Friday, November 02, 2007

Where of Where have theTruffles Gone? Italian Truffle Harvest Report Fall 2007

Fall is such a great season. The harvests come in and the bounty of the earth can fully be appreciated. New wines begin to appear and the cool nights are perfect for the heavier meals and more complex wines. In the predawn quiet I am alone with my keyboard as note flashes on my screen and fills my soul with melancholy. The Truffles have abandoned us. Perhaps it is global warming [this would explain why Al Gore is so intense] or just the nature of things but Truffles just are not to be found.

Italy's prized white truffles are so few and far between this autumn that prices have soared and some restaurants are being forced to take them off the menu.

White truffles, which are rarer and more pungent than black ones, are pricey at the best of times. But unusually dry weather this year has made it hard for the humidity-loving tubers to grow, making them even more exclusive.

At the Truffle fair in Alba prices are as high as 7,500 Euro kg. That translates to about $ 5,500 a pound. Just sniffing their perfume this year will cost you $50.

Experts say that the long hot summer coupled with steady winds in truffle-growing regions has meant the tubers have not had the underground conditions in which they develop best.

Nestling in the roots of about 50 trees - mostly oaks but also hazels, poplars, mulberries and willows - truffles are rooted out by specially trained dogs.

The average weight of the few white truffles harvested so far this year is only 150 grams, while in other years 300 grams has not been unusual.

Despite the high prices this year, the white truffle's appeal appears undiminished. As proof of this, truffle farmers note that for the first time ever there will be a delegation of Chinese buyers at Florence's international truffle auction on December 1.

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Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Easy Italian Recipes – Stuffed Bell Peppers

This dish is really easy. It is a bit longer to prepare than other dishes in this series because the peppers need to cook for about 45 minutes. The trick is to get them into the oven and then go do other things. For a Northern Italian cook it is unusually easy because the filling would be left-over risotto mixed with some breadcrumbs. This recipe is based on not having Risotto Yellow Bell Peppers and Gorgonzola left over (or any other risotto for that matter).

Ingredients (for each Bell Pepper):

1 tbsp breadcrumbs (large grain)
2 tbsp rice
½ tsp Parmesan Cheese
1 oz Gorgonzola or Blue Cheese
salt and pepper
1 Bell Pepper (Red or Yellow) for each person
1 egg (minimum) for every 4 Bell Peppers

Preparation:

Boil the rice (normal preparation for sticky rice).

While the rice is cooking, cut the stems out of the peppers. The Peppers may then be cut either horizontally or vertically. If the cut is horizontal (so the pepper would stand up) cut just under the crown. Slice the crowns into paper thin slices about 1 inch long and set aside. Remove the seeds and the white “briny” rib. Rinse both inside and out.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

When the rice is cooked, move the rice to a large bowl. Crumble the Gorgonzola. Add the Gorgonzola, Parmesan, Breadcrumbs, sliced peppers and eggs. With your hands, mix together thoroughly. Salt and pepper to taste.

Brush a bit of Olive Oil on a baking pan. Fill the shells with the rice mixture. Place the stuffed peppers on the baking pan and cook for 45 minutes. The skin should turn slightly dark.

Serve hot with a fresh red table wine.

Desserts from Omaha Steaks:




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Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Risotto Yellow Bell Peppers and Gorgonzola

In the lands of Risotto just about anything can turn into a delightful, creamy dish. I have not found recipes for Risotto with Yellow Bell Peppers and Gorgonzola. It was something I put together since a creamy Gorgonzola was in the fridge and Yellow and Red Bell Peppers were on sale. This is not to say that there are not recipes available, simply that I have never seen one. Much of our cooking happens like this. Traditional methods or recipes fall prey to “what do we have in the fridge” or “think about these flavors together.” I must confess that Stuffed Peppers is also on the brain and while most recipes will call for boiled rice instead of risotto I prefer to make a risotto with the ingredients and eliminate the egg holding the filling together.

Ingredients for 4 people

400 g (just under 1 lb) Arborio Rice
1 small Onion diced
½ stick (50 g) Butter
¼ lb (100 g) Gorgonzola
2 tbsp (50 g) Grated Parmesan Cheese
1 glass white wine
¼ Yellow Bell Pepper thinly sliced
1 qt. (1 liter) Beef Broth

Preparation

Melt 3 tbsp butter in a heavy pot over medium high heat. Add the diced onion to the pot and sweat the onions until transparent.

Add the rice. Stir the rice into the butter and onions coating the rice for about 1 minute. Pour the wine into the rice and stir quickly for 1 minute. Add 1 ladle of broth. When the broth begins to boil check the timer. It will now take 22 minutes to cook the rice. As the broth evaporates add another ladle of broth. Stir constantly the rice. Continue until the 10 minutes has passed.

Add the thinly sliced peppers and cook everything for an additional 10 minutes.

Add the Gorgonzola and cook for another 2 minutes stirring constantly. Turn off the heat. Stir in the remaining 1 tbsp of butter and the Parmesan cheese. Let rice sit for 1 minute (mantecare). Serve hot in individual plates.

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Cheese Quesadillas

Asparagus Rollup

Eggplant Parmigiana Encroute (Puff)

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Saturday, October 20, 2007

Easy Italian Recipes - Vitel Tonne’ Version 2

Some would think that Veal Tonne’ has French influences yet this is truly Italian. There is significant discussion regarding the regional origin. There are many who defend this recipe as Milanese, others sustain, with equal vigor that Vitel Tonne’ is Piemontese, more specifically from the Langhe. Interestingly there are two versions. The one described here is the one that I found in most restaurants. The other recipe is the one I have found most often in homes. To you the decision of where this recipe found life.

The Italian homemaker would make her own mayonnaise base. I have linked to the recipe to make mayonnaise however I have indicated the volume of finished mayonnaise in this recipe. Additionally the way the meat is cooked is different in the two recipes. This version uses a slow cooked veal. The veal sirloin (some use tenderloin) is placed in a baking pan with wine vinegar and herbs This is a fast recipe because the meat is usually prepared over the weekend and kept in the refrigerator until used. The sauce must be prepared the same day.

Ingredients:

For the Veal
1.5 lbs (600 g) Veal Sirloin
1 quart (1 l.) salted water
1 cup Vinegar
2 Onions
2 Cloves
Olive Oil
1 branch of Rosemary
4 leaves of Basil
6 Anchovies (remove bones and wash salt away)
1 cup White Wine
Salt

For the Sauce
2 cups Mayonnaise
¼ cup wine
8 oz Tuna (under oil)
1 tbsp Capers in vinegar (drained)

Preparation: Prepare the meat when you have more time. I like to do these preparation jobs over the weekend. Keep the cooked Veal (not sliced) in the refrigerator. Before using let the Veal come to room temperature.

For the Veal
Add the Olive Oil to a large, heavy pot. Cut the onions into quarters. Clean and chop into small pieces the Anchovies. Turn the heat to medium high. Add all of the ingredients except the Wine, Vinegar and Veal. Once the Oil is hot and the vegetables are beginning to sizzle add the Veal. Sear the meat on each side for about two minutes.

Remove the meat and place aside on a plate. Add the wine and deglaze the pot. Return the meat to the pot and add the vinegar. Reduce the heat to medium low cover (just a simmer) and let cook for 1 ½ hours. Allow to cool completely before cutting or refrigerating.

For the Sauce
Stir the wine into the Mayonnaise. Chop the Tuna into small shreds. Add the Capers. Stir in the Mayonnaise mixture very gently.

Presentation:

Cut the Veal into ¼ inch thick slices. On a serving platter lay the meat slices evenly and slightly overlapping. Completely cover with the sauce. Cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate until servings. This dish is served slightly cooler than room temperature.

Other Easy Quick Recipes



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Thursday, October 18, 2007

Easy Italian Recipes - Veal Tonne’ - Vitel Tonne’ Version 1

Some would think that Veal Tonne’ has French influences yet this is truly Italian. There is significant discussion regarding the regional origin. There are many who defend this recipe as Milanese, others sustain, with equal vigor, that Vitel Tonne’ is Piemontese, more specifically from the Langhe. I have even heard rumblings from the regions of Southern Italy about the paternity of this dish. Interestingly there are two versions. The one described here is the one that I found in most Milanese homes. The second recipe is the one I have found most often in restaurants. To you the decision of where this recipe found life.

The Italian homemaker would make her own Mayonnaise base. I have linked to the recipe to make mayonnaise however I have indicated the volume of finished mayonnaise in this recipe. Additionally the way the meat is cooked is different in the two recipes. This version uses boiled veal. The veal sirloin (some use tenderloin) is boiled with herbs and then the broth is strained and used for some risotto at a later date. This is a fast recipe because the meat is usually prepared over the weekend and kept in the refrigerator until used. The sauce must be prepared the same day.

Ingredients:

For the Veal
1.5 lbs (600 g) Veal Sirloin
1 quart (1 l.) salted water
1 Carrot
1 Stalk of Celery
1 Onion
1 Clove
¼ Lemon
1 cup White Wine
Salt

For the Sauce
2 cups Mayonnaise
¼ cup wine
8 oz Tuna (under oil)
2 Anchovies under salt (remove lisks and rinse away salt)
1 tbsp Capers in vinegar (drained)

Preparation: Prepare the meat when you have more time. I like to do these preparation jobs over the weekend. Keep the cooked Veal (not sliced) in the refrigerator. Before using let the Veal come to room temperature.

For the Veal

In a heavy pot place all of the ingredients and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low. Cover the pot and simmer for 1.5 hours. Once completed the time. Turn the heat off and let the meat cool in the broth. Do not remove until both the meat and the broth are at room temperature. Remove the meat and cut into ½ inch thick slices or refrigerate. Strain the broth. Pour the broth into a glass container and refrigerate for use later in the week.

For the Sauce

Stir the wine into the Mayonnaise. Chop the Tuna into small shreds. Add the Anchovies, and Capers. Stir in the Mayonnaise mixture very gently.

Presentation:

Cut the Veal into ¼ inch thick slices. On a serving platter lay the meat slices evenly and slightly overlapping. Completely cover with the sauce. Cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate until servings. This dish is served slightly cooler than room temperature.

Other Easy Quick Recipes



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Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Easy Italian Recipes - Roasted Chicken with Lemon

This recipe is fantastically simple and puts an interesting twist on just same old chicken. The original recipe requires that a whole lemon be inserted into the cavity instead of spreading fresh squeezed juice. This should not be done with today’s lemons. Most producers spray the lemons with a pesticide that remains in the peel and will be released into the chicken. I suggest roasted potatoes with the chicken. The potatoes can be baked with the chicken.

Ingredients:

1 whole chicken (about 2.5 lbs)
2 lemons (juiced)
¼ stick of butter
Salt and Pepper
Olive Oil

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Rinse the chicken and remove any items that may be in the cavity. Brush the chicken, inside and out, with the lemon juice. Cut the butter into small pieces and place the butter in the cavity. Salt and pepper the outside of the chicken and brush abundantly with Olive Oil.

Brush a baking pan with olive oil and place the chicken in the middle. Bake the chicken for 40 minutes. Let cool for about 10 minutes before serving.

Other Quick Dinners




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Monday, October 15, 2007

Easy Italian Recipes – Index of Time and Cost Effective Recipes for Today’s Busy Family

True Italian recipes are regional and local. You could see them as comfort foods. They include “poor ingredients”. They are made with ingredients that are available on the farm or grow in the wild in that area. Over the centuries these recipes were refined to make that poor ingredient something that is an explosion of flavor. The method by which the dish is prepared is as important as the quality of the ingredients. Italian recipes are generally simple. Flavors are always in balance and while today it may be difficult to find some of the ingredients generally they are very cost effective. I will put “Easy Italian Recipes” in the title followed by the primary ingredients in the recipe or the name of the dish.

As families are starting to feel the difficulties of inflation, I think Italian recipes can be a way for families to eat well and save money. This series of recipes are also very simple and can be prepared in about 45 minutes or the evening before. Italian recipes are generally wholesome. You should not be concerned about the fats used (butter or pork) and do not, at least in the beginning, play around with the process or ingredients. Most of these recipes have evolved over the centuries to give both immediate satisfaction and keep away the hunger for several hours if not overnight.

Always look for the freshest version of the ingredients and should they be out of season choose a frozen version instead of canned. With mushrooms, the dried version is usually the most cost effective and savory, unless you live in Oregon.

When making broth, we use bullion cubes from Knorr however should you boil fish, chicken or meats you can save the water. Divide it into smaller units and freeze it for several months.

Some tricks can also include freezing certain vegetables. Once frozen these vegetables will completely break down into pulp in the cooking process, which speeds things up. Some of these vegetables are celery, garlic, carrots, and onions. When cooking for my kids I would prepare the soffritto (onion, celery and carrots) in large quantities and freeze it. That cut down my time for risotto by about 5 minutes.

Most of these recipes are not found in books but will be part of just about every family’s recipe box.
Most will also be from Northern Italy however I have accumulated a few Southern Italian Recipes from friends over the years.

If you have something you would like to add or remembered a dish and do not know how to make it please drop me a line.


Appetizers - Antipasti




Pasta, Risotto and other first plates - Primi




Entrees (Meat, Fish, Fowl) – Secondi



Roasted Chicken with Lemon
Stuffed Bell Peppers
Veal Tonne' I
Veal Tonne' II

Side Dishes – Contorni




Desserts – Dolci




Fruit – Frutta











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Thursday, October 04, 2007

Nocino – Nectar born in the night of San Giovanni Battista

Little nut, this is the translation of the dark brown liquor that adorns the dessert tables in local restaurants around Modena. Italians can make after dinner liquors from just about anything. Grappa is aged with everything from rosemary to cinnamon. Lemons or lemon leaves are combined with pure alcohol to become limoncello, a favorite among Americans. Anice and Artichokes become digestives. Nocino is made from walnuts before they mature. Saint John the Baptist is celebrated on the 24th of June. This is the traditional nights where families in Emilia Romagna will gather the young walnuts to make Nocino.

The recipe is simple. Nocino is made of 1 liter of pure alcohol (the family recipe indicates that it must be of good quality), 900 grams of sugar, 1 kg of walnuts (33-35 nuts – again the recipes indicates that is must be an odd number of nuts and never sprayed or treated with chemicals). To verify the appropriate age of the nuts they should be cut in half with a knife. They should like the one in photograph.

Nocino is prepared by cutting the walnuts into four pieces. They are then placed, along with the sugar, in a large jar with a cap and let to sit in the sun for 1 or 2 days.

The alcohol and in some family recipes cinnamon or cloves are added to mixture in the jar. The jar is now moved to a semi shaded area (3 or 4 hours of sunlight a day) and let sit for 60 days. Once a week the mixture should be gently stirred.

At the end of the 60 day flavoring period the liquor should then be strained and enclosed in dark colored jars for at least 12 months. The Nocino should be stored in a cool dark place during the 12 month period. If you have an oak barrel, appropriated cured, the Nocino can be aged in the barrel.

Nocino is found here in the US. It is usually served with after dinner biscotti or coffee. A good Nocino will have a bit of a kick but will be relatively smooth. If anyone wants to attempt to make Nocino, perhaps a pecan version, I will be more than happy to talk with you.


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