Castione della Presolana – Winter Fun Vacation in a little known Mountain Community

Castione della Presolana, the last town in the Upper Seriana Valley, owes its name in part to Mount Presolana which dominates over the area. The Castione basin and its outlying district of Bratto, Dorga and Cantoniera face each other in terrace-fashion along the road that leads up to Presolana Pass. The pass faces Adamello and serves as a divide between the Valle Seriana and the Valle di Scalve. Castione is a classic Bergamo winter resort and is also frequented during the summer due to its panoramic location and the fine hotels that have a long tradition of hospitality.


The ski lifts are located in the Cantoniera area toward the pass and in the south on Monte Pora. The slopes range from beginner to expert and the scenic view is captivating, as are the cross-country ski trails at 1600 meters. The slopes are not just limited to skiing. The wide trails permit snowboarding and sledding. The local operators also organize classes for all experience levels.

Rock and Mountain climbing are also big attractions with numerous groups organizing excursions in both the winter and summer months. For young climbers the local groups organize classes during the summer time for some spectacular climbs. Cycling is one of the most followed sports in the Bergamasca. The Presolana is no exception sponsoring international races riding over and through the 2,200 meter passes. Finally a new addition in the last 10 years is the appearance of top grade golf courses including both Italian and European competitions.

The Presolana is a destination, like many destinations in Italy, primarily known by the locals. The schools prepare fieldtrips and the older kids will make this a favorite weekend destination. The lack of notoriety does not mean that the snow is not great or the infrastructures are not adequate. Close by are the Springs of San Pellegrino, the water so famous here in the US. Spa treatments are available with a little planning and there are numerous B & B, Agriturismo and apartments for rent. I cannot suggest great lodging because I lived just a hop, skip and jump away but the people are friendly and down to earth. They could easily be your drinking buddies on a Saturday night.

This is a white winter vacation for those who want to stay away from the crowds and just enjoy a week in the snow. The food is fantastic, many of the local dishes are traditional Bergamasco so Polenta Taragna, Pizzoccheri with porcini mushrooms, Taleggio, Casoncelli, and wild Boar are just a few of the hearty dishes. Carnevale is celebrated with masks on the ski slopes including night parades with torches. Vin Brule’, dancing, live music and pastries are on tap just about all year round. Surely no one will write about this jewel of a small but for me it was a winter escape for many years.


Tags: Winter Vacations Presolana Bergamo Skiing Spa Mountain Climbing Travel Italy

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Santa Caterina Valfurva – A hidden Gem of a Winter Vacation

With 800 linear miles of mountain ranges in Italy, including the about 300 of the Alps it is not hard to imagine that there are some really great winter destinations that are not famous, let’s say hidden gems. Santa Caterina Valfurva, near Sondrio, is one of these destinations. Santa Caterina Valfurva, located in the northern section of Valtellina, is well connected. From the Airport of Bergamo, Orio sul Serio, there is a nonstop bus that transits the Val Cavallina. Trains and buses from Sondrio also run on a regular basis. Bergamaschi will most often drive but others should seriously considered using the train or bus routes, especially in the winter months.

While all of the hotels are clean and comfortable, even quaint, there are no four or five star structures. On the other hand there are numerous Bed and Breakfast and an Agriturismo where the food is simply heavenly. I would also suggest looking into a chalet or private residence. Prices are reasonable even in the high season. To be truthful they can be considered cheap or a great price/quality ratio. A couple of good solutions are: Thurweiser Hotel Garni, Hotel Campagnoni, Chalet Ginepro, Agriturismo Baita di Nasegn, and for a truly unique experience Rifugio Ghiaccio dei Forni at 2,200 meters.

S.Caterina Valfurva, sits in a valley at 1738 meters (that is just over 1 mile) at the feet of the Ortles-Cevedale mountain range, has a long and rich history spanning several centuries. In the XIV and XV centuries Santa Caterina was an important stop on the commercial routes between the Republic of Venice and County of Bormio. The strategic location creates a blossoming commercial trade.

The Valfurva has been able to maintain its autonomy and local culture even under the occupation of the Grigioni. The dominion lasted almost 300 years from 1512 to 1797. Most recently, durning WWI and WWII Santa Caterina saw fierce fighting as the Partigiani and the Alpini made courageous stands against the Germans and Austrians protecting the entire hinterland of Milan. Numerous memorials and museums are open to the public regarding these difficult times.

The winter sports are great. This area is not as well known as some of the other winter vacation destinations thus crowds are less, fewer lines and reasonable prices. This does not mean that the slopes or powder are not as good, simply fewer people know about them. It is not as chic to say that you went to Santa Caterina Valfurva but the experience is just as exhilarating.

The food is hearty and the wine genuine. Local specialties include Chestnut Gnocchi with Speck, Vegetable Ravioli, Gnocchi with Carrot Ragu', Orzo Minestra, Lentils and Apples, and polenta. Not to be forgotten are the dessert pastries, usually made with wild berries, apples and cream.

If you are looking for an experience in the high mountains, winter sports, great food and want a place where those you know will never have visited this is the place for you. Take your camera the views are stupendous.

Tags: Winter Vacations Valfurva Valtellina Skiing Hotels Travel Italy

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Cortina d’Ampezzo – Italian Winter Holiday for the young and old

In the series of exclusive and hip Italian winter vacations Cortina d’Ampezzo in Trentino-Alto Adige holds an important place. In the sixties and seventies Cortina d’Ampezzo was the most exclusive of winter vacations but in recent years Courmayeur and Madonna di Campiglio have grown in popularity. Today, Cortina d’Ampezza has less buzz than Courmayeur or Madonna di Campiglio but has everything else including some great regional foods and wines. The costs for this location are also somewhat lower making this a great destination for the traveler passionate about winter vacations.

Cortina d’Ampezzo is located in Dolomite Mountains of Northeastern Italy about 30 minutes north of Belluno. The best way to travel is by train from Mestre-Venice. It will take a couple of hours but the ride has some incredible views. The village, boasting a thousand-year old remarkable historical background, has nearly 7,000 inhabitants. It attracts visitors from all over the world for its lively international atmosphere, its fashionable shops, and excellent restaurants.


Cortina is also known as the "Regina delle Dolomiti" - Queen of the Dolomites - since it is in the heart of the wonderful Dolomites. The village is surrounded by forests and wide ski slopes. All around the red rock mountains tower over the city. It offers something for everyone, including the topflight professional skiers.


The natural beauty has made Cortina d’Ampezzo the set for a number of worldwide famous movies. Among them:

Ash Wednesday starring Elizabeth Taylor and Henry Fonda
The Pink Panther starring David Niven and Peter Sellers
For Your Eyes Only starring Roger Moore
VonRyan Express starring Frank Sinatra
Cliffhanger starring Sylvester Stallone


Lodging accommodations range from the simple chalet to the five-star hotel with all the amenities including Spa treatments. The top of the top is the Cristallo which specializes in reconditioning the body and the soul. Da Beppe Sello offers a true Alpine Mountain experience along with a great little restaurant. One of my favorites is the Franceschi Park Hotel. It has a great view and all the amenities of more expensive structures.

Cortina d’Ampezzo is also a great place to come with the family. It boasts numerous fun parks and winter activities exclusively for kids. This will allow the parents to venture onto the serious slopes while the kids are doing something both safe and fun. The city also has babysitter services for children who are too young to be out and about. The hotel will be able to coordinate everything you need if you let them know with a little advance notice.

Choosing a winter vacation destination is all about understanding what you are looking for. Cortina d’Ampezzo offers a wide range of opportunities including great food and wine, winter sports, spas and health treatment centers and generally a festive atmosphere hidden away in the Dolomite Mountains.

Tags: Winter Vacations Cortina d'Ampezzo Trentino Skiing Hotels Travel Italy

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Madonna di Campiglio – Italian Alps Winter Wonderland

One of the secrets to the Italian lifestyle is balance in life. Work is extremely important, as is play. Italian work contracts, from store clerk to CEO, include just over a month's paid vacation and 8 national holidays every year. This allows Italian families to spend their holidays visiting various cultures and destinations around the world. The week from Christmas to New Year's Day is the beginning of the winter vacation period. All of the primary destinations go all out with festivities, organized events, fireworks, food festivals and numerous nightclubs. For the Italians these week long vacations are an opportunity of extravagance.

Madonna di Campiglio is one of the favored destinations. Madonna di Campiglio, a discreet and elegant town nestling at an altitude of 1550 meters in the stupendous valley between the Brenta Dolomites and the glaciers of Adamello and Presanella, is today most certainly Italy’s number one ski resort as well as one of the most important resorts in the Alps. The variety of the surrounding mountains allows you to ski over countless kilometers of runs, up to an altitude of 2600 meters and with different degrees of difficulty. A fun thing to try is to set out from the centre of the town and return there without ever removing your skis.

Today the Ski Area boasts 57 lifts and 150 km of ski runs, with a capacity of more than 31,000 people per hour, 50,000 sq m of Snow Park, 40 km for Nordic skiing and there are plans to link up to the slopes in Pinzolo. This year Madonna di Campiglio hosts the 2007 World Freestyle Championships in January. As most top destinations Madonna di Campiglio is not just great winter sports.

Nightclubs, pubs and taverns are on just about every corner. One of the great hotels is the appropriate choice on your first visit to Madonna di Campiglio. Most of them are great but here are a few that I like: Hotel Carlo Magno Zeledria, Hotel Dahu and Hotel Cerana.

Once you have the lay of the land try out renting a cottage. There are some marvelous places, I mean breathtakingly marvelous!

Another fantastic experience is on the ski slopes. Go light on breakfast before hitting the slopes. Stop in at one of the top slope taverns and try out the coffee with Grappa, sausage and cheese. For lunch try out the polenta dishes, they are great. Perhaps it is the hunger, the cold or the scenery but everything just tastes so good.

Tags: Winter Vacations Madonna di Campiglio Trentino Skiing Hotels Travel Italy

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Courmayeur – Hot Italian Winter Vacation with snow on the Ground

Whether for the New Year’s Eve Bash or for a white week vacation to interrupt the long month at work, the white vacation is a unique opportunity to rejuvenate. Courmayeur is one of the preferred winter vacation spots for Italians. It is not just because it offers some of the best ski slopes in the world but it is also a fantastic place just to hang out and chat with new friends. Nestled in the Italian Alps in the shadow of the famous Monte Bianco, Courmayeur is a paradise of breathtaking views.


On any given day on the streets of Courmayeur you can find numerous individuals of the European “Who’s who”. This quaint destination caters to the traveler who wants to find all the excitement of the big city along with the personalized service of an esclusive vacation destination. Do not despair if skiing is not your thing. The shopping in Courmayeur is an experience in itself. The local hospitality infrastructure offers numerous winter activities, nightspots and generally fun activities. Needless to say most hotels offer complete spa treatments and some have created wellness packages ranging from a few days to a full weeks of decadent pamering.

I would suggest staying at the Hotel Courmayeur, Via Roma n°158 11013 Courmayeur (AO), if this is an adult vacation. For a family the Dolonne, Via della Vittoria n° 62 - Loc. Dolonne 11013 Courmayeur (AO), is a perfect spot. For those who may want to spend more time alone, with a great view the hotel Mont Blanc Village, Loc. La Croisette 36 11015 La Salle (AO) is definitely the way to go.

This is one of the reasons the rich and famous make Courmayeur one of their must visit destinations during the year. For the holidays, Courmayeur is going all out, a fireworks display on the 30th and every hotel is throwing some type of party. Food is an important part of any quality vacation. Courmayeur offers a selection of restaurants from fine and fancy dining to mountaineer trattoria. The area produces an frizzy Chardonnay that goes extremely well with the Fontina and Saouceusse e bdeun, a local version of dried meats.

It would be sin not to speak of the wide range of winter sports. There are instructors, classes and entire schools dedicated to Downhill skiing, cross country, snowboarding, ice climbing, and off trail. There are 25 slopes within a few minutes by bus. The courses offered go from novice to professional. This is the opportunity to learn from the best in the world and perhaps participate in some friendly competition.

Evenings in Courmayeur are no less exhilarating than the day on the slopes. Hot chocolate sipped gently in front of a full wall fireplace quickly turns to Caffe Valdostano. Dinner and Dancing are also part of the everyday activities so rest well before thinking about a vacation in Courmayeur. Finally Courmayeur is romantic. Whether it is your first trip with your partner or you have been together for a lifetime, Courmayeur is passion. It is your dream of cuddling on a cold winter’s night. It is beautiful people living the best of life. It is peace of the soul.

Tags: Winter Vacations Courmayeur Valle D'Aosta Skiing Hotels Travel Italy

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Women’s Winter Holiday Fashion 2007 - DOPOSCI

Doposci translates to “after ski”. Women's Winter Fashion would not be complete without including the white vacation outfits. I have long adored skiing and while a youngster in college spent many a study day on the slopes in Utah and Colorado. When I first went to Italy I was introduced to a heavy looking boot, all dressed out with fur, embroidered micro fibers or heavy cloth. They looked so warm and when combined with a winter outfit, I found them quite attractive. Let us say even sexy. I immediately thought of the timberland type boots we would wear in the lodge in the states and these Doposci seemed to be a mix between a heavy winter walking boot and ski boots.

Perhaps it was the fact that every woman I saw wearing these boots was hot but I have since associated Doposci with soft, warm femininity. As I was working on my article about Gucci Accessories I was distracted by the marvelous things shuffling through the snow of the white vacation destinations of Courmayeur, Sestriere, Cortina, Madonna di Campiglio and the Presolana.

The look is Doposci, leather or heavy knit jacket or cape and a hood. The hood, almost exclusively fur lined, is loose fitting and draped creating a show, don’t show, illusion of mystery. This outfit is definitely designed to bring attention to a woman’s lines and curves accentuating a man’s curiosity. The Doposci can also be combined with just about any style of jeans adapting equally well to the casual and the out and about dress.


In Italy Doposci are usually reserved for the winter vacation spots but in Northern Italy can also be seen during the coldest weeks of late January and February. Doposci can be found in any major Italian city and will be sold at a reduced price starting the first week of February. These are unique designs and can be worn for several years without concern of seeing someone else with a similar boot.



The boots and outfits displayed here can be found at the boutique of the Crystal Czar, Fiona Winter-Swarovski, in Milan. Her boutique can be found at:

Fiona Winter Studio
Showroom
Via Casati 2
Milan
Tel: +39.02.2056941


Tags: Winter Fashion Boots After Ski Milan Women's Fashion Italian Fasion Travel Italy

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Italian Christmas Traditions – Christmas in Merano – Dream Destination

A fairytale scene, the streets are white with snow. The Dolomite Mountains tower high into the evening sky. Cedar shingled shops with high pointed roofs line the path that disappears into a goose down comforter. We try to catch on our tongue the quarter size crystals falling from the sky, scuffling our boots in the newly fallen snow. White lights twinkle above our heads, reflecting, blinking. It becomes difficult to tell the difference between the snow falling and the Christmas lights forming patterns of stars, snowflakes and Santa Claus. It is somehow dark of night and bright as midday at the same time.

The shops shine from their windows colors of red and gold. Evergreen branches adorn the doors and windows. A wood carved totem of Santa Claus here and the Toy Soldier of the Nutcracker Suite there. People scurry, packages with brightly colored paper and hand tied silk bows in their hands. Music plays in the background muffled by the snow and the perfume of sweet holiday bread fills overwhelms. My nose is cold, Raffaella’s cheeks are bright red yet we continue down the street humming sometimes outright singing the Christmas songs. No one seems to mind or for that matter notice. The air is festive.

Every few steps, we stop, and gaze at the marvels displayed in the windows. Just ahead the Christmas Fair, sixty or so artisan stands of fresh bread, dried meats and cheeses. The brass band plays, accompanied by the local choir, songs of Christmas and the church bells chime, some on the hour, others on the half. If Christmas had a smell, this would be it. The scent of pine on the wind, the fresh smell of snow renewing continuously, fresh bread baking, Vin Brule’ in a cup, and hand carved candles burning. Look across the street, it is the post office of Santa Claus.

Every year the city of Merano in South Tyrol hosts a Christmas Fair during the entire month of December. Local artisans sell their handmade Christmas candles and woodcarvings. The local meats and cheeses are some of the main attractions. Bakers move their wood burning ovens into the streets and fill the air with a constant and pervasive perfume of fresh baked breads. The Christmas fair in Merano is not your typical Italian destination. It is the mountainous Italy where the local dialect is more Austrian than Italian but this is Italy. It is tradition. It is an important part of the rich cultures accumulated over the centuries, mixing and blending. It is Christmas.

Take your heavy coat and a good appetite. Plan a week, perhaps with some cross country skiing or hiking. Bring your love for wine, this is home to the International Wine Festival. Bring your loved one and most of all, bring your inner child, that part of you that wants to skip down the street, make snow angels, sing Christmas carols, eat until you cannot move any more and revel in the fascination of Christmas.

Tags: Winter Holidays Merano
Holiday Traditions Italian Holidays Christmas Traditions Food and Wine Travel Italy

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Barbaresco Gaja 1998 – Red Wine from Piemonte

One of Italy's great red wines, produced from Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Langhe area of Piemonte. The wine takes its name from the village of its origin. 100% Nebbiolo, aged in Ash or Oak barrels, great tannins, this wine is one of my favorites. We opened the Barbaresco about 40 minutes before the cannelloni were ready. After the Sori Tildin the dry Barbaresco was fantastic. The cannelloni had a rich, meat based sauce. The Barbaresco easily cleaned the palette and complimented with fullness of flavors.

This is an expensive wine. Best for special occasions and should not be mixed with lower quality wines. It is not necessary to drink a lot to drink well. Take it slow, let the wine take you over. It will heighten the senses and accompanying an appropriate dish will leave you extremely satisfied.

Gaja is a premier producer, some of its production receives 100 on the wine spectator scale, and this wine is among the top.

Color: Garnet.

Aroma: The nose is almost sensual in its complexity, with aromas of forest fruits, plums, licorice, mineral and coffee scents.

Taste: Long, complex finish with fine, silk-like tannins and good acidity; dense structure, full of super-ripe fruit.

Aging: 12 months of barrel aging; 12 months of aging in large oak casks.

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Sestriere – Ski the Olympic Slopes

The area is called VIALATTEA. There are about 50 different locations but I thought I would write about my three favorite destinations. Each location has lodging and there are slopes from intermediate to expert. The slopes are well groomed and the snow is great during the entire season.

Of all the locations the “Sises” is my favorite. It has slopes on two mountains that finish in the valley. It takes a four-seat chair followed by the traditional ski lift to arrive at the 2600 meter top. The beginning of the slope is rather steep but very wide, as it winds down the slope takes on a gentler gradient. As it arrives at the level of the first lift the gradient increases significantly. This is the area where the grand slalom is located. Images of Alberto Tomba flying down the course pass through your mind as you hit this section.

The highest slopes of the VIALATTEA are found at “Banchetta”. Again it takes two ski lifts to arrive at the 2,800 meters. This location is the destination of the World Cup freestyle. The right side of the "Motta" has a long straight course. Near the first lift the slope decreases to then fall off diagonally; the slope decreases again and follows a wide curve toward the forest. At this point the slope increases as due the curves as the course winds its way toward the town.

On the left side of the "Motta" there is a large plateau, rather steep, but wide and the snow is usually fresh, the course falls into a bowl. It then swings to the left to then enter course number 32. This is a fantastic course, not very difficult, but the type of snow changes continuously. It finishes following a road that connects the “Chisonetto”, finally sliding into the base area and ski lift station.

Tags:Skiing Torino Turin Winter Vacation Alps Piemonte Travel Italy

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Turin means Chocolate

When we think of quality chocolate often we think of Swiss or Dutch versions however Italy has a strong tradition in the production of chocolate and Turin was the birthplace of Italian chocolate production. Since I am a chocoholic each trip to Turin meant a chocolate fix. I would always try some new place and the number of family owned businesses that have perfected the art of making chocolate is impressive. I know I have not convinced you that chocolate and Turin are synonyms so I thought the history of European chocolate would be interesting.


The folklore of Chocolate: The chocolate plant is said to have divine origins. A princess was left to guard the treasure of her husband. During a fierce battle with the enemies she was overcome. The attacking forces attempted to force her to reveal the location of the treasure but she was killed without disclosing the information. From her blood, the chocolate plant was born. This plant held a treasure in its seeds, "bitter as the pain of love, strong as virtue, slightly red as blood".

Chocolate was also the coinage of the Aztecs. A pumpkin cost 4 beans, a rabbit 10 beans, an amorous night with a concubine 12 beans, and a slave 100 beans.

From France, the chocolate bean was introduced into Piemonte in the late 1600s. Numerous pastry chefs began working the new material and Turin quickly became the capital for chocolate. The first regal license and process patent, from the house of the Savoia, was granted in 1678 to Gio' Battista Ari. Shortly thereafter the first chocolate production plant opened. Soon after the monks from various monasteries found that this was a good way to increment their natural food product lines and moved heavily into refining and producing chocolate. In the middle 1700s various Swiss chefs worked as apprentices in the Turin chocolate facilities. You can still see the influence of the Turin chocolate makers in Swiss production by the names utilized for their top line chocolates.

Initially chocolate was only available as a drink. The process to prepare chocolate was very similar to that of coffee.

In 1732 a French artisan Dubuisson invented the flat table heated with hot coals. This process was significantly more efficient because it allowed the workers refining the chocolate beans to stand up. From this invention, in 1778 in France, the first hydraulic machine to refine the chocolate was patented.

In the early 1800s the English patented a steam based refining machine and began working extremely high quantities of cacao beans.

Later, in Holland, Van Houten invented a machine that extracted the butter of cacao from the beans. This resulted in a chocolate that was more fluid, thus more palatable.

In the late 1800s the Swiss, Daniel Peter, added condensed milk to the chocolate butter resulting in a solid milk chocolate. Simultaneously another Swiss, Rudolph Lindt, created a new and original method to refine chocolate resulting in an extremely refined cacao butter, thus dark chocolate.

Today "Chocolato Caldo" or hot chocolate is still prepared in way very similar to the method used in the 1700s. "Chocolato Caldo" is very hot and thick, much like drinking hot chocolate pudding without all the sugar. This is a marvelous treat in the winter, when in Turin.

A slight variation on chocolate is the heavenly smooth Gianduia. This chocolate delight has origins of its own. In 1806 Napoleon placed a blockade against the royal family of Turin. The people of Turin would not give up their chocolate but times were difficult. The chocolate chefs came up with a solution. They added 20-40 grams of hazelnut cream for every 100 grams of chocolate. My brother loves Gianduia, he often asks for me to bring these chocolates home when I return from Italy. It should be remembered that high quality chocolates and Gianduia are produced and sold only in the months where the outside temperature is less than 78 degrees.

The places to find really great chocolate in Turin:

Leinì
Giordano
p.zza Carlo Felice, 69 / tel. 011 547 121

Accornero
via Vanchiglia, 32 / tel. 0118 122 859

Gertosio & Sperandri
via Lagrange, 34 / tel. 0115 621 942

Madama Reale
via Mazzini, 19 / tel. 0118 174 385

Peyrano-Pfatish
c.so Vittorio Emanuele, 76 / tel. 011 538 765

Baratti & Milano
p.zza Castello, 27 / tel. 0115 613 060

Stratta
p.zza San Carlo, 191 / tel. 011 547 920


Tags: Chocolate Torino Turin Shopping Alps Piemonte Travel Italy

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Turin Olympics – The Schedule

The Torino 2006 Winter Olympics begin with the opening ceremonies on February 10, 2006 in the city of Turin. Ice Hockey, Speed Skating, Figure Skating, Figure Skating and Curling will all be held in the city itself while the outdoor sports will be located in the various resort locations around Piemonte.

Here are the sports and the locations where the competition will be held:

Ski Jumping, Cross Country, and Nordic Combined – Pragelato
Alpine Skiing – Sestriere and San Sicario Fraiteve
Biathlon – Cesano San Sicario
Bobsleigh, Skeleton, and Luge – Cesano Pariol
Freestyle Skiing – Sauze d’Oulx, Jouvenceaux
Snowboard - Bardonecchia

Complete information including the explanation of the events can be downloaded [955k Pdf file] here

Tickets can be purchased here

Sestiere is truly beautiful whether you ski or not and is definitely worth spending a week. Unfortunately I have not been to the other locations as I preferred destinations closer to my home in Bergamo.

Tags: Olympics Torino Winter Vacation Skiing Alps Piemonte Travel Italy

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