanding wealth differential between the very rich and the rest of the population. As the tensions grew various grass-root popular movements sprouted in the big cities. This movement was very similar to the 60s revolution at the Universities here in the US. Much like Rap music represents a certain inner-city culture the music of the Mala represented the social struggles in Milan and the hinterland.

Great musicians like Ornella Vannoni, Alda Merini, and Nanni Svampa immortalized, with passionate performances, the local bars and osterie, the fights between the youth and the police, and the political ideology of the Mala.

The Antica Trattoria della Pila takes you back to those years. Live performers croon in Milanese dialect while dinner is typical Milanese and Brianzolo cuisine. Fresh onions in sweet and sour sauce, onion soup in loaf bread, and casseoula, served in a rustic atmosphere of simple tables and epic items scattered around the hall. The cheese tray is impressive, in line with Milanese tradition, and the wine cellar is well supplied with medium quality wines at a reasonable price.

This is a step back into the 60s in Milan, with local comfort foods, great entertainment and an all round fantastic evening. Make reservations you will most likely need them.

Antica Trattoria Della Pila
Via Pila 6 - 22100 Como (CO)
tel. 031302343

Tags: Como Italian Restaurants Lombardia Italian Culture Travel Italy

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