Saturday, October 20, 2007

Easy Italian Recipes - Vitel Tonne’ Version 2

Some would think that Veal Tonne’ has French influences yet this is truly Italian. There is significant discussion regarding the regional origin. There are many who defend this recipe as Milanese, others sustain, with equal vigor that Vitel Tonne’ is Piemontese, more specifically from the Langhe. Interestingly there are two versions. The one described here is the one that I found in most restaurants. The other recipe is the one I have found most often in homes. To you the decision of where this recipe found life.

The Italian homemaker would make her own mayonnaise base. I have linked to the recipe to make mayonnaise however I have indicated the volume of finished mayonnaise in this recipe. Additionally the way the meat is cooked is different in the two recipes. This version uses a slow cooked veal. The veal sirloin (some use tenderloin) is placed in a baking pan with wine vinegar and herbs This is a fast recipe because the meat is usually prepared over the weekend and kept in the refrigerator until used. The sauce must be prepared the same day.

Ingredients:

For the Veal
1.5 lbs (600 g) Veal Sirloin
1 quart (1 l.) salted water
1 cup Vinegar
2 Onions
2 Cloves
Olive Oil
1 branch of Rosemary
4 leaves of Basil
6 Anchovies (remove bones and wash salt away)
1 cup White Wine
Salt

For the Sauce
2 cups Mayonnaise
¼ cup wine
8 oz Tuna (under oil)
1 tbsp Capers in vinegar (drained)

Preparation: Prepare the meat when you have more time. I like to do these preparation jobs over the weekend. Keep the cooked Veal (not sliced) in the refrigerator. Before using let the Veal come to room temperature.

For the Veal
Add the Olive Oil to a large, heavy pot. Cut the onions into quarters. Clean and chop into small pieces the Anchovies. Turn the heat to medium high. Add all of the ingredients except the Wine, Vinegar and Veal. Once the Oil is hot and the vegetables are beginning to sizzle add the Veal. Sear the meat on each side for about two minutes.

Remove the meat and place aside on a plate. Add the wine and deglaze the pot. Return the meat to the pot and add the vinegar. Reduce the heat to medium low cover (just a simmer) and let cook for 1 ½ hours. Allow to cool completely before cutting or refrigerating.

For the Sauce
Stir the wine into the Mayonnaise. Chop the Tuna into small shreds. Add the Capers. Stir in the Mayonnaise mixture very gently.

Presentation:

Cut the Veal into ¼ inch thick slices. On a serving platter lay the meat slices evenly and slightly overlapping. Completely cover with the sauce. Cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate until servings. This dish is served slightly cooler than room temperature.

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Thursday, October 18, 2007

Easy Italian Recipes - Veal Tonne’ - Vitel Tonne’ Version 1

Some would think that Veal Tonne’ has French influences yet this is truly Italian. There is significant discussion regarding the regional origin. There are many who defend this recipe as Milanese, others sustain, with equal vigor, that Vitel Tonne’ is Piemontese, more specifically from the Langhe. I have even heard rumblings from the regions of Southern Italy about the paternity of this dish. Interestingly there are two versions. The one described here is the one that I found in most Milanese homes. The second recipe is the one I have found most often in restaurants. To you the decision of where this recipe found life.

The Italian homemaker would make her own Mayonnaise base. I have linked to the recipe to make mayonnaise however I have indicated the volume of finished mayonnaise in this recipe. Additionally the way the meat is cooked is different in the two recipes. This version uses boiled veal. The veal sirloin (some use tenderloin) is boiled with herbs and then the broth is strained and used for some risotto at a later date. This is a fast recipe because the meat is usually prepared over the weekend and kept in the refrigerator until used. The sauce must be prepared the same day.

Ingredients:

For the Veal
1.5 lbs (600 g) Veal Sirloin
1 quart (1 l.) salted water
1 Carrot
1 Stalk of Celery
1 Onion
1 Clove
¼ Lemon
1 cup White Wine
Salt

For the Sauce
2 cups Mayonnaise
¼ cup wine
8 oz Tuna (under oil)
2 Anchovies under salt (remove lisks and rinse away salt)
1 tbsp Capers in vinegar (drained)

Preparation: Prepare the meat when you have more time. I like to do these preparation jobs over the weekend. Keep the cooked Veal (not sliced) in the refrigerator. Before using let the Veal come to room temperature.

For the Veal

In a heavy pot place all of the ingredients and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low. Cover the pot and simmer for 1.5 hours. Once completed the time. Turn the heat off and let the meat cool in the broth. Do not remove until both the meat and the broth are at room temperature. Remove the meat and cut into ½ inch thick slices or refrigerate. Strain the broth. Pour the broth into a glass container and refrigerate for use later in the week.

For the Sauce

Stir the wine into the Mayonnaise. Chop the Tuna into small shreds. Add the Anchovies, and Capers. Stir in the Mayonnaise mixture very gently.

Presentation:

Cut the Veal into ¼ inch thick slices. On a serving platter lay the meat slices evenly and slightly overlapping. Completely cover with the sauce. Cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate until servings. This dish is served slightly cooler than room temperature.

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Friday, February 09, 2007

Filetto al Gorgonzola – Filet with Gorgonzola

Simplicity and great, fresh ingredients are the elements to some of the best recipes. A beef or veal filet, seared on both sides in dark butter and a sauce made with Gorgonzola, chopped walnuts and gin. The sauce reduced just to the right consistency velvety smooth, rich in flavor and a perfect balance with the succulent filet. Food is an important part of our life. We discuss new recipes and old favorites after dinner. Comments about the wine, can it be consumed alone or does it need food. Was this wine perfect with the meal or would something else be more appropriate? The dinner table adorned with a meal of balanced flavors and wines that accentuate the tastes facilitates great conversation.

The Filet with Gorgonzola is a dish that has developed in recent years in the areas around Milan where both the Filet and Gorgonzola are local favorites. It is a simple but exclusive recipe because the Filet must be top shelf and cooked to perfection. It is the perfect dish for special occasions when you want to make your partner feel like they are the most important person in the world. This is the perfect for Valentine’s day, anniversaries or just to say, “you are the greatest!”

Great wines with Filet with Gorgonzola: Amarone, Barbaresco, Barolo or Nebbiolo based Piemonte wines. John the Baptist of Italian wines suggests La Scolca Pinot Noir from Lombardia.

Ingredients:

4 ¼ lbs Beef or Veal Filets
½ stick (50 g) unsalted Butter
3 tbsp Gin
½ cup (50 g) chopped Walnuts
1 cup (100 dl) Heavy Cream
¼ lbs (100 g) Gorgonzola (crumbled)
4 tbsp Port
Salt and Pepper to taste

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 150 degrees.

Use a large frying pan or skillet. It is imperative that the meat sit evenly on the surface. Add the butter and a few turns of fresh cracked pepper. If your grinder can change the grind use a slightly larger grind. Over Medium low heat sauté the butter until it turns nut brown.

Turn the heat to medium high. Place the filets in the skillet and sear on each side for 2 minutes (this will be rare), about 3 ½ minutes for Medium-rare.

Move the filets to a baking pan. Sprinkle the filets with gin, salt and pepper and flame. Cover with aluminum foil and place in the warm oven.

Reduce the heat under the skillet to medium low. Add the chopped Walnuts, the Heavy Cream and the crumbled Gorgonzola to the skillet. Stir together well.

While stirring add the port. Continue stirring until the sauce is reduced.

To serve, place the Filet directly on the plate. Dribble a bit of sauce on the meat and place a dollop of sauce on the side of plate.


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Wednesday, August 02, 2006

Messicani – Mexicans, stuffed with sausage, spiked with Sage, sautéed in butter

No we are not promoting cannibalism. I have attempted to find the origin of this dish used primarily in the hinterland of Milan. While I have found variations, such as “Messicani tuttosole”, I have not found just where this dish was born. Mexicans are a method of preparation instead of a single recipe. They are meat rolls stuffed with a different type of ground meat, bread and seasoning.

There must have been a culinary exchange during the periods of immigration between Milan and Mexico City. In Mexican cooking you will find “Milanese” which means meat, covered in breadcrumbs and fried in butter. No matter the origin the method offers some interesting and very savory dishes. Most often the Messicani will be made with Veal or Pork filets and Pancetta with Mortadella stuffing. Raffaella came up with this dish based on what we had in the refrigerator. The chicken breast can be substituted with Veal filets if you prefer.

This dish will take about 1 hour to prepare however, it is repetitive and most of the time is simmering the meat and allowing the rice to boil. Messicani is a perfect dish to prepare while chatting with friends in the kitchen and enjoying a glass of Prosecco or Pinot Grigio (you will need a good dry white for the Messicani). May I suggest that you flatten and cut to size the chicken breasts before you open the bottle of wine.

Ingredients:

4 boneless and skinless Chicken breasts
½ pound (200 gr.) Sausage (Kelbasa, Bratwurst or Beer Bratwurst)
¼ pound (100 gr.) stale bread
½ cup milk
1 egg
3 tbs grated Parmesan Cheese
Fresh ground Nutmeg
¼ cup (1 dl.) Dry white wine
15 leave of Sage
1 clove garlic
1 cup Chicken Broth
2 tbs. (25 gr.) butter
All-purpose Flour
Fresh ground pepper

For the Rice bed:

½ pound (220 gr.) Arborio white rice
¼ onion diced
½ cup white wine
Olive Oil
1 quart chicken broth

Preparation:

Stuffing:

Place the stale bread in the milk until the bread softens but does not crumble. Squeeze the bread removing the excess milk.

In a separate bowl, mix the Sausage, Bread-milk, Parmesan Cheese, Nutmeg, and 1 beaten egg. Work the filling together with your hands. The more you work the mixture the more uniform the consistency. Place in the refrigerator until ready for use.

Assembling the Messicani:

Flatten the meat with a meat tenderizer mallet or the bottom of a heavy glass. The motion should be pounding to the center and drawing the mallet toward the edge. Be careful not to tear the meat. The filets should be about ¼ inch thick. It may be helpful to place the meat underneath a piece of plastic wrap. The will let the mallet slide over the top of the meat reducing the risk of tearing.

Cut the filets in 3 x 2 inch squares.

Spread the sausage filling evenly over one side of the filet. Roll the filet into a log and fix on a wooden or metal skewer. Be sure to catch the closing lip of the filet as close to the edge as possible to keep the log closed tightly during cooking.

Place a leaf of sage on the skewer before adding another rolled log. Dip in flour on both sides.

Cooking the Messicani:

In a large skillet, melt the butter with 2 leave of sage over medium heat. Sear the Messicani for about 2 minutes on each side. Pour in the white wine and turn the Messicana every 3 minutes while the wine evaporates.

Once the wine is reduced, add ½ the chicken broth and the clove of garlic. Do not crush the garlic you will remove it later. Turn the heat down to low. The liquid should simmer at a very, very slow boil and cover.

Every 10 minutes turn the Messicani over. After 30 minutes add the remaining chicken broth. Start the rice at this time.

Cook for a total of 50 minutes from when the first broth was added. Before serving remove the Garlic

To cook the rice:

Heat the chicken broth to a slow boil.

Place the diced onions and 2-3 tablespoons of Olive Oil over medium heat. Sauté the onions until translucent in color.

Stir in the rice. Pour the wine and allow the wine to evaporate. Add the broth 1 cup at a time, stirring the rice every 3-4 minutes. Cook for 20 minutes.

Assembly and Presentation:

Spread about ¾ cup of cooked rice as a base on the plate. Place the Messicani on the bed of rice. Drizzle some sauce from the pan over the top of the Messicani and Rice.

Serve hot!

Wines to compliment this dish:

Whites: Terre Alte, Arancio Grillo, Ceretto Blange, Greco di Tufo

Reds: Chianti Classico, Barbera, Barbaresco Pora, Taurasi

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