Santa Caterina Valfurva – A hidden Gem of a Winter Vacation

With 800 linear miles of mountain ranges in Italy, including the about 300 of the Alps it is not hard to imagine that there are some really great winter destinations that are not famous, let’s say hidden gems. Santa Caterina Valfurva, near Sondrio, is one of these destinations. Santa Caterina Valfurva, located in the northern section of Valtellina, is well connected. From the Airport of Bergamo, Orio sul Serio, there is a nonstop bus that transits the Val Cavallina. Trains and buses from Sondrio also run on a regular basis. Bergamaschi will most often drive but others should seriously considered using the train or bus routes, especially in the winter months.

While all of the hotels are clean and comfortable, even quaint, there are no four or five star structures. On the other hand there are numerous Bed and Breakfast and an Agriturismo where the food is simply heavenly. I would also suggest looking into a chalet or private residence. Prices are reasonable even in the high season. To be truthful they can be considered cheap or a great price/quality ratio. A couple of good solutions are: Thurweiser Hotel Garni, Hotel Campagnoni, Chalet Ginepro, Agriturismo Baita di Nasegn, and for a truly unique experience Rifugio Ghiaccio dei Forni at 2,200 meters.

S.Caterina Valfurva, sits in a valley at 1738 meters (that is just over 1 mile) at the feet of the Ortles-Cevedale mountain range, has a long and rich history spanning several centuries. In the XIV and XV centuries Santa Caterina was an important stop on the commercial routes between the Republic of Venice and County of Bormio. The strategic location creates a blossoming commercial trade.

The Valfurva has been able to maintain its autonomy and local culture even under the occupation of the Grigioni. The dominion lasted almost 300 years from 1512 to 1797. Most recently, durning WWI and WWII Santa Caterina saw fierce fighting as the Partigiani and the Alpini made courageous stands against the Germans and Austrians protecting the entire hinterland of Milan. Numerous memorials and museums are open to the public regarding these difficult times.

The winter sports are great. This area is not as well known as some of the other winter vacation destinations thus crowds are less, fewer lines and reasonable prices. This does not mean that the slopes or powder are not as good, simply fewer people know about them. It is not as chic to say that you went to Santa Caterina Valfurva but the experience is just as exhilarating.

The food is hearty and the wine genuine. Local specialties include Chestnut Gnocchi with Speck, Vegetable Ravioli, Gnocchi with Carrot Ragu', Orzo Minestra, Lentils and Apples, and polenta. Not to be forgotten are the dessert pastries, usually made with wild berries, apples and cream.

If you are looking for an experience in the high mountains, winter sports, great food and want a place where those you know will never have visited this is the place for you. Take your camera the views are stupendous.

Tags: Winter Vacations Valfurva Valtellina Skiing Hotels Travel Italy

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Cortina d’Ampezzo – Italian Winter Holiday for the young and old

In the series of exclusive and hip Italian winter vacations Cortina d’Ampezzo in Trentino-Alto Adige holds an important place. In the sixties and seventies Cortina d’Ampezzo was the most exclusive of winter vacations but in recent years Courmayeur and Madonna di Campiglio have grown in popularity. Today, Cortina d’Ampezza has less buzz than Courmayeur or Madonna di Campiglio but has everything else including some great regional foods and wines. The costs for this location are also somewhat lower making this a great destination for the traveler passionate about winter vacations.

Cortina d’Ampezzo is located in Dolomite Mountains of Northeastern Italy about 30 minutes north of Belluno. The best way to travel is by train from Mestre-Venice. It will take a couple of hours but the ride has some incredible views. The village, boasting a thousand-year old remarkable historical background, has nearly 7,000 inhabitants. It attracts visitors from all over the world for its lively international atmosphere, its fashionable shops, and excellent restaurants.


Cortina is also known as the "Regina delle Dolomiti" - Queen of the Dolomites - since it is in the heart of the wonderful Dolomites. The village is surrounded by forests and wide ski slopes. All around the red rock mountains tower over the city. It offers something for everyone, including the topflight professional skiers.


The natural beauty has made Cortina d’Ampezzo the set for a number of worldwide famous movies. Among them:

Ash Wednesday starring Elizabeth Taylor and Henry Fonda
The Pink Panther starring David Niven and Peter Sellers
For Your Eyes Only starring Roger Moore
VonRyan Express starring Frank Sinatra
Cliffhanger starring Sylvester Stallone


Lodging accommodations range from the simple chalet to the five-star hotel with all the amenities including Spa treatments. The top of the top is the Cristallo which specializes in reconditioning the body and the soul. Da Beppe Sello offers a true Alpine Mountain experience along with a great little restaurant. One of my favorites is the Franceschi Park Hotel. It has a great view and all the amenities of more expensive structures.

Cortina d’Ampezzo is also a great place to come with the family. It boasts numerous fun parks and winter activities exclusively for kids. This will allow the parents to venture onto the serious slopes while the kids are doing something both safe and fun. The city also has babysitter services for children who are too young to be out and about. The hotel will be able to coordinate everything you need if you let them know with a little advance notice.

Choosing a winter vacation destination is all about understanding what you are looking for. Cortina d’Ampezzo offers a wide range of opportunities including great food and wine, winter sports, spas and health treatment centers and generally a festive atmosphere hidden away in the Dolomite Mountains.

Tags: Winter Vacations Cortina d'Ampezzo Trentino Skiing Hotels Travel Italy

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Courmayeur – Hot Italian Winter Vacation with snow on the Ground

Whether for the New Year’s Eve Bash or for a white week vacation to interrupt the long month at work, the white vacation is a unique opportunity to rejuvenate. Courmayeur is one of the preferred winter vacation spots for Italians. It is not just because it offers some of the best ski slopes in the world but it is also a fantastic place just to hang out and chat with new friends. Nestled in the Italian Alps in the shadow of the famous Monte Bianco, Courmayeur is a paradise of breathtaking views.


On any given day on the streets of Courmayeur you can find numerous individuals of the European “Who’s who”. This quaint destination caters to the traveler who wants to find all the excitement of the big city along with the personalized service of an esclusive vacation destination. Do not despair if skiing is not your thing. The shopping in Courmayeur is an experience in itself. The local hospitality infrastructure offers numerous winter activities, nightspots and generally fun activities. Needless to say most hotels offer complete spa treatments and some have created wellness packages ranging from a few days to a full weeks of decadent pamering.

I would suggest staying at the Hotel Courmayeur, Via Roma n°158 11013 Courmayeur (AO), if this is an adult vacation. For a family the Dolonne, Via della Vittoria n° 62 - Loc. Dolonne 11013 Courmayeur (AO), is a perfect spot. For those who may want to spend more time alone, with a great view the hotel Mont Blanc Village, Loc. La Croisette 36 11015 La Salle (AO) is definitely the way to go.

This is one of the reasons the rich and famous make Courmayeur one of their must visit destinations during the year. For the holidays, Courmayeur is going all out, a fireworks display on the 30th and every hotel is throwing some type of party. Food is an important part of any quality vacation. Courmayeur offers a selection of restaurants from fine and fancy dining to mountaineer trattoria. The area produces an frizzy Chardonnay that goes extremely well with the Fontina and Saouceusse e bdeun, a local version of dried meats.

It would be sin not to speak of the wide range of winter sports. There are instructors, classes and entire schools dedicated to Downhill skiing, cross country, snowboarding, ice climbing, and off trail. There are 25 slopes within a few minutes by bus. The courses offered go from novice to professional. This is the opportunity to learn from the best in the world and perhaps participate in some friendly competition.

Evenings in Courmayeur are no less exhilarating than the day on the slopes. Hot chocolate sipped gently in front of a full wall fireplace quickly turns to Caffe Valdostano. Dinner and Dancing are also part of the everyday activities so rest well before thinking about a vacation in Courmayeur. Finally Courmayeur is romantic. Whether it is your first trip with your partner or you have been together for a lifetime, Courmayeur is passion. It is your dream of cuddling on a cold winter’s night. It is beautiful people living the best of life. It is peace of the soul.

Tags: Winter Vacations Courmayeur Valle D'Aosta Skiing Hotels Travel Italy

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Caffe Valdostana – Coffee from Valle d’Aosta and the Friendship Cup

Christmas Traditions and Winter Holidays sometimes become confused. The Coppa dell’Amicizia, Friendship Cup, is an antique after dinner tradition of this region hidden in the Italian Alps. Traditionally Caffe Valdostana is served only in the winter months.

The birth of this specialty is accredited to the "Marroniers" or "Soldats de la neige" of Saint Rhemy En Bosses who patrolled the mountains of the Gran San Bernardo from 1100 through 1930. These mountain soldiers acted as guides and offered refuge to travelers. Caffe Valdostana became a tradition because not just the soldiers needed extra energy to fight the cold and hostile environment. This coffee was the favorite of lumberjacks, miners, bricklayers and farmers who would prepare a pot of Caffe Valdostana, or simply with grappa, for a nice pick me up during the cold winter days.

There were numerous other coffee drinks around at the time but Caffe Valdostana was the favorite. Passed down from generation to generation each family developed their own special recipe. Other than the basic ingredients listed here there are numerous other things that can be added to the basic recipe. Cognac, Rhum, Genepy, Plum Grappa, Butter and Orange peel are some of the ways to personalize your caffe Valdostana.

This hot coffee drink has its own way to be served. The Friendship cup is a hand carved wooden cup. The cup has numerous spouts. The Caffe Valdostana is prepared, poured into the Friendship cup and the cover placed on. The cup is then passed around and each member of the group drinks from a different spout. The Coppa Amicizia, Friendship cup, is a novelty for Italians across the peninsula. The workmanship is unique and the cups are purchased as collector's items or as decorative objects to be shown off with pride.

The tradition requires that the each individual of the group must continue to drink a small amount of coffee from the Coppa Amicizia. The cup is then passed to the next individual in turn. This continues until all the coffee is consumed. While there is Caffe Valdostana the cup must never be put down. There is also a saying, “He who drinks Caffe Valdostana alone, will choke.”

Ingredients:

2 cups long coffee. I make a “6 cup Moka” and add boiling water to make up the difference.
¾ cups strong Grapa, at least 45% per volume, preferably from Valle d’Aosta
¼ cups Genepy or Cointreau (some areas use red wine)
2 tbsp sugar
Orange Peel

Preparation:

Place all the ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil. Pour into the Coppa Amicizia.


Wet the rim of the spouts with Grappa. Crust the rim of the spouts with sugar. I use a teaspoon with sugar and quickly press it on the rim. Light the Caffe Valdostana. Allow the alcohol to burn until the sugar caramelizes. Cover the opening with its top and drink hardy!


Tags: Valle d'Aosta Coppa Amicizia Caffe Valdostana Gourmet Coffee Grappa Friuli Italian Holiday Traditions Food and Wine Travel Italy

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Asiago – Not just Cheese!

Italian Christmas traditions vary from region to region just as their culture, food and wine. Asiago is best known outside of Italy for the flavorful cheese that carries its name. Asiago is located on the high plains in the Province of Vicenza between the rivers Brenta and Astico. At an altitude of 1000 meters above sea level the plain precipitate on the Northern and Eastern borders into the Valley Valsugana.

The high Plains of Asiago are formed like a shell. The seven towns of Roana, Rotzo, Lusiana, Conco, Gallio, Foza and Enego are protected from the winter winds by the mountain range that reaches heights of 2,341 meters. The sun shines brightly on the snow covered lands for 8-9 hours a day during the winter months. It is the image of every winter snow crystal. Tranquility abounds as the snow sparkles in the day’s light.

The history of Asiago is closely tied to wars and the defense of the Italian Penisula. Castles from centuries past and fortifications of wars as recent as WWII are open to visitors. The city is also home to the astrological observatory built in 1942 to celebrate the passing of Galileo, 300 years earlier. The night is so clear that two major telescopes were added in 1956 and 1965. The final and most impressive telescope, with a diameter of 182 cm., was added in 1973.

Asiago is Christmas from November through February. Evergreens covered in snow. Mountain homes with ice crystals lazily draped down across the windows and doors. Asiago has added a new activity to their Christmas winter attractions. Starting the 3rd of December, Asiago offers Christmas encounters and fairs. Christmas lights and trekking in the heavy snow are weekend activities.

The International Ice Sculpture tournament has found a home from December 16 through January 15. The entire city will be turned into a show as artists create their visions in the squares and along the boulevards of the city’s center.

Christmas Eve is celebrated in the Duomo at 11 pm as the city’s inhabitants await the festivities of the birth of Christ. Babbo Natale (Santa Claus) and the Chorus of Asiago are the attractions of Christmas day. The final procession of Father Christmas is an evening stroll with candles through the city’s antique center on December 27.

Asiago is not the first place one thinks of when traveling to Italy. Most likely it does not come to mind however Christmas in Asiago is truly Christmas.

Tags: Italian Christmas Traditions Asiago Vicenza Winter Vacation Alps Ice Sculpture Travel Italy Italian Cheese

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