Millefoglie and other Pastry Delights in Rome

Temptation is on every corner of every street. Fruit tarts stare at you from the protection of their refrigerated case. Quiet voices penetrate the surrounding street noise, whispering “we are so good and you can’t have us!” A round cream covered cake from the back row, emboldened by her smaller colleagues, becomes impertinent “Don’t even think about it with that life preserver permanently affixed to your waist!” The prodding continues as the Sacher Torta decides to wield the final blow without mercy, “Chocolate with apricot jam smothered in a dark chocolate ganasce will surely satisfy your growing craze but can you afford a new pair of pants?”

How dare they challenge me? Such arrogance from a dessert designed to satisfy my sweet tooth and never ending chocolate craving. “I will have you,” becomes my immediate objective. No threat of losing the battle of the bulge will make me shrink away from such a worthy foe. I enter the store and quickly engage in taking control of those insignificant little treats.

Some of you can appreciate my battle. Some will think I am superficial to give such importance to food. I confess, I have a sweet tooth. I love chocolate, fruity tarts, soft cakes covered in flavored creams and creampuffs of all sorts. Italy has many shops who take the art of baking to an entirely new level. In Rome one of these is the Pasticceria Cavalletti. Pasticcera Cavalletti in Via Nemorense has been making pastries since 1951. They produce their sweets by hand with fresh ingredients. There is no doubt about their professional capability. One nibble lets you know they know their business.

Some places will entice you with great looking presentations then you are somehow disappointed as the balance and flavour do not meet your expectations. Do not get me wrong the presentation is important but the natural flavours must explode. A perfect dessert is texture and flavour. I think about it like snuggling under the comforter on a cold winters morning. The experience is enveloping.

If you are in Rome and want to taste those Italian desserts the way they should taste then the Pasticceria Cavaletti, via Nemorense 179/181 is a stop for you.

Tags: Italian Restaurants Lazio Rome Food and Wine Travel Italy

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Papal Dungeons open for Business – From the Inquisition to the Scaffolds

The chains clank in the dimly lit corridors descending into the bowels of Rome underneath Castle Sant’Angelo. Lightly armored guard guide the prisoners of the Papal state to their dank cells while they await interrogation. Enemies of the faith and enemies of the state meet the same fate, days and sometimes months of continuous torture until they confess their crimes. No haunted house can recreate the true horrors practices in the dungeons of the powerful.

The Vatican has recently completed the 10 year renovation of the dungeons of Castle Sant’Angelo and opened to the public. The tours begin July 13, 2007 and conclude before Ferragosto. Every night at 21:30 (9:30 pm) a two hours tour guides visitors into the dank, oil-lit spaces where thousands of political and common criminals were shut away in the days that the Vatican held temporal sway over Rome and much of central Italy.

Guides will recount the tales of famous inmates such as turbulent gold-working genius Benvenuti Cellini who spent months there in 1538 on charges of embezzling the papal tiara and tried a daring escape amid fears of the noose. Heroes of the Risorgimento, the movement that eventually reunited Italy and ended the papal state, were also enclosed in the jail above Emperor Hadrian's ancient tomb - as recounted in Giacomo Puccini's famous opera Tosca.

Among the other notorious guests was Cagliostro, a Freemason and alleged occultist sent to the dungeons by the Inquisition. Inmates who met their death on the scaffold included a Roman family, the Cencis, hanged in 1599 after a shocking affair of incest, murder and revenge. Their story - and in particular the apparent innocence of daughter Beatrice - inspired writers like Shelley, Dumas and Stendhal.

This is a great opportunity to get your Halloween fix about 5 months early. I visited the dungeons during the renovation. Once you take this tour you will have a new standard for what a haunted house should be. There are no fabric ghosts floating on strung wire or fake headless bodies flailing in the shadows but the walls whisper to your subconscious mind as you observe the torture chambers and holding cells. If in Rome this summer, take the time, perhaps after a light dinner, to appreciate centuries of power gone bad.

Tags: Italian Vacations Rome Castles Lazio Travel Italy

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Virtual Tour of the Eternal City

Vacationing in the city of Rome is about to become much easier. Just think about wandering into the Senate, the Forum, the Pantheon and the Coliseum as they were in 320 AD. While strolling via Giulia you will overhear a private conversation between the Senators or you may meet a street vendor selling sandals. The technicians have recreated 31 monuments and 7,000 buildings. Characters have been diligently researched and personalities created to interact with the audience.

The city and several private interests have teamed up to create a virtual tour of Rome during the Roman Empire. A theater and 3D glasses are the forum for this look into Rome as it was. This project is the end result of 10 years of study and covers 19 km of ancient Rome inside the Aurelia Wall. The show is called “Rewind Rome” and can be seen starting the 21 April in the restructured theater of via Capo d’Africa.

This is a great way to see Rome for the first time. Before tracking around the city this half hour virtual tour will give great insight into what you are seeing and how it originally looked. It is also a marvelous insight into the citizens of Rome and how they see the world they live in. The show is expected to attract 12 million visitors a year and is just the first of numerous initiatives by the city of Rome to increase tourism.

Tags: Italian Vacations Rome Lazio Travel Italy

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Valentino – Celebration to 45 years of design

I have heard this to be the most important fashion event of 2007. Gold plated invitations are already in the mail to the lucky participants of the two day, 5 event, celebration of Valentino’s 45 years in the fashion industry. Many are claiming Valentino the King of fashion and the exclusive event is destined to bring together modern nobility from the four corners of the earth. July 6th to July 8th will days of fashion shows, dinners, private meetings and a historical representation of the career of Valentino. The backdrop is the city of Rome.

The entire area around the Coliseum will be adorned with images of the stylist’s designs. The fortunate holders of the gold invitations will be ushered to the Museum Ara Pacis at 11 AM on the sixth for a press conference and tour. That evening at 7:30, the second invitation opens the doors for the grand opening of the presentation, Valentino’s 45 years of Style. The evening could not conclude without dinner. The fortunate few, holding the third invitation, whisk off for dinner at the Tempio di Venere by the Arch of Constantine.

The following day does not start until 5 PM. Valentino is presenting his 2008 Fall/Winter collection. The location says how important this collection is. The Show will take place athe Monumentale S. Spirito in Saxia. The events conclude with a Grand Gala Dinner at the Galleria Borghese.

No doubt this is a once in a lifetime event. I believe my personal invitation must have been sent to the wrong address so if someone receives it for me please forward it here in Dallas.

Tags: Women's Fashion Italian Designers Womens Spring Summer Valentino href="http://technorati.com/tag/Fashion" rel="tag">Fashion Travel Italy

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Italian Holiday Traditions – The Origins of Valentine's Day

Valentine's Day is one of my favorite festive occasions. A romantic soul finds escape, on this day, from an otherwise cynical world. In many ways San Valentino is like Christmas. Perhaps the preconceptions of what is acceptable on Valentine’s Day make us, even if only for one day, think about love and passion. Work is less important and we somehow find time to dedicate our most precious gift to those we love. A gift certificate is not an acceptable thought for Valentine’s Day. The very nature of the holiday requires that we think about the person we love. It is great.

I am always amazed and intrigued at the information I find while I search for the origins of the festivities we celebrate. Each time I become more convinced that we need more balance in our lives and a greater understanding of whom we are. San Valentino is an antique ritual. Originally it the ritual lasted an entire year. The Lupercalia, celebration of fertility, was dedicated to the God Lupercus. The men and women who believed in Lupercus would write their names on a piece of paper. The names would then be placed into a jar and mixed well. A child would then extract the name of a man and a woman. These would then live together “in intimacy” for the entire year. The following year the ritual would be repeated. The first recorded festivities date back to 400 BC.

Today San Valentino takes its name from Saint Valentine of Terni, a town close to Rome. In 273 AD the Catholic Church was becoming more powerful and was influencing the cultural habits of the Roman citizens. Obviously the Lupercalia, a swinger’s party lasting an entire year, was not in line with the religious teachings of the church. The Bishop of Terni, San Valentino, went to the Emperor Claudio II to convince the all-powerful Roman leader to abandon his pagan beliefs and convert to Christianity. The Emperor instead encouraged San Valentino to renounce his Christian beliefs. San Valentino refused. He was imprisoned, skinned alive and decapitated by order of the Emperor on February 14, 273 AD at the ripe old age of 98.

To tie this all together, it is said that while in the Emperor’s dungeons he fell in love with the blind daughter of one of the guards. On the day of his death she received the miracle of sight because of her intense love and adoration. San Valentino had written a note declaring his eternal love and signing “your Valentino”.

Well, we have traded a year of “intimacy” for a day of cards, letters, chocolates and roses. I am ok with that and I love Valentine’s Day. For a full month of San Valentino try visiting Terni in the month of February.

Tags: Holiday Traditions Rome Lazio Winter Vacation Valentine's Day Travel Italy

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Hotel Cavalieri – Restaurant La Pergola

I usually would not consider writing about a hotel like the Hilton. There is nothing I can say that is not already obvious. The Hilton is a good hotel with clean rooms and run according to US procedures. Even the location on Monte Mario, one of the seven hills overlooking Rome, and the beautiful view is not enough to differentiate this hotel from any other. So how could a Hilton hotel ever make it into the places to visit in Rome?

I have worked in telecommunications since 1988. First in Internet then in the new digital telephony better known today as Voice over IP. The incumbent in Italy is Telecom Italia. They control everything having to do with Telecommunications so I had numerous interactions with various levels of its management. In order to be able to discuss my concerns or contracts I would invite these individuals to dinner so we could exchange ideas freely without the confines and the interruptions of the office.


Rome has many very good restaurants at all levels but for my primary contact in Rome there was only one place for dinner. The Hotel Cavalieri, more specifically the restaurant La Pergola in the Hotel Cavalieri. I attempted to talk him out of this, Camponeschi, Al Bric, Porto di Ripetta surely were better choices. He stuck to his guns and since he was my guest, and I had never been to the restaurant, I gave in.

This is another example that an open mind is the key to finding the best opportunities. La Pergola is a marvelous restaurant with a breathtaking view of Rome and the surrounding hills. The cuisine is basic Italian with a contemporary flair. In the words of executive chef Heinz Beck,

My intention is not so much that of satisfying your appetite as of transmitting emotions through harmoniously balanced aromas, flavors and colors - sensory stimuli which are intertwined and blended in suffused and refined surroundings.

I am always searching for new combinations of flavors and textures, new
solutions and surprises which respect both the local cuisine and Italy's
cultural heritage. My own enthusiasm and passion are enriched when I am
exploring innovative cooking techniques or using the avante-garde equipment
which permits me to maintain the intrinsic values of many foods.

There is a Gourmet Menu’ which takes you through numerous dishes of increasing intensity. The choice is extremely well balanced as it moves from Lobster Medallions to Lamb or Red Mullet. The alla carte menu’ tends a bit towards French cuisine with various sauces and consomme’. Needless to say I allow the chef to do whatever he prefers, as does my good friend from Telecom Italia.

The wine cellar is impressive. They indicate that they stock almost 50,000 bottles of wine. The waiters are professional and will be able to suggest an appropriate wine to accompany your dining choice.

Since my first encounter with La Pergola, I have been a regular visitor. The Hotel is a Hilton, so either you will love it or think it is tremendously overpriced, but the restaurant is worth a visit, preferably with someone special perhaps for a night out on the town. Reservations are a must.

Hotel Hilton
Restaurant La Pergola
Via A. Cadlolo, 101
00136 Roma Italia
phone: +39 06 35092152
email: LaPergolaReservations.Rome@hiltonint.com

Tags: Hilton Rome Lazio Italian Restaurants Travel Italy

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Hotel Inghilterra – Exclusive Hotel – Restaurant of the Stars

Hotel d’Inghilterra is elegance personified. Since 1830 its halls and salons have greeted Romans, businessmen, and dignitaries from across the world. Artistic workmanship, statues and murals envelop the guest, creating an opulent yet inviting environment. This is one of the most famous and exclusive hotels in Rome but the hotel is not the part I like the most about Hotel d’Inghilterra. It is the restaurant, il Café Romano, that keeps me coming back.


It may be the chef, Rodolfo Chieroni, and his cosmopolitan menu’. This means that he prepares traditional dishes from various parts of the world according to the original methods. It may be the beautiful combination of modern and classic architecture. Most likely it is the terrace dining.

The summer temperatures have subsided just a bit. The cooler sea breeze brings a hint of salt to the air. Raffaella’s silk outfit glides playfully in the breeze as she walks to the table. Before taking her seat she gazes over the rooftops of Rome. The cupola of San Pietro, visible in the distance, stands out like Monte Bianco in the Italian Alps. Our waiter asks if we would like a glass of champagne before dinner. Prosecco, we respond in unison, our preference for Italian wines is quickly noted.

This is our evening, no investors, no business meetings just us. A plate of appetizers arrives, catching us off guard as we chat about nothing important. Her eyes express fascination as we take in the surrounding view, the building, its architecture and the works of art visible in every direction. The wine list, more appropriately a book, is sitting on a side table. Her curiosity makes her impatient and she picks up the leather bound archive and begins scanning the pages. Although we have not talked about dinner our choice will most likely be one of the hearty traditional Roman dishes, perfect for a complex and structured red wine.

Angelo, our waiter, almost startles us as he brings the menu’ to discuss dinner. Although there are numerous other people filling most of the tables, the layout is such that with a little distraction the ambiance is that of a small terrace suspended over Rome with the city lights as candles and the stars as an elaborately decorated, domed ceiling. Perhaps it is annoying but the menu’ is of little use. A brief discussion about our preferences and Angelo is off.

Shortly, a bottle of Guado al Tasso is breathing on the serving table. Patience is a virtue, but not one that we have mastered when it comes to wine. Even our Master Sommelier friends have learned to accept that wine in a decanter within reaching distance will not remain intact. Bacco’s nectar is soon sliding across our lips. Raffaella dips her finger in the glass and smoothes a drop of wine on the nap of her neck and moves closer so breathe in this unique perfume.

Angelo returns with a cart, scans our table and fixates on the glasses. A quick movement of his hand and another waiter appears, doling out a more abundant portion of this marvelous wine. Angelo places our dishes immediately in front of us still covered with a silver dome. Dining at a great restaurant is always an exciting experience as we allow the chef’s inspiration to determine our meal. The dome removed, our dinner revealed, the smells of Cacio e Pepe fill the air. An antique Roman dish, Spaghetti with pecorino cheese and fresh pepper sauce, of simple ingredients, its preparation requires the knowledge of the Roman Matriarchs.

Our evening progressed, dessert and grappa, continued long after our Guado al Tasso had evaporated but the view remained and our time together tete a tete is now part of our experiences worth savoring a lifetime.

Hotel Inghilterra is an excellent hotel with a traditional and warm atmosphere. The rooms are comfortable and relaxing and the personnel are professional and helpful. Whether or not you can stay in the hotel a visit to the restaurant is a memorable experience.

Hotel d'Inghilterra
Via Bocca di Leone, 14 - 00187 Rome ( Italy)
Phone +39 06 699811 - Telefax +39 06 69922243
E-Mail reservation.hir@royaldemeure.com

Tags: Inghilterra Rome Lazio Hotels Travel Italy

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ArtDeco – Cool little hotel in Rome

The Art Deco in Rome, close to the primary train station, Stazione Termini, is a marvelous little hotel not very well known. It is one of my secret hideaways when traveling to Rome. I stayed at this hotel until we found our place in piazza Farnese. Originally it was a classic contemporary hotel with a few theme rooms. I have always been picky about my hotels and required a king size bed, not always easy to find. The Art Deco had a Francesina, which is a sleigh bed just larger than a queen.


The hotel has a small restaurant with about 10 tables that serves really good Roman comfort food and a bar-breakfast area great for reading the newspaper while sipping coffee. Breakfast is extremely important when traveling and staff does not have any problem getting me my carafe of coffee, hot milk and warm bread.

The rooms are not big but not too small either and are clean. The old elevator is kind of a novelty but I usually take the large marble staircase.

Right across the street is a neat little trattoria worth a visit and the inside restaurant, although small provides a full compliment of antipasti, pasta, meat and fish dinners. The chef is also quite innovative. During my last stay he prepared a lemon Capelli d’Angelo, Angel hair pasta, which was exquisite.

Cuisine is mostly regional but the Chef Paolo Marigliano brings with him some Neapolitan influences. The most delightful recipes are of course fish based with excellent first courses as for example: tagliolini con zucchine e gamberetti (long pasta with zucchine and shrimp), risotto ai moscardini (risotto with little cuttlefish) and many others.

Recently the hotel has become part of the Best Western Chain but is still run as a family operated hotel. This is a great place, not on widely known with personalized service and a very comfortable atmosphere.

Hotel ArtDeco
Via Palestro 19 - 00185 Roma (RM), Italy
Telephone: 06 4457588 Fax: 06 4441483
E mail: artdeco@uni.net

Tags: Hotel ArtDeco Rome Best Western Lazio Hotels Travel Italy

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St. Regis Grand Hotel Rome

Rome has some great hotels. One of them is the St. Regis located near piazza Repubblica. A great central location, it is in walking distance from the tourist, business and government destinations. This is an opulent 1800s building with heavy molding, granite columns, cotton silk wall coverings, gold inlays, beautiful epic paintings, and highly professional staff.

The reception is a horizontally elongated hall waiting area that opens into two corridors moving around the exterior of a center ballroom with a dining area and bar. Whether you are meeting heads of state or your friends from around the corner the St. Regis says you have arrived.

The rooms and sweets surround in a velvety and lush environment. The bathrooms are a work of art in their own right, completely finished in granite and white Carrara marble, huge wall mirrors, Jacuzzi tubs and rain drop showers, one could easily forget the reason of visiting Rome and spend the day relaxing in a hot tub with bubbles gently massaging the entire body. King size beds are the standard for most of the rooms I have stayed in. Complete with Internet, satellite TV and other business services the St. Regis is the perfect place to get some work done before going out in the evening.

I have only eaten once at the restaurant with the Minister of Internal Affairs of Ivory Coast. The food was well prepared, the wines selection excellent and the staff both professional and helpful. The restaurant has a wide variety of dishes including Nouvelle Cuisine but I would stay with the fish or the typical Roman dishes. The cook can, on special order, prepare just about anything you may desire with a little notice.

The bar, instead, is a place I have come to know well. The St. Regis is my hotel of choice for most business visitors. While waiting to go to dinner, or to finish up some business at the end of a long day I have had the opportunity to thoroughly experiment their selection of drinks. It is true that Johnny Walker Blue is my poison of choice however, an occasional Ketel One Vodka Martini or the before dinner Prosecco could slip in.

The Hotel offers a Limousine service to the airport or for other occasions as needed and the reception staff can assist in the choice of both restaurants and nightclub entertainment. The price is very similar to New York however the hotel has recently become part of the Starwood hotels. I am a member of this program and the extra perks really mean something when staying at this hotel. To sum it up: This is a perfect business trip hotel with all of the bells and whistles for a tremendously luxurious experience.

St. Regis Grand Hotel, Rome
Via Vittorio E. Orlando, 3 · Rome 00185 · Italy
Phone: (39)(06) 47091


Tags: Hotel St. Regis Rome Lazio Hotels Travel Italy

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Fun in Rome – Castle San Angelo Summer Fest

Rome is pulling out all the stops again this year organizing the fourth annual summer festival. Castle San Angelo in the city center opens its doors every night turning this once refuge of the Pope into an omni-theatre of nightlife activities.

Castle San Angelo has some of the most breathtaking views of Rome and on every level courtyards, terraces and rooms are the backdrop of family oriented events including circus acts, mimes and fire-eaters. Every night through the 15th of August the city has scheduled a non-stop flow of concerts, plays and shows.

The castle has numerous restaurants, bars and gelaterias offering an opportunity to experience true Roman life in this scenic setting. The last act of the opera Tosca will also be performed on the roof terrace with a full 360 degree view of the rooftops of Rome.

An exhibition of Baroque art currently being held in the castle and featuring works by Bernini, Borromini and Pietro da Cortona will remain open to nighttime visitors, as will another important show devoted to Roman jewelry. This includes rare antique items such as a bracelet from the third century B.C. depicting the Emperor Gordius .

This is a great opportunity for those in the city those in the city to experience a wide range of cultural and gastronomic activities in one place and in a very short period of time.

Tags: Lotto Castles Italian Museums Rome Lazio Art and Culture Renaissance Travel Italy

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Bucatini alla Matriciana – Paternity Challenged

Bucatini alla Matriciana, long tubular pasta smothered in a tomato, chili pepper, and bacon sauce. If you have been to Rome you have had them. This pasta dish is a stalwart for the purist of Roman cuisine. They are not to be confused with Bucatini all’Amatriciana or Bucatini made according to the traditions of the people from Amatrice, located about ½ hour from Rome.

Heated discussions continue today regarding the origins of this simple but marvelously flavorful dish. While the focus of the dispute may not interest the basic difference between the two sauces is important. The Roman version, the Matriciana, is made with tomato while the Amatricina version does not have tomato. This is important because the primary ingredient, aged ham hocks or pancetta, can be salty. The tomato in the Roman version adds structure and balance. This does not mean that the Amatriciana is not great just that it is simpler in structure and a bit more spicy.

It should also be noted that some restaurants add a bit of cream to the recipe however this is more for the tourists than for the traditionalists. Other variations include crushed peperoncino, small chili peppers, sprinkled over the pasta. Anyway you prepare Bucatini alla Matriciana, it is quick and satisfying, a fantastic summer dish.

Ingredients

1 lb (450 gr.) Bucatini or other tubular pasta, such as penne, rigatoni, or zitti
1/3 lb. (150 gr.) Guanciale, Pancetta or thick sliced Bacon cut into small pieces
4 oz. (100 gr.) Tomato sauce or ripe Roma or Cherry tomatoes
½ cup Olive Oil
crushed peperoncino – these are small dried chilly peppers
salt
pepper
1/8 lb. (50 gr.) grated Pecorino

Preparation:

Place the oil in skillet with the Guanciale, Pancetta or bacon and cook over medium heat for a couple of minutes. Add the crushed peperoncino to the oil. Stir for about 1 minute. Add the tomato. Salt and pepper to taste, lower the heat to medium low and cook until the tomatoes have broken down and the sauce is smooth. This will take about 10 minutes.

In abundant salted water cook the pasta. Usually this will be about 10-11 minutes depending on the type of pasta. The box will indicate the correct cooking time.

Drain the pasta and pour it into the skillet. Stir together to completely saturate the pasta. Add the Pecorino cheese and serve immediately.

This dish will take about 20-25 minutes from start to finish. A red wine such as Barbera will or Monsordo will be a perfect compliment.

Tags: Matriciana Pasta Lazio Summer Recipes Italian Recipes Food and Wine Travel Italy

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Spaghetti alla Carbonara – A hot meal, fast and easy

Spaghetti alla Carbonara is fast and easy Italian recipe used widely across the peninsula however it is a primary staple in the regions of Lazio and Umbria. The origins of this savory dish are doubtful. Some believe the origins date back to the times of the Roman Empire, while others tie its creation to the Carbonari, a secret organization of Umbria, who would have made this pasta dish with ingredients readily available in their hideouts. The most probable is that Carbonara was created following WWII during the American occupation of Italy. Bacon and Eggs were available on the black market and when combined with spaghetti became a nutritious and satisfying meal. This version is further supported by the lack of any literary mention of Carbonara until 1944.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara is appropriate anytime and as a first plate with just about any meat dish. It is a perfect midnight snack after an evening out with friends or as a quick hot lunch for the kids. Both white, such as Pinot Grigio or Greco di Tufo, and light red wines can accompany the Carbonara.

Ingredients for 4 people:

1 lb (400 gr.) of Spaghetti (penne rigate or rigatoni can also be used)
¼ lb. (125 gr.) of Pancetta, Bacon or Ham Hocks diced in small cubes
3 eggs
4 tablespoons of grated Parmesan Cheese
4 tablespoons of grated Pecorino Romano
1 tablespoon of heavy cream
1 tablespoon Olive Oil
salt
fresh ground pepper

Preparation:

Place the Olive Oil and pancetta (or bacon) in a skillet and cook over medium heat

Cook the pasta, Spaghetti or Rigatoni, in boiling hot, salted water.

In a separate bowl whisk the eggs, salt, pepper, heavy cream, Parmesan and Pecorino. The mixture should be uniform in texture.

When the pasta is cooked, drain, and return the drained pasta to the hot pot where the pasta was cooked. Add the cooked pancetta and the egg mixture, stir and serve immediately in individual plates. Add ground pepper on the pasta to taste.

Tags: Carbonara Pasta Lazio Summer Recipes Italian Recipes Food and Wine Travel Italy

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Villa Borghese – An oasis in Rome

Rome can be overwhelming. There is so much to see and so much to do that the choice of how to spend your time can be a daunting and time-consuming task. There are numerous guided tours available but I have always preferred to find things on my own. In the five years we lived in the center of Rome it is highly unlikely that we ever scratched the surface of Rome’s vast culture.

As you walk in the center of Rome you will undoubtedly pass in front of Villa Borghese. An unusually long stretch of contiguous greenery and several palatial edifices adorn the route but in Rome, with Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo as neighbors, Villa Borghese is not something that stands out as a rare and unique treasure.

In realty villa Borghese is not a villa at all, instead it was a vineyard in the 1500s. In 1605 the cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paolo V, began transforming these vineyards into the most elaborate and extensive gardens of Ancient Rome. The original lot, known as the Gardens of Lucullo, was frequented by the ruling class of Rome until the fall of the Republic. In the 19th century the Gardens were transformed into English Gardens and in 1901 the State purchased the entire park that spans from the Spanish Steps to Piazza del Popolo. In 1903 Villa Borghese was opened to the public and still today it is a refreshing refuge in Roman life.

Villa Borghese is not just breathtaking gardens, it is also home to 12 buildings, with 16th century architecture and home to invaluable works of art. Raffaello, Tiziano, Ghirlandaio, Lotto and Rubens all have their works housed there. Villa Borghese is also home to 6 Museums, 5 fountains from the Roman Empire and furniture from 7 different eras. Truly this is a concentration of humanity's greatest accomplishments.

For those of us who lived in Rome, Villa Borghese is more. It a place of peace and tranquility in a city of 10 million people, a destination of couples relaxing in the afternoon sun, a refuge from the demands of daily life where one can stop, think, contemplate and rejuvenate. An oasis in the Eternal City!

Tags:Raffaello Tiziano Villa Borghese Italian Museums Rome Lazio Art and Culture Renaissance Travel Italy

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Raffaello in Rome – Villa Borghese hosts Raffaello through 27 August

Beauty is unfair, sneaky and not measurable. Sure there are some things that are generally accepted as beautiful. Take top models, most will agree that they are gorgeous, I think they are generally too skinny. Just think about cuddling, instead of having something soft laying against you, this or that bone sticks you in the ribs. Then again beauty is not easily measured, sometimes you look at a building, you can appreciate the artisan workmanship but until you sit down in the parlor in front of a beautiful fireplace and can imagine an overstuffed leather chair, a cigar and a glass of Brunello, you can’t say you love the place.

Beautiful things are so sneaky, I was reading an article about a girl who had gone to the museum, she had spent the entire day admiring a small watercolor painting. She had been to the exhibit many times and the watercolor had always been there but that day it jumped out and grabbed her and she could not get away. This has happened to me many times. I see something on a regular basis and then one day I realize just how beautiful it is.

A new exhibit has just opened in Rome featuring the renaissance artist Raffaello. His works have been brought to Villa Borghese from museums all over the world and can be seen through the 27th of August, 2006. This is a once in a lifetime occasion. Many of the works of Raffaello are not found in one location. The museums jealously hold the works. The theme of the show follows the migration of Raffaello from Florence to Rome where he completed the transformation of his style with the Deposition, a trilogy that represents the values of faith, hope and charity.

The show includes works from 1505-1508. It is intended to show the evolution of the painter as he migrates from Florence to Rome, where he would then paint numerous murals in the Vatican. The exhibit is divided into three primary sections. The first is dedicated to portraits, the second represents the Madonna with baby Jesus and the third is entirely dedicated to the Deposition.

The transformation of Raffaello’s style is considered unique. Rarely an artist is able to criticize his own works and incorporate more advanced techniques and methods in such a short period of time. The voyage into Raffaello’s life begins as Raffaello assimilates the techniques movement and space from Michelangelo and Leonardo. His paintings epitomize the divine in the literal sense of the word as he creates a parallel world of perfect balance of movement and proportion. A world that could be real, always existing but never before represented.

The study ends with an entire room dedicated to the Deposition. The Deposition, which initiates a new era for the painter, is the result of great internal tribulation as the artist criticizes his own style and technique and is reborn. His transition is evidenced in this work as his vision of beauty and balance clearly change from earlier works.

Not all appreciate art. A museum is a boring trip with some nice things but generally not worth the time. Every once in awhile this sneaky beauty surprises, jumps out and holds you, and a whole new world opens as the imagination soars. For some this exhibit will open that world, for others it will simply be some beautiful paintings created 500 years ago, but for all it is worth the trip. Who knows, it may be your turn to remain immobile, unaware of time, as this sneaky art takes you to a new dimension.

Tags: Raffaello Lazio Rome Art and Culture Renaissance Travel Italy

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