Castione della Presolana – Winter Fun Vacation in a little known Mountain Community

Castione della Presolana, the last town in the Upper Seriana Valley, owes its name in part to Mount Presolana which dominates over the area. The Castione basin and its outlying district of Bratto, Dorga and Cantoniera face each other in terrace-fashion along the road that leads up to Presolana Pass. The pass faces Adamello and serves as a divide between the Valle Seriana and the Valle di Scalve. Castione is a classic Bergamo winter resort and is also frequented during the summer due to its panoramic location and the fine hotels that have a long tradition of hospitality.


The ski lifts are located in the Cantoniera area toward the pass and in the south on Monte Pora. The slopes range from beginner to expert and the scenic view is captivating, as are the cross-country ski trails at 1600 meters. The slopes are not just limited to skiing. The wide trails permit snowboarding and sledding. The local operators also organize classes for all experience levels.

Rock and Mountain climbing are also big attractions with numerous groups organizing excursions in both the winter and summer months. For young climbers the local groups organize classes during the summer time for some spectacular climbs. Cycling is one of the most followed sports in the Bergamasca. The Presolana is no exception sponsoring international races riding over and through the 2,200 meter passes. Finally a new addition in the last 10 years is the appearance of top grade golf courses including both Italian and European competitions.

The Presolana is a destination, like many destinations in Italy, primarily known by the locals. The schools prepare fieldtrips and the older kids will make this a favorite weekend destination. The lack of notoriety does not mean that the snow is not great or the infrastructures are not adequate. Close by are the Springs of San Pellegrino, the water so famous here in the US. Spa treatments are available with a little planning and there are numerous B & B, Agriturismo and apartments for rent. I cannot suggest great lodging because I lived just a hop, skip and jump away but the people are friendly and down to earth. They could easily be your drinking buddies on a Saturday night.

This is a white winter vacation for those who want to stay away from the crowds and just enjoy a week in the snow. The food is fantastic, many of the local dishes are traditional Bergamasco so Polenta Taragna, Pizzoccheri with porcini mushrooms, Taleggio, Casoncelli, and wild Boar are just a few of the hearty dishes. Carnevale is celebrated with masks on the ski slopes including night parades with torches. Vin Brule’, dancing, live music and pastries are on tap just about all year round. Surely no one will write about this jewel of a small but for me it was a winter escape for many years.


Tags: Winter Vacations Presolana Bergamo Skiing Spa Mountain Climbing Travel Italy

Read the Full Story...

Santa Caterina Valfurva – A hidden Gem of a Winter Vacation

With 800 linear miles of mountain ranges in Italy, including the about 300 of the Alps it is not hard to imagine that there are some really great winter destinations that are not famous, let’s say hidden gems. Santa Caterina Valfurva, near Sondrio, is one of these destinations. Santa Caterina Valfurva, located in the northern section of Valtellina, is well connected. From the Airport of Bergamo, Orio sul Serio, there is a nonstop bus that transits the Val Cavallina. Trains and buses from Sondrio also run on a regular basis. Bergamaschi will most often drive but others should seriously considered using the train or bus routes, especially in the winter months.

While all of the hotels are clean and comfortable, even quaint, there are no four or five star structures. On the other hand there are numerous Bed and Breakfast and an Agriturismo where the food is simply heavenly. I would also suggest looking into a chalet or private residence. Prices are reasonable even in the high season. To be truthful they can be considered cheap or a great price/quality ratio. A couple of good solutions are: Thurweiser Hotel Garni, Hotel Campagnoni, Chalet Ginepro, Agriturismo Baita di Nasegn, and for a truly unique experience Rifugio Ghiaccio dei Forni at 2,200 meters.

S.Caterina Valfurva, sits in a valley at 1738 meters (that is just over 1 mile) at the feet of the Ortles-Cevedale mountain range, has a long and rich history spanning several centuries. In the XIV and XV centuries Santa Caterina was an important stop on the commercial routes between the Republic of Venice and County of Bormio. The strategic location creates a blossoming commercial trade.

The Valfurva has been able to maintain its autonomy and local culture even under the occupation of the Grigioni. The dominion lasted almost 300 years from 1512 to 1797. Most recently, durning WWI and WWII Santa Caterina saw fierce fighting as the Partigiani and the Alpini made courageous stands against the Germans and Austrians protecting the entire hinterland of Milan. Numerous memorials and museums are open to the public regarding these difficult times.

The winter sports are great. This area is not as well known as some of the other winter vacation destinations thus crowds are less, fewer lines and reasonable prices. This does not mean that the slopes or powder are not as good, simply fewer people know about them. It is not as chic to say that you went to Santa Caterina Valfurva but the experience is just as exhilarating.

The food is hearty and the wine genuine. Local specialties include Chestnut Gnocchi with Speck, Vegetable Ravioli, Gnocchi with Carrot Ragu', Orzo Minestra, Lentils and Apples, and polenta. Not to be forgotten are the dessert pastries, usually made with wild berries, apples and cream.

If you are looking for an experience in the high mountains, winter sports, great food and want a place where those you know will never have visited this is the place for you. Take your camera the views are stupendous.

Tags: Winter Vacations Valfurva Valtellina Skiing Hotels Travel Italy

Read the Full Story...

Cortina d’Ampezzo – Italian Winter Holiday for the young and old

In the series of exclusive and hip Italian winter vacations Cortina d’Ampezzo in Trentino-Alto Adige holds an important place. In the sixties and seventies Cortina d’Ampezzo was the most exclusive of winter vacations but in recent years Courmayeur and Madonna di Campiglio have grown in popularity. Today, Cortina d’Ampezza has less buzz than Courmayeur or Madonna di Campiglio but has everything else including some great regional foods and wines. The costs for this location are also somewhat lower making this a great destination for the traveler passionate about winter vacations.

Cortina d’Ampezzo is located in Dolomite Mountains of Northeastern Italy about 30 minutes north of Belluno. The best way to travel is by train from Mestre-Venice. It will take a couple of hours but the ride has some incredible views. The village, boasting a thousand-year old remarkable historical background, has nearly 7,000 inhabitants. It attracts visitors from all over the world for its lively international atmosphere, its fashionable shops, and excellent restaurants.


Cortina is also known as the "Regina delle Dolomiti" - Queen of the Dolomites - since it is in the heart of the wonderful Dolomites. The village is surrounded by forests and wide ski slopes. All around the red rock mountains tower over the city. It offers something for everyone, including the topflight professional skiers.


The natural beauty has made Cortina d’Ampezzo the set for a number of worldwide famous movies. Among them:

Ash Wednesday starring Elizabeth Taylor and Henry Fonda
The Pink Panther starring David Niven and Peter Sellers
For Your Eyes Only starring Roger Moore
VonRyan Express starring Frank Sinatra
Cliffhanger starring Sylvester Stallone


Lodging accommodations range from the simple chalet to the five-star hotel with all the amenities including Spa treatments. The top of the top is the Cristallo which specializes in reconditioning the body and the soul. Da Beppe Sello offers a true Alpine Mountain experience along with a great little restaurant. One of my favorites is the Franceschi Park Hotel. It has a great view and all the amenities of more expensive structures.

Cortina d’Ampezzo is also a great place to come with the family. It boasts numerous fun parks and winter activities exclusively for kids. This will allow the parents to venture onto the serious slopes while the kids are doing something both safe and fun. The city also has babysitter services for children who are too young to be out and about. The hotel will be able to coordinate everything you need if you let them know with a little advance notice.

Choosing a winter vacation destination is all about understanding what you are looking for. Cortina d’Ampezzo offers a wide range of opportunities including great food and wine, winter sports, spas and health treatment centers and generally a festive atmosphere hidden away in the Dolomite Mountains.

Tags: Winter Vacations Cortina d'Ampezzo Trentino Skiing Hotels Travel Italy

Read the Full Story...

Madonna di Campiglio – Italian Alps Winter Wonderland

One of the secrets to the Italian lifestyle is balance in life. Work is extremely important, as is play. Italian work contracts, from store clerk to CEO, include just over a month's paid vacation and 8 national holidays every year. This allows Italian families to spend their holidays visiting various cultures and destinations around the world. The week from Christmas to New Year's Day is the beginning of the winter vacation period. All of the primary destinations go all out with festivities, organized events, fireworks, food festivals and numerous nightclubs. For the Italians these week long vacations are an opportunity of extravagance.

Madonna di Campiglio is one of the favored destinations. Madonna di Campiglio, a discreet and elegant town nestling at an altitude of 1550 meters in the stupendous valley between the Brenta Dolomites and the glaciers of Adamello and Presanella, is today most certainly Italy’s number one ski resort as well as one of the most important resorts in the Alps. The variety of the surrounding mountains allows you to ski over countless kilometers of runs, up to an altitude of 2600 meters and with different degrees of difficulty. A fun thing to try is to set out from the centre of the town and return there without ever removing your skis.

Today the Ski Area boasts 57 lifts and 150 km of ski runs, with a capacity of more than 31,000 people per hour, 50,000 sq m of Snow Park, 40 km for Nordic skiing and there are plans to link up to the slopes in Pinzolo. This year Madonna di Campiglio hosts the 2007 World Freestyle Championships in January. As most top destinations Madonna di Campiglio is not just great winter sports.

Nightclubs, pubs and taverns are on just about every corner. One of the great hotels is the appropriate choice on your first visit to Madonna di Campiglio. Most of them are great but here are a few that I like: Hotel Carlo Magno Zeledria, Hotel Dahu and Hotel Cerana.

Once you have the lay of the land try out renting a cottage. There are some marvelous places, I mean breathtakingly marvelous!

Another fantastic experience is on the ski slopes. Go light on breakfast before hitting the slopes. Stop in at one of the top slope taverns and try out the coffee with Grappa, sausage and cheese. For lunch try out the polenta dishes, they are great. Perhaps it is the hunger, the cold or the scenery but everything just tastes so good.

Tags: Winter Vacations Madonna di Campiglio Trentino Skiing Hotels Travel Italy

Read the Full Story...

Sestriere – Ski the Olympic Slopes

The area is called VIALATTEA. There are about 50 different locations but I thought I would write about my three favorite destinations. Each location has lodging and there are slopes from intermediate to expert. The slopes are well groomed and the snow is great during the entire season.

Of all the locations the “Sises” is my favorite. It has slopes on two mountains that finish in the valley. It takes a four-seat chair followed by the traditional ski lift to arrive at the 2600 meter top. The beginning of the slope is rather steep but very wide, as it winds down the slope takes on a gentler gradient. As it arrives at the level of the first lift the gradient increases significantly. This is the area where the grand slalom is located. Images of Alberto Tomba flying down the course pass through your mind as you hit this section.

The highest slopes of the VIALATTEA are found at “Banchetta”. Again it takes two ski lifts to arrive at the 2,800 meters. This location is the destination of the World Cup freestyle. The right side of the "Motta" has a long straight course. Near the first lift the slope decreases to then fall off diagonally; the slope decreases again and follows a wide curve toward the forest. At this point the slope increases as due the curves as the course winds its way toward the town.

On the left side of the "Motta" there is a large plateau, rather steep, but wide and the snow is usually fresh, the course falls into a bowl. It then swings to the left to then enter course number 32. This is a fantastic course, not very difficult, but the type of snow changes continuously. It finishes following a road that connects the “Chisonetto”, finally sliding into the base area and ski lift station.

Tags:Skiing Torino Turin Winter Vacation Alps Piemonte Travel Italy

Read the Full Story...

Turin Olympics – The Schedule

The Torino 2006 Winter Olympics begin with the opening ceremonies on February 10, 2006 in the city of Turin. Ice Hockey, Speed Skating, Figure Skating, Figure Skating and Curling will all be held in the city itself while the outdoor sports will be located in the various resort locations around Piemonte.

Here are the sports and the locations where the competition will be held:

Ski Jumping, Cross Country, and Nordic Combined – Pragelato
Alpine Skiing – Sestriere and San Sicario Fraiteve
Biathlon – Cesano San Sicario
Bobsleigh, Skeleton, and Luge – Cesano Pariol
Freestyle Skiing – Sauze d’Oulx, Jouvenceaux
Snowboard - Bardonecchia

Complete information including the explanation of the events can be downloaded [955k Pdf file] here

Tickets can be purchased here

Sestiere is truly beautiful whether you ski or not and is definitely worth spending a week. Unfortunately I have not been to the other locations as I preferred destinations closer to my home in Bergamo.

Tags: Olympics Torino Winter Vacation Skiing Alps Piemonte Travel Italy

Read the Full Story...

Turin Olympics - Torino 2006

Turin is a complex city. Turin’s history is birthplace of kings, seat of marvelous wines both red and white, manufacturing giant, and today primary destination for winter tourism. Both location and the genealogy of the royal family have created strong French influences in local culture. The local dialects are varying degrees of provincial French. I lived in various cities in Piemonte, Torino, Torre Pellice and Cuneo. I was amazed that my Italian, however poor, was useless; Provincial French was the basis for communicating with everyone, so if you happen to visit the Winter Olympics, try speaking French, you may be surprised at the response.

Piemonte is one of the greatest winter sport destinations in the world, interestingly it is completely overlooked. People think of Switzerland for skiing. Switzerland has some fantastic skiing but does not have the hospitality, infrastructures and variety of locations that Piemonte encompasses. Just as importantly, when is the last time you thought of Switzerland for a good wine? Piemonte is such a great destination that this year’s edition of the Winter Olympics is the 2nd in the last 30 years.

If you are planning to visit the Olympics make sure that your accommodations are in Turin or more west. This is a (attention it is a 138k pdf file) map from the Torino 2006 Winter Olympics official site.

Tags: Olympics Torino Winter Vacation
Skiing Alps Piemonte Travel Italy

Read the Full Story...

Turin Overview

Turin is nestled at the base of the Alps in the northwestern corner of Italy. During my first year in Italy, 1980, I lived for about six months in this beautiful city. I must specify, at that time I was a missionary for my church, so I was very poor. The living conditions were pretty terrible but the apartment, a 5th floor loft with no heating, was located right on the river on the east side of the city in Corso Casale. The stone floors would create dust, no matter how often you cleaned them, and Turin can be VERY cold.

FIAT, the car manufacturer or as they say in New York “Fix It Again Tony”, was still a big company at that time. They were the major employer and 50% of the city’s territory and 90% of the businesses, directly or indirectly, worked for FIAT. The FIAT plants are just huge warehouse like structures, really ugly, and go on for several city blocks.

I lived through this experience and over the years have learned to appreciate Turin for its great culture. In the 1800s Turin was the capital of Italy. One of the 3 primary Italian royal families also called Turin home. Remember that Italy has had several kingdoms thus the royal families are rather prevalent. If you add in Napoleon, who was born in Corsica that was Italy until he, as emperor of France, annexed the island to France.

Today FIAT is less important, after they milked GM for 5 billion, yes billion, dollars they have just about exited the automobile industry. If GM had asked me I could have saved them a lot of money. Turin, once part of the “Iron Triangle”, is no longer the industrial power it was. Turin is dedicating more attention to tourism and that makes Turin, and the rest of Piedmont, a great place to visit. Although my experience may not be 360 degrees, if you like to Ski, visit castles turned into hotels and resorts, eat and stay at Agriturismo (farms where you can eat what is produced directly on the farm), or like to visit wineries, Turin is a great place to go.

Over the next weeks I will talk about the Olympics and make a round of the various wines produced in this area. A word about the people from Turin, there is a saying “Torinese falso cortese,” or “Torinese is double faced.” Watch your Ps and Qs.

Tags: Olympics Torino Winter Vacation Skiing Alps Piemonte Travel Italy

Read the Full Story...