Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Lupicaia IGT 1999 – Pleasure in a bottle

Lupicaia, an IGT Super Tuscan by Rossi di Medelana, is gluttonous pleasure. It costs about $150 retail and $250 in a restaurant. This positions Lupicaia out of the pocket book of many wine lovers but the price quality relationship is much better than most of those $500 a bottle wines. It has been a while since I have purchased an expensive wine. The few great wines left in my cellar are destined for future occasions. A stroke of luck brought 6 bottles of Lupicaia IGT 1999 entered my home.

I have known Lupicaia for many years. She has been a warm and cuddly friend, elegant and encompassing. While her company can be appreciated in the te’ ta te’, a menage a trois is most certainly the best environment to truly appreciate one of mother nature’s greatest gifts. Just any meal would not be appropriate. She deserves a savory and hearty meal. I prepared a bed of potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters along with baby carrots and two peeled onions. A large rib eye, seared on both sides was nestled discreetly and the top of the Dutch oven went into the oven for 45 minutes. One quick turn of the meat and a shuffle of the vegetables the third party to our festivities went back into the oven for another 45 minutes.

I opened the feisty Tuscan. She is young and needs to breathe. I admired the deep garnet color, fighting the temptation to consume her prematurely. I could smell the black cherries filling the air as I swirled the bottle. Genetics do not lie, a 90-10 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot mix that could have been born in Bordeaux.

Finally our table was set. The anticipation created a nervous tension was high. A moment to admire the beautiful cut of meat surrounded by carrots, potatoes and a whole onion. The large mouth glass strategically positioned at the top right corner of the plate. Lupicaia slithered into the glass. Ruby red flashes filter through the stream of nectar and the fingernails are burnt orange.

A soft hint of tannins caressed my lips. A wave of velvet encompassed my mouth. The distinctive taste of Cabernet Sauvignon revealed itself as notes of cedar filled my gums. Finally a clean finish with hints of toasted coffee. I shared my attentions between the savory pot roast and Lupicaia. After each sip I was fully prepared to taste another bite of food. Culinary ecstasy consumed my senses. She was young, already mature, but surely in 10 years Lupicaia will take on additional personality and class. Lupicaia IGT 1999 will accompany me through the years, always present at special occasions.




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Tuesday, November 06, 2007

Bottle of Ornellia 2005 sells at auction for $33,600 – Friends of Florence

I can imagine that many are checking their wine cellars right now to see just how many bottles of Ornellaia are on the shelves. Before you break you neck jumping down the stairs to open the doors of newfound riches, patience. Ornellaia is a wonderful wine. It is one of my favourites. It is not, for any year of production, a $33,600 wine. The sale took place at a Christie’s Auction in New York. The winners were a couple from Seattle and the proceeds go to the “Friend’s of Florence” to restore and maintain the entrance doors of the Battistero of Florence.

There are various non-profit organizations in the US dedicated to helping maintain the human treasures of Florence, Venice and Rome. From the Friends of Florence Website:

Friends of Florence is a non-profit 501(C)3 international foundation based in the United States. It was created to allow the citizens of the world to participate in the preservation and enhancement of this glorious city and the Tuscany region.

Through carefully selected projects, various works of art, architecture and literature will be restored, safeguarded or finally opened to the public. A committee of internationally respected experts and historians will guide the foundation in the selection of projects that will benefit from the foundation's work.

The great re-awakening of the human spirit from the darkness of the Middle Ages occurred in Florence. In the early 15th century, the study of antiquity - of the glory that was Greece and the grandeur that was Rome - became a Florentine passion, and with it carne a new respect for learning and a new-found creativity. The fruits of the great Quattrocento were boundless in Florence, making it the center of Western civilization for arts, architecture, philosophy sciences and political idealism. This small city became the emblem of humanism and gave the world such geniuses as Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Brunelleschi, Galileo, Dante, Giotto and countless others who created works and ideals which continue to inspire the world. As we enter the third millennium, it is ever more important that the legacy of Florence and the Tuscany region be preserved, enhanced where possible, and protected. Many of the unique treasures found in and around Florence are in danger of being ruined from neglect or sporadic preservation. The city itself is a work of art, rich in beautiful palaces, churches, museums, secret corners, and splendid gardens. All must be carefully protected so that Florence and Tuscany will remain a symbol of humanism and man's creativity and genius for centuries to come.


Current Projects include:

Sculptural Group Above the Door of the Baptistry
Ghiberti’s “Door’s of Paradise”
Twelve Caesars of the Medici Collection
Tribune in Uffizi Gallery

You can receive additional information on their projects, how to get involved and/or what is coming in the future directly from the group.

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Wednesday, October 03, 2007

Le Volte 2005 – Tenuta dell’Ornellaia

Le Volte 2005 Le Volte - Italian Red Wine. Le Volte is a blend. Every year the percentages of the grapes can change. The primary variable is the Cabernet Sauvignon that will vary from 15-30%. The percentage of Merlot then makes up the remaining percentage. Le Volte was first produced in 1991. The objective of this wine is a quick to market table wine that is drinkable as soon as it hits the shelves and will age over a few years relatively well.

Le Volte 2005 is a pretty good solution for everyday consumption. It is not complex but still has sufficient structure to balance savory red sauce and meat dishes. This wine is an Italian version of a Bordeaux mix table wine. Bordeaux lovers will find this wine surprisingly familiar. While Le Volte 2005 is fruity I would not call it a fruit bomb. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia has successfully avoided that overpowering fruitiness often associated with young Bordeaux table wines.

I would not load up on cases of this wine but a few bottles in the cellar could prove valuable for savory dishes when you are not sure what to open. I would also open this wine several hours early. Pour a glass and set the wine aside with the cork in the bottle. This will mellow the fruitiness a bit. The glass of wine poured can be used cooking dinner or just tasted to get you into the mood.

Grapes: Sangiovese 50%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%.
Color: Intense Ruby Red
Bouquet: Mature red fruits
Taste: The Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese result in medium body with a relatively good structure. The Merlot softens the finish and covers the palate.
Alcohol: 13.5%
Serving Temperature: 18 c.

Serving notes: This is a good dinner wine, not exceptional, but good. I would serve this wine with red sauces, roasts and grilled red meat.



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Saturday, September 22, 2007

Tuscany seen from the inside

It is not often that I pimp another site. The exceptions are sites that offer something truly unique. The Italian Wine Guy offers a view of wine, culture and the US in a way that can be useful in finding balance in life. Recently I found, actually he found me, an expat in Tuscany. Discover Soriano views daily life in the Tuscan town of Soriano. He includes great information about how to live the Tuscan experience.

I believe he organizes specialty vacations like culinary tours and wine tours. I like the site because it has great information and detail on the area. While View Italy talks more generally about Italy I believe the best way to vacation is to go into one area and stay there for the entire time. Learn everything you can about the food, the wine, the local products, and the people. This will mean that you may have some down time but after all, this is a vacation. You should relax and rejuvenate.

Check out this Tuscan Information Center and let me know what you think.

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Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Ornellaia 2004 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri

In 1981 Marchese Antinori purchased numerous small vineyards in and around Bolgheri. The Italian wine industry was in turmoil. The area of the Super Tuscans was having a terrible time and the small farmers were looking for a way out. Antinori, one of the larger Italian winemakers took advantage of the moment and bought the best vineyards of the area. He was a savvy businessman. Instead of incorporating the vineyards into his existing structure he kept the personnel and the previous owners in the purchased properties he allowed them to keep making their traditional wines with the resources of the larger company. Some of the great success stories are Tenuta dell’Ornellaia and Tenuta Guado al Tasso.

Recently many of these properties have been sold. Robert Mondavi purchased Tenuta dell’Ornellaia in 1997. In 2002 Frescobaldi purchased half of the company and in 2005 acquired the remaining 50%. While the ownership has changed the personnel making the wine has remained the same. It is true that each owner influenced, to certain extent, the final taste of the wine however it has remained consistently a very good wine. Ornellaia is relatively expensive. Most often it will price over 150$.

Ornellaia 2004 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri is a marvelous blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon; 25% Merlot; 12% Cabernet Franc; 3% Petit Verdot. We just recently tasted this wine. It still needs at least 3 years before I would consider opening it. If you do drink this wine in 2007 or 2008 give it plenty of time to breath. The wine will balance and the flavors amalgamate as the longer it is open. The company’s representative told me that 2004 was a fantastic year. Unfortunately, my imagination and future vision is not that good thus I can say this is a good vintage. I would drink it, even at its young age but I cannot say that it will become one of the greats.

The bouquet is alluring, with a bold, svelte darkness of ripe cherry and blackcurrant, hints of mint and chocolate, and a savory, slightly more austere and dusty, smoky quality in the background.
The oak is very well integrated already, with some cedar and vanillin notes lying beneath the fruit. On the palate this is medium- to full-bodied and immensely rich and concentrated, yet there is an immediate sense of freshness too, with tight, supple tannins and freshening cherry acidity adding structure and bite to the wine. Ornellaia has always been one of our favorites. If past production is any indication of the future this will be a great wine and will age well in the cellar, refining and finding greatest balance for well over 15 years.

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Thursday, July 05, 2007

Luce della Vite 1999 – Frescobaldi-Mondavi

Luce della Vite is a relatively young blend. The first Luce della Vite Frescobaldi vintage was 1993. It was the first Merlot and Sangiovese mix produced in Montalcino. Interestingly Dallas was the place where I was introduced to Luce della Vite in 1998. One of my Roman partners was visiting. We had just moved to Dallas and our selection of wines was, let’s say, very limited. He wanted to prepare a Matriciana while Raffaella was seriously concentrated on Stracotto al Chianti. Both dishes have important personalities. None of the wines in house would have been appropriate. A quick trip to the local wine shop with our Roman guest and the problem could be solved.

Choosing a wine at a wine store may seem like a simple task however Texas favored French wines over Italian and the California wines would have been an unknown. We carefully inspected the Italian wines, and were leaning toward an Amarone when Fausto moved toward the end of the isle and pulled two bottles of wine from the rack. He movement was so decisive it caught my attention. At a distance I could see a golden sun on the label but did not know the wine.

“This is an excellent wine, you most likely have not had this but it is one of my favorites and we are selling out in the restaurant every time we get a shipment,” he explained.

Fausto chose a perfect wine for the dinner. Luce della Vite became one of our favorite wines both here in Dallas and while in Italy. Each year is a little different however it is always a marvelous choice to accompany red meats, wild game, stews and sauces with important flavors.

Last week Luce della Vite 1999 was the protagonist in a local wine tasting. Without a doubt the 1999 vintage is another winner, worthy of its predecessors. Unfortunately the bottle we tasted seemed a bit closed. I think it did not have sufficient time to breath before the tasting but the underlying complexity was all there. It is important to allow this wine to decant for at least one hour and two would be much better.

Luce della Vite is a blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Merlot. The 1999 harvest was favorable for all Tuscany wines. Luce della Vite benefits from the exceptional growing climate. Decanting the wine evidences an intense color of red rubies and the blackberries permeate the air. On the palate nuances of tobacco, leather, cinnamon and cloves transition smoothly from one taste to the other. The wine feels silky in the mouth with just enough acidity and tannins to cut the flavors of savory foods.

This is a great wine to have for special occasions. Among the high-end wines its price is very reasonable. It will age very well. I would think this is one of the wines that can grace your cellar for 15+ years before peaking. Do not open this wine if you are in a hurry. It needs to breath to balance the flavors and textures. Give yourself a couple of hours to truly appreciate this wine. If you intend to order Luce della Vite at your favorite restaurant, call ahead and ask them to decant it for you.

Grape: Sangiovese 50% - Merlot 50%.

Color: Intense Ruby Red.

Bouquet: Intense perfume of Mature Dark Fruits.

Flavor: Full flavored of Plums and Blackberries, transitioning to hints of Tobacco, Leather, Cinnamon, and Cloves.

Alcohol: 14.5%.

Serving Temperature: 16-18 c.

Glass: Balloon or wide rimmed red wine glass.

Aging: 15+ years.

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Monday, June 11, 2007

Tuscan Chianti Beef Stew – Stracotto al Chianti Toscano

Our cooking buddies have a communal cellar. Like most of us they have been accumulating wines over the past 10 years. Recently we realized that some of the vintages were beginning to get up there in years. This is a good thing for complex wines but many of these wines are great dinner wines that should not be aged. We had already lost a couple of bottles to Alzheimer’s disease. We decided to check the cellar list and found that there were many 10+ year bottles of Chianti.


A wine that has aged too long is not a pleasure to drink but we feel it is a sin to pour them out. The search began for traditional recipes with Chianti. A couple of emails later and Stracotto al Chianti became our recipe for the day. I had never had this dish but further research revealed that this recipe is widely used in Tuscany. As I scanned the ingredients I realized that by making this dish I risked the wrath of Raffaella. The ingredients will add a touch of sweet to the sauce; something she does not like. Fortunately she was not in the kitchen while I put this together. About an hour into the preparation she tasted the sauce. Her face clouded as she stated emphatically, “This is sweet!”

The interrogation began about the ingredients and the preparation. Her mood remained decidedly upset as I explained the ingredients and the process. The dreaded declaration arrived, “You know I do not like sweet sauces with meat.”

William Congreve wrote:

Heav'n has no Rage, like Love to Hatred turn'd,
Nor Hell a Fury, like a Woman scorn'd.


What great insight from the 1600s.

Do not despair, as the sauce progresses, the flavors balance. While the sauce does not take on a spicy flavor, it is not sweet. The sauce is marvelously delicate. It is the perfect accompaniment to the savory meat that melts in your mouth.

Ingredients:

2 lbs Beef Stew meat cut into 1” cubes
Flour (to coat meat)
1 bottle 750 ml Chianti
1 cups beef broth
1 stick (114 g) Butter
2 tbs. Olive Oil
1 finely chopped large Onion
1 medium finely chopped Carrot
2 tbs. Raisins
2 tbs. Finely chopped Almonds
10 peppercorns
2 tbs. Finely chopped Pine nuts (Pinoli)
2 tbs. chopped Italian Parsley
1 clove crushed Garlic
Salt to taste

Preparation:

In a heavy pot clarify the butter over high heat.

Place the flour on a plate. Cut the meat into 1 inch cubes and coat the cubes in flour. Set the cubes aside on a baking pan.

Add the onion and carrots. Sauté the carrots and onion for about 2 minutes. Add the olive oil to the pot.

Sear the meat cubes in the hot butter. Do not over fill the pot. Place only the meat cubes to fill the bottom of the pot. Stir them once or twice to sear all sides. Remove the seared cubes, place them on the baking pan and continue with other cubes until all the cubes have been seared.

Once all of the cubes have been seared and removed from the pot add about a cup of wine to deglaze the pot. Reduce the heat to medium-high. Add the remaining ingredients and another cup of wine. Reduce the sauce for about 4 minutes.

Add the meat back into the sauce and cover with the remaining wine and broth. Once the liquid begins to boil, reduce the heat to low (simmer only) and cover.

Cook for 2 ½ hours, stirring every 20 minutes.

Remove the cover, turn the heat to medium low and cook for the remaining 30 minutes to reduce the sauce.

Serve over white rice, Parmesan Risotto, Gnocchi or Fresh Pasta.

Chianti is the wine of choice. We opened a Querciavalle 1997. For those with this wine in their cellar, it is time to drink this wine.

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Thursday, May 31, 2007

The Islands of the Tuscan Coast – Isola d’Elba

The Island of Elba is the third largest Island of Italy. It is located about 10 km off the Tuscan shores in an area of 600 km of sea that makes up part of the National Park of the Arcipelago Toscano. Italian Wine Guy reminisced about times past, hiking in the Italian countryside, and living the Italian lifestyle away from the major tourist destinations. Isola d’Elba is one of those locations that foreign tourists will most likely never see. Italians love Island of Elba for its simpler environment, the beach and the sun.

The Island of Elba has been a favorite destination since before the Roman Empire. The crystal clear waters and florid forests make this island a patch of greenery in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea. It became one of my favorite spots during my sailing days. One of my favorite trips was the “traversata”. The traversata is a trip from Livorno to Sardegna. The traversata is a marvelously relaxing trip. The islands just of the Tuscan coast were a great first stop for lunch even though just an hour into the voyage.

I learned that the island produces several local young wines. Two whites, two reds and sweet wine are part of the local arsenal. I cannot think of any one great restaurant because everywhere we ate was fantastic. The foods seemed to explode with flavor and while I am not a big fan of young wines, the balance was perfect. There are numerous Agriturismo in just about every port and are great place to get away from it all for a week or so. The hotels, outside of the month of August, are reasonably priced and the service is excellent.

The island’s popularity is increasing. This has had a negative impact on the vineyards as many farmers have let their vines go dedicating their resources to the tourist. The vineyards are sculpted into the hills and can be very difficult to work. These vineyards are not accessible with modern machinery so if you have the opportunity to stay at an Agriturismo with a vineyard plan on spending a day or two working the vines. It will create an appreciation for the art of winemaking.

If you do not have a local contact a great Agriturismo is Montefabrello just outside Portoferraio. The primary residence was built in the early 1900s and recently restructured with most of the modern comforts. Each room has a small kitchen even though the rates are “all inclusive” and the family run Agriturismo offers some very good regional dishes. They have several vineyards and will serve the house wines with local plates. For those who want to try some golf there is a truly unique 9 hole course within a couple of miles. The views are spectacular.

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Monday, May 21, 2007

Carne Chianina The king of the Bovine for the king of Steaks - The Florentine

Gourmet foods, great wines and beautiful lands are not the only reason to visit Tuscany. For those of us in the Southwest there is an additional attraction, the king of the bovine world, the Chianina. The origins date back well into the Roman Empire over 2200 years ago. The noble and maestros Chianina paraded with the Roman Legion. Their powerful stature leading the carts added to the air of dominance of the Empire itself. The porcelain white mantel made this beast of the farmlands a favorite among both the Etruscans and Romans. Two thousand years of breeding have not eliminated the prehistoric characteristics. The largest on record of this animal weighed in well over 4,000 lbs and was eight feet high.

Still today many farmers use the Chianina bulls in the deep valleys of Tevere and Chianina to till the lands where mechanical means cannot operate. No hormones are allowed in these animals and the animals graze for 3 to 7 years on the free range before making it to the butcher’s shop. Local recipes proudly indicate that they use Chianina. It is known world wide for its lean meat and sweet flavor. Others may have tasted Chianina without knowing it. The famous Florentine Steak can only be made from the Chianina.

The Florentine, or Fiorentina, in the US known as the T-Bone in its original dimensions can only be cut from a large animal. The steak must be a minimum of 2 lbs while the thickness is less the two fingers (about 1 inch). It is in the festival of the Tears of San Lorenzo in Florence that we find the origins of the steak. During the festivities the Fiorentini would roast veal quarters over an open pit flame as part of the celebration.

The preparation of the Fiorentina is simple. No marinating, no poking with a fork or pounding, just use a spatula and lift from underneath. Just before cooking prepare the steak with a bit of salt and pepper on each side. Over a vivid heat source, hot but not flaming, a steak is placed on the grill. The steak is seared and cooks on that side until the upper surface starts to glaze. The Fiorentina is then flipped and allowed to cook until the desired doneness is achieved. Let the steak sit for about 3 minutes before serving. Do not turn it back over, do not overcook. This method will lock the natural juices in the meat, accentuating the flavor.

Some great wines to accompany the Fiorentina are:

- Borgonero – Borgo Scopeto 2001 – Super Tuscan
- Brunello di Montalcino - Coldisole 2000
- Brunello di Montalcino – Manachiara Silvo Nardi 1997 DOCG
- Chianti Classico – Castello di Monastero 2001
- Chianti Superiore – Castello di Monastero 2001
- Ghiaie della Furba - Capezzana 2000
- Guado al Tasso Antinori
- Camartina 2001 - Querciabella – Super Tuscan without the bite
- Chianti Classico 2003 - Querciabella - Super Chianti from an Artisan of Wine
- Lodola Nuova 2000 - Tenimenti Ruffino - Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
- Modus - Ruffino 2000 – Designer wine from Tuscany
- Romitorio Di Santedame 2000 – Tenimenti Ruffino
- Le Pergole Torte – Montevertine - One of the best unloved Tuscan wines

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Friday, May 11, 2007

Agriturismo Casa Caponetti – Wine, Olive Oil, Cooking School in Northern Lazio

With the dollar losing ground against the Euro many are thinking about postponing their vacations in Italy. This does not have to be the case. In the big cities of Milan, Rome, Florence and Venice the costs are significantly higher but choosing your destination with a bit of attention can result in a marvelous vacation at a very reasonable price. In southern Tuscany, just about 45 minutes north of Rome Agriturismo Casa Caponetti is a destination of full-immersion into provincial Italian culture. Casa Caponetti is in the land of some good wines but the best part about this Agriturismo is the combination of Olive Oil production and a cooking school. Yes, you can learn how to cook traditional dishes from the locals.

Casa Caponetti produces a wonderful Olive Oil with low acidity and an earthy flavor. As most producers they have a wide range of Virgin and Extra Virgin Oils. The top of the range is a cold press unfiltered Extra Virgin Oil. From its own 500 olive trees, Casa Caponetti produces organically a great Italian Olive Oils. The olives are picked by hand, early in November when the quality is at its best, and taken immediately to the mill. The mill is a traditional one, with an old millstone, where the oil is cold pressed. If you visit during the harvest you will have the opportunity to see how this oil is made.

Laura Caponetti Bezzi runs the cooking school. She has studied traditional Italian cooking. I am not kidding she has a degree in historical cuisine. Her culinary talents have been perfected over the years working in some of the most exclusive Italian restaurants including the Villa d’Este in Como. Her passion is regional cuisine and she will take you on a voyage through time, learning about the traditional elements and tricks of the Tuscan housewife. After a week with Laura you will not look at the farmer’s market in the same way.

The lodging is also a marvelous experience. The restructured provincial farmhouse has the commodities of modern life but the 2 ½ foot wide rock walls give you a feeling of another time. Each room looks out over the 400 acre yard, Olive Grove and vineyards. Horseback riding, hiking and other traditional Tuscan activities are available but a trip to this Agriturismo will most likely be spent in the kitchen, winery, garden, and dining room. This is not a destination for those looking for the shopping scene but is a great place to rejuvenate the body and soul and, of course, splurge in a marvelous culinary experience.

CASA CAPONETTI
Tenuta del Guado Antico
01017 Tuscania VT - Italia

Tel +39 0761 435792 - Fax +39 0761 444247


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Sunday, May 06, 2007

Poggio Antico – Not just a winery – Visit Montalcino

Vacationing in Montalcino. The great wines of Tuscany are not the only reason to visit this area. Many wineries not only make wine, but also produce Olive Oil and may have a small restaurant. I have found that while the wine may be really good the true attraction is one of the ancillary services they offer. Poggio Antico is one of these wineries. Located in Montalcino the restaurant is one of the best places to eat in the area. Considering this is in the heart of Tuscany that is saying something.

The Poggio Antico restaurant is owned by the winery but is run by the husband and wife team, Roberto e Patrizia Minnetti. The menu’ is constantly changing as the finest and freshest ingredients are employed to prepare traditional regional plates. The menu’ is also carefully choreographed to the elegant wines of the winery. Desserts are prepared in house and local cheeses are part of the attraction. The ambiance of the restaurant is that of a traditional Tuscan villa, elegant yet sober.

This restaurant is an opportunity to participate in a unique culinary experience, once part of even the simplest life but today rarely found. It is true balance at the dinner table. Foods prepared with local ingredients, Olive Oil for olives grown in the same ground as the grapes for the wines. Recipes perfected over the centuries to compliment the wines. Bruschetta made with the vineyard’s oil. Red wines, dessert wines and grappa all made from the same grapes grown in the same vineyard complete the experience.

An entire day could be planned around Poggio Antico. Visit the winery in the early afternoon followed by a tasting of this year’s production. A walk around the vineyards is the perfect way to stimulate the appetite before dinner at the Poggio Antico restaurant. The taxi ride back to the hotel should provide just enough time to digest the sumptuous meal before falling into a profound sleep for the night.

This is not a secret to the Italians so a bit of planning is appropriate. The company can be contacted by Tel/Fax 0577-849200 or email rist.poggio.antico@libero.it.

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Thursday, April 19, 2007

Vernaccia di San Gimignano San Quirico 2005

Spring has sprung and in the cool evenings we have begun cooking with friends traditional Italian recipes. Our group is divided into those who cook, those who bring the wine and those who eat. Last night Raffaella prepared Cozze Marinara, in English Linguine Mussel Marinara. Most Americans think that Marinara is a tomato based sauce however this is not my experience. Marinara means from the Sea. I prepared a Shrimp Cocktail while Raffaella scrubbed the Mussels. A Pinot Grigio made the preparation a lot more fun.

We had advised our Sommelier, the gentleman who maintains the wine cellar for our dinners, that white was the weapon of choice. Unfortunately I have been somewhat disappointed lately with the local selection of Italian wines, not finding the great selection that we would expect from the #1 exporter to the US. He pulled out a Vernaccia di San Gimignano San Quirico 2005. Vernaccia is a great wine with both Sea Fish and Shell Fish. It is flavorful yet delicate with just enough acidity to clean the mouth without dominating a delicate fish sauce like Marinara.

Gimignano, in the province of Siena, is known as the medieval Manhattan with its tall block like towers. It is not very well known outside of Italians but is a neat little vacation destination. Vernaccia is produced only in Gimignano thus the production is relatively limited. It may not be easy to find Vernaccia but it is worth the effort. An additional note is that Vernaccia di San Gimignano San Quirico 2005 is made with organic grapes (as defined under recent Italian legislation).

Grape: Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

Color: Intense Yellow tending toward green.

Bouquet: Intense and elegant bouquet of bitter almonds and ripe fruit.

Flavor: Mature peaches, almonds and exotic fruits. Simple structure but persistent flavor.

Alcohol: Minimum 12%.

Serving Temperature: 10-12 c.

Glass: White wine glass.

Other Producers worth checking out:

Vincenzo Cesani, Tel. 0577.955084
Guicciardini Strozzi-Fattoria Cusona, Tel. 0577.950028
La Rampa di Fugnano, Tel. 0577.941655
Montenidoli, Tel. 0577.941565
Pietraserena, Tel. 0577.940083

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