Pasqua in Italia – Easter Traditions in Italy

The Easter celebrations in Italy are very similar to those practiced in the US. The Easter bunny and Easter egg hunts are not present. Instead the olive branch, and the blessing of the home by the local priest occurs at this time of year. The priest will go door to door with two alter boys and bless each house individually, leaving a blessed olive branch to be hung over the door.

The blessing of the eggs is a widely practiced tradition. The chocolate egg, elaborately decorated, can also be found.

While Christmas is spent at home with family, Easter is an occasion when it is appropriate to celebrate with friends or extended family members. Easter is another occasion to prepare foods that would not be part of the normal diet. Each region has their Easter favorites and some of those are Agnello Cacio e Uova, Capretto, Casatiello, Pastiera, Pizza Rustica, Gubana and Colomba.

Easter is a time of marvelous sweet breads, rich in flavor and symbolism. The Gubana in Friuli, the Casatiello in Naples and the Colomba are all part of this special festivity.

Some areas also have local rituals based on things from their past. In Florence they celebrate the Scoppio del Carro or in Ragusa, Sicily they celebrate the Maronna vasa vasa. No matter where you are Easter is a marvelous occasion to spend time with family and friends.

Tags: Italian Easter Traditions Sicily Friuli Travel Food and Wine Italy

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Casatiello – Savory Easter Bread from Campania

Tradition, faith, and family are expressed in the holiday dishes that are so important in Italian life. Comfort foods express hard times, joyous occasions, and even political situations. A child growing up with these traditions learns history, culture, and an appreciation for life just by growing up and experiencing the family gatherings. Casatiello is an important part of this process in Campania.

Casatiello is full of symbolism both religious and cultural. This Easter bread rolls the dough around salami and cheeses while whole eggs are embraced by laces of bread that hold tight to the main body of the bread. The salami represents an antique pagan ritual where pigs were sacrificed in exchange for fertility of women and the land. Pecorino cheese represents the milk of the lamb or the innocence of Christ. A meal unto itself, this bread is a must in southwestern Italy at Easter.

For two 10 inch tube pans

Note: The cheeses indicated here, are part of the original recipe. Many families have substituted the Provolone with Swiss, Gruyere, Gouda, smoke Scamorza and/or smoked mozzarella. If you decide to make this bread do not substitute white shortening for the pork lard. Natural foods are healthier.

Ingredients for the dough:

1 cup (200 g.) Biga
2 ½ teaspoons (7 g.) active dry yeast
½ cup warm water
1 teaspoon sugar
5 cups (650 g.) unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
2 oz. cold lard, cut into 4 pieces

Preparation of the dough:

In a measuring cup dissolve the sugar in the warm water. Stir in the yeast and let sit for 10 minutes until creamy.

In the primary mixing bowl add the Biga, then pour in the water-yeast mixture and stir through the biga for about 2 minutes.

In a separate bowl put the flour, stir in the salt and the 4 cubes of lard. Squish the lard a bit with your hands to get them distributed and covered with flour.

Finally, stir flour into the biga-yeast mixture. If using a bread mixer allow the mixer to run on lowest speed for about 7 minutes. If working by hand, work until the liquid is distributed then pass to a floured surface and knead for 15 minutes. Be aggressive, this is an important step.

Place in an oiled (olive oil) bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled, about 2 hours. I also cover the bowl with a towel to cut out the light. I know this does little but I feel that yeast grows more evenly and the bread rises more uniformly.

Ingredients for the filling:

4 oz. lard, at room temperature
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup grated Pecorino cheese
¾ cup Provolone cheese cut into small cubes
2 tablespoons freshly ground pepper
¾ cup diced salami
6 uncooked eggs with shells

Note: wash the eggs with warm water and dishwater soap, rinse and pat dry before using.

Preparation of the filling:

Simply mix the ingredients together with a spoon or your hands.

Assembly:

Cut a small handful of dough from the ball and set aside. Cut the remaining dough into two parts. Roll each part into a rectangle about 15 x 11 inches and ½ inch thick. With your hands spread the warm lard over the two pieces of dough. Spread the filling evenly over both pieces of dough. Beginning at the far side roll, the dough toward you. Pinch the seam to close. Place in a 10 inch tube pan or form into a circle on a baking sheet and pinch the seams.

Roll the remaining piece of dough into a 2 grissino 24 inches long. Cut the each roll into six pieces four inches long. Place the eggs evenly on top of the two tubes and press down until about 1/3 of the egg is enveloped by the dough. Using two pieces of the 4 inch rolls crisscross the dough over the top of the eggs and pinch the connections to the tube. Repeat for each egg.

Let rise again for 2 hours.

Baking: Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Place the Casatiello in the oven and immediately raise the temperature to 350 degrees and cook for 1 hour. Cool on a rack. Do not serve until completely cooled.

Wine: This is a “heavy” meal. The wine must be up to the task at hand. I suggest a good Montepulciano d’Abruzzo like Villa Gemma 1997 (Masciarelli), or Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso 2000, or Taurasi Radici 1997 (Mastroberardino)

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Gubana – Holiday Bread from Friuli

Raffaella’s father is from San Daniele del Friuli, known as the home of the best prosciutto crudo. Friuli is the northeastern portion of Italy with influences from both Austria and the Slavic countries. Fruili also has some fantastic wines, including my favorite Refosco. This is the origin of fantastic women, beautiful, hardworking, realistic, intelligent just like my Raffaella. These are hard working people who live in a hard land. Highly seismic, mountains, hills, rocky soil, normal winds that arrive at 100 mph, this area has created some fantastic people, they love their land, their families, their traditions and their wine.

This is the land of coffee made with grappa instead of water and the bianchino, chilled white wine at 7 in the morning. Picolit, the best white grape in the world also is grown in this area. It is also the land of Bacala’, Brovada, and a little known, but fabulous, Easter bread, the Gubana.

Every city, every homemaker, will have the “original” recipe for Gubana and they will differ from town to town however, the origins are widely attributed to Cividale. In 1409 Gubana was listed as part of the menu’ during a dinner sponsored by the city in honor of Pope Gregorio XII. In numerous songs, telling the history of Friuli, the Gubana is mentioned as one of the specialty for celebrations. In many areas, brides will give pieces of Gubana instead of the confetti used in the rest of Italy. Whatever the origin, or the original recipe, this sweet bread will be part of the Easter celebrations.

Ingredients for 2 Gubana

1 cup (130 g.) unbleached all-purpose flour
4 cups (500 g.) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 stick (115 g.) butter at room temperature
3 eggs
8 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
zest of 2 lemons
¼ cup (10 dl.) warm milk
3 tablespoons warm milk
1 ¼ teaspoons salt
3 packages (21 g.) active dry yeast or 100 g. cake yeast
1 tablespoon grappa, cognac or rum

The dough is made in two steps.

Sponge:

Dissolve 1 tablespoon of sugar in the ¼ cup warm milk. Stir in the yeast and allow to sit for 10 minutes. The milk-yeast mixture should be very creamy. Add the yeast-milk to the flour and mix with a spoon. This mixture will be very liquid. Cover with plastic wrap and a towel and let rise for 1 hour.

Dough:

Add the eggs, remaining sugar, 3 tablespoons warm milk, and the grappa to the sponge and stir until smooth. Mix the salt with the flour. Stir in the flour, one cup at a time and keep stirring until smooth. Stir in the lemon zest and vanilla. Finally stir in the butter. Flour your surface generously, flour your hands, and use a dough scraper initially to turn the dough. The dough will be extremely sticky initially. Knead the dough until velvety and supple, at least 10 minutes.

Cover and let rise until doubled. Be patient, this will take at least 3 hours.

Ingredients for the Filling

2 cups (250 g.) crushed walnuts
1/2 cups (50 g.) pine nuts
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup (100 g.) white raisins
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 cup candied citron
zest of 1 lemon
1 egg beaten
salt (just enough)
1/2 cup apricot jam
2 oz. of grappa or cognac
1 1/2 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder
3 tablespoons of sweet marsala

Preparation Filling:

Place the butter in a skillet or sauté pan. When the butter starts to melt, add the pine nuts. Stir together just until the pine nuts begin to turn yellow. Remove from heat.

Place the remaining ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Add the pine nuts and stir together. Let sit for 5 minutes and taste. Add grappa or cognac to achieve the desired flavor.

Assembly and second rise:

Cut the dough in half. Place the dough on a lightly floured and roll into a 18 x 12 inch rectangle. Spread the filling evenly over the two pieces of dough. With the widest edge toward you, roll, from back to front the dough. Pinch the ends to seal the roll. Roll the log into a spiral so it looks like a snail. Place each roll in a well buttered soufle'or baking dish, cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 2 hours.

Baking: Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees. Brush the top of the rolls with egg white and perforate the roll in several places with a skewer to release the air that may have formed air pockets. Place in the oven and cook for 25 minutes. Reduce the heat to 325 degrees and cook for another 25 minutes until deep golden. Remove from the mold, very carefully, and cool on racks. Allow to cool completely before serving.

Serving: Cut into slices. In my father-in-law's town Slivowitz would be poured abundantly over the roll, while other areas will use grappa or rum. With or without this final touch this a great end to an evening meal.

Wine: Picolit or Verduzzo di Ramandolo
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Easter Feast - Agnello Cacio e Uova – Lamb Cheese and Egg Stew

The primary ingredients for an Easter celebration feast are Lamb, symbolism of the sacrifice of God’s son, eggs, representing the rebirth, and vegetables, celebrating spring. This plate from Campania, the region where Napoli is located, incorporates these elements. The recipe also uses a less expensive cut of lamb and is widely accepted as the main course of choice.

I have included spring peas, but any fresh vegetable or bean could be substituted or added, including artichokes, fava beans, asparagus, or string beans. The vegetables will add greater substance to the sauce and will balance the flavor of the lamb.

Lamb is very flavorful and may not be appreciated by all. The balance of the cheese and vegetables in this recipe will make lamb palatable to even the most difficult of critics.

Ingredients:

2 ½ lbs leg of Lamb (butt-end) deboned and cut into 2 inch cubes
1 ½ cups of thinly sliced spring onions or scallions
2 tablespoons of olive oil
½ teaspoon of medium grain sea salt
½ cup dry white wine
1 lbs of peas, artichokes (cut in quarters), asparagus (cut in 2 inch pieces), or small fava beans
3 eggs
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup grated pecorino cheese
Pepper
Juice of 1 lemon
Lemon wedges (2 for each guest)

Preparation:

Preheat a 12 inch iron skillet or sauté pan on medium high heat. Combine the lamb, onions and oil. Sear each side of the lamb, turning constantly. This should take 10 to 15 minutes. Season with salt and pour in the wine and deglaze the juices. Turn the heat to medium low and continue cooking uncovered keeping the liquid at a slow, but constant simmer. Turn the meat regularly. As the liquid reduces add water, one tablespoon at a time. Do not allow the pan to dry completely. Continue for about 45 minutes. The meat should be tender, slightly pink in the center and the liquid should be almost completely evaporated.

Add the vegetables and allow to simmer for another 10 minutes. Continue adding water 1 tablespoon at a time.

While the vegetables are cooking with the meat, beat the eggs and cheese together.

When the vegetables are ready remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the egg-cheese mixture. The eggs will set with the sauce and combine with the hot meat and vegetables. This should only take about 1 minute.

Season with freshly ground pepper and serve immediately with lemon slices.

Wine: I would suggest a Chianti Classico Riserva by Castello di Monastero or a Rosso di Montalcino

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Pastiera Napoletana – Easter Pie from Naples

There are different stories about the origins of the Pastiera Napoletana. Some believe that the pie derives from the pagan spring ritual of the eggs, long before the birth of Christ. The mix of Ricotta cream and wheat germs could be a modification of the wedding bread, “Pane di Farro”, prevalent in the pre-Christ Roman celebrations. Another story tells of how this pie was part of the ritual breads widely used during the period of Constantine by the Christians hidden in the catacombs.

The most probable, and the one I think is more likely, talks about nuns in a monastery, San Gregorio Armeno, outside of Naples. They desired to create a dish that represented the resurrection of Christ. To the white ricotta, symbolizing purity, they added wheat grains that buried in the earth grow in the coming season, the eggs, a symbol of new life, and finally the extract of wild flowers that represents the perfume of spring.

Today, every homemaker in Campania has the original secret recipe for the Pastiera and will defend jealously her recipe. In recent years the eggs have become pastry cream resulting in a smoother and lighter filling, very similar to the cheesecake, widely used here in the US. Additionally, some of the family recipes of the Italian immigrants to the US use rice instead of wheat. This change was required as wheat germ was very difficult to find on the broad market until the 1950s.

The Pastiera has its own poem in the Neapolitan dialect, praising its flavor. The poem tells of King Ferdinand and his wife MariaTeresa of Austria. She was so austere that the guards had named her the queen that never smiles. Ferdinand was just the opposite, joyful, a man who loved food and company. One Easter he convinced his wife to try the traditional Easter pie, and the song tells of how a slight smile appeared on her face. Ferdinand was ecstatic; he hugged his wife and ordered, “Chef, make this Christo dulce more often, lest I have to wait another year to see a smile on my beautiful wife’s face!”

This recipe is for a 12 inch pan however I prefer to use a 10 inch pan with a higher border. The resulting pie has more filling and my friends seem to like that better.

Ingredients for Crust:

4 cups (500 g.) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup (200 g.) sugar
1 7/8 sticks (200 g.) butter
4 egg yolks
Grated zest of lemon from ½ lemon

Preparation of the Crust:

This crust is very similar to the original crust of a cheesecake before the graham cracker version. As with all piecrusts you should work this crust cold and fast. Avoid transferring too much heat from your hands and allow the dough to rest in the fridge while you prepare the filling.

Cut the butter into small pieces. Mix the flour and sugar together. Cut the butter into the flour-sugar mix with a pastry blender or with two knives until the mixture obtains the texture of small peas. Mix the lemon zest with the eggs and stir together with a fork until the yolks are well broken. Slowly add the yolks to the dough, mixing thoroughly. Bring together and knead on a slightly floured surface just until the dough comes together. Roll into a ball, cover with plastic wrap, and place in the icebox.

Note: to prepare cooked wheat. Soak the wheat in water for three days. Change the water in the morning and the evening. Before cooking, rinse and drain the grains. To cook place the wheat in about 5 liters of water, bring to a boil, turn to low heat and allow to simmer for 1 ½ hours. Never stir. Drain excess water.

Ingredients for filling:

24 oz. (700 g.) ricotta
3 cups (600 g.) sugar
400 g. cooked wheat
1/2 cup (80 g.) candied citron peel
1/2 cup (80 g.) candied orange peel
A pinch of cinnamon
3 cups (700 ml) milk
1/4 stick (30 g.) butter
5 whole eggs
2 yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon orange-blossom water
1 lemon

Preparation of the filling:

In a heavy pan place the cooked wheat, the milk, butter, and lemon zest. Over medium heat cook for about 10 minutes, stirring often, until a smooth cream is formed.

Using a mixer, blend the ricotta, eggs, egg yolks, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon and orange-blossom water until light and creamy. Stir in, with a spoon, the candied fruit.

Mix the grain mixture and the ricotta together and set aside.

Turn the oven to 375 and allow to preheat.

Assembly:

Divide the dough into two parts. The first ¾ of the dough and the second the remaining ¼, roll into two balls. On a slightly floured surface flatten, with your hand, the larger ball, to about 1 finger thick. Place a piece of wax paper under the dough and a second piece over the top. Roll the dough to about ¼ inch thick and place in the pie pan. Trim the edges, add back to the smaller ball and roll the remaining dough to about 3/8 inch thickness. With a knife, cut the dough into strips about ¾ inch wide.

Pour the filling into the dough lined pan and smooth. Moisten the dough edges in the pie pan with egg wash or water. Place the strips in a lattice pattern and press the edges to the base.

Place in the preheated oven at 375 degrees (180 F.) for 65-75 minutes. The filling will set like custard and the dough should be golden brown with darker portions.

Cool on a rack.

Serving:

This pie should be prepared at least 3 days before serving. This will allow the natural aromas to amalgamate and distribute evenly through the filling. Cut into triangles and just before serving dust with powdered sugar.

Arancino, orange liquor, is often served. In some areas sweet Marsala will also be used.

Technorati Tags: Easter Celebrations Italian Traditions Italian Easter Napoli Italy

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Easter La Benedizione delle Uova – Blessing the Eggs

My mother in law is from a small town outside of Crema. The Friday before Easter, the families prepare large baskets of boiled eggs. An olive branch is then placed in the center of the basket and off to church. The eggs are blessed in a pompous ceremony and the eggs are then consumed in by the end of Easter Sunday.


Have you ever wondered why eggs are part of the Easter tradition?

Eggs represent Easter all across the world and as a symbol they have been subjected to every sort of esthetic manipulation: they are painted, carved, covered; the basic ingredients have changed such as chocolate and sugar. While the plastic or chocolate eggs are very recent, real eggs, colored or golden have their origins deep in the past.

Eggs have always been a symbol of life. Their importance is seen in pre-Christian beliefs that the earth and the sky were two parts of the same egg and many spring rituals included the egg as a sign of rebirth. When the birds would return, prepare their nests, and lay their eggs it was evident that winter, with its cold, had past.

The Greeks, Chinese and Persians exchanged eggs as part of the spring celebrations, as the Egyptians decorated eggs for the spring equinox, date of their new year, a time when the year was based on seasons. The egg was seen as a miracle not understanding how a new life could be created from such an unusual object. Eggs were considered precious objects with almost magical capabilities. They were buried under the foundations of building to keep evil away, carried in the apron pockets of pregnant women to determine the sex of the unborn child and new brides would walk over eggs before entering their new home.

After the birth of Christian faith, eggs became the symbol of the rebirth, not of nature but of man, with the belief in the resurrection. Just as a small bird escapes from the egg, Christ came out of the tomb.

The symbolism of the egg associated with Easter began in the Renaissance period where eggs were given to children and employees colored eggs on Easter. The bright colored eggs represented the colors of spring and the light of the sun, while the red colored eggs represented the blood of Christ.

The tradition of eggs decorated with jewels and gold was first noted in the accounting books of King Edward the First of England where 18p. were spent for 450 eggs covered in gold as gifts to friends of the court. The most famous were the eggs of Peter Carl Faberge’. In 1833 he received a request from Zar Alessandro to create a special gift for his wife Maria. The first egg prepared by Faberge’ was in platinum, covered with white enamel. The egg opened, revealing a gold egg that when opened contained a small bird and miniature of the crown.

Tags: Easter Celebrations Faberge Eggs Italian Easter Easter Eggs Italy

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Easter in Modica Ragusa Sicily - Maronna vasa vasa

Sicily is full of tradition and folklore. Easter is no different with celebrations that span the two weeks before Easter Sunday. I found one that I enjoyed immensely. Sicily has been conquered several times and assimilated cultures of both the European and Arab worlds. This is a proud people, extremely strong in their culture; they seem to be interwoven with the land itself.



The festivities of the Maronna Vasa Vasa, in local dialect the “Madonna that finds her son”, spreads throughout the city and enveloping all present. Early Sunday morning the statue of Christ is brought out of the church Santa Maria and a procession carries him through the city. The Madonna is brought out half an hour later wearing a black robe. Another procession forms and carries her through the city looking for the Christ.
Children are excited, waiting at their windows. The sounds of the ever growing fill the streets. “Mamma, ci sono!” They’re here! Mamma let’s go. The onlookers join with the processions as they pass. The banker, the politician, the factory worker, the homemakers, all are equal as they celebrate their traditions. The band plays, the priests lead the group and they wind through the city. Dresses bought just for Easter, as each person dresses their best. Flowers are laid before the Madonna that searches every corner of the city.

Exactly at noon the two meet in the piazza in front of the church. The black robe is thrown off and doves with blue ribbons are released. The crowd cheers in unison as the Madonna kisses her son. Easter has arrived, and the families return to their home to feasts of traditional foods.

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Easter in Florence – Scoppio del Carro

Florence is a beautiful city any time of the year. It has just about everything you could want from a vacation destination, good food, great wines, art, culture, fashion and literature. This antique city is rich in tradition and Easter is no different. The “Scoppio del Carro” reminds the Florentines of their past military prowess and deep religious roots dating back to the birth of the Catholic church.

The “Scoppio del Carro”, exploding cart, dates back to the times of the first crusade to the holy lands, 1099 AD. This crusade was to liberate the holy sepulture from the pagans. Goffredo di Buglione, Duke of “bassa Lorena”, laid siege to the city. Pazzino dei Pazzi was the first soldier to climb the city walls and held the Dukes banner for all to see. For this act of courage the Duke rewarded the soldier with 3 pieces of rock from Christ’s tomb.

Upon returning to Florence in 1101, the captain was greatly honored. Originally the relics were held in the church Santa Maria Sopra a Porta in Mercato Nuovo, later transferred the church San Biagio until it was closed in 1785. The relics were then transferred to the church Santi Apostoli where they still are protected today.


Originally on the Saturday before Easter Sunday, the Bishop would light a fire with sparks from the holy rocks, torches would then be carried throughout the city lighting a fire in every home. The burning flame would purify the home and those who dwelled there.

Over the years the celebration became more elaborate and festive. In the 1300s the torches were substitutes with a cart that would carry the holy fire in procession through the city. Shortly thereafter the fire became a fireworks display. The rights to lighting the celebration and the entire cost were on the Pazzi family. Since the cart would be nearly destroyed every year by the fires and fireworks, in 1494, the family decided to build an indestructible cart. This cart is still in use today, even though it has been restored several times in the past 500 years.

Presently, on Easter morning, the parade begins in piazzale del Prato. Pulled two white bulls, the cart is accompanied by military personnel, the city’s band, and the flag team of the “Calcio Storico Fiorentino”, the group Historic Soccer of Florence. The cart, named the “Brindellone”, moves through the streets of the city to the piazza del Duomo, between the “Battistero” and the Cathedral. The bulls are quickly moved away from the cart and a wire is drawn from the center of the choir to the cart.

While the cart is being prepared, the procession begins in piazzale del Limbo where the standards of the city of Florence and of the Pazzi family parade with religious and civic leaders to the Battistero where the Mass will be held. After Mass, at exactly 11:00, the choir begins singing “Excelsis Deo” and the dove, actually a rocket make to look like a dove, is lit. The screaming rocket flies along the wire to the cart and, if all goes well, the fireworks begin.

The cart is a mass of exploding bombs and rockets firing into the air. This symbolizes carrying the fire to the entire city, blessing and purifying the homes of Florence. Smoke envelopes the cart and the entire square as a kaleidoscope of colors pour from all sides of the cart.

The celebration of “Scoppio del Carro” is an attraction that brings tens of thousands of people to Florence every year from all over the world. It is an example of how culture and history are absorbed by the inhabitants of an area creating a link between the past and the present. Who we are, our faith, our paganism, our wars, our hopes, and our humanity are all rolled up into an Easter celebration, this is an appointment not to miss.

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Pane alle Olive – Italian Olive Bread

This bread is primarily made in southern Italy and on the islands of Sicily and Sardegna. Its unique capability for remaining fresh for long periods of time makes this bread a favorite in the warmer areas of the country. The high percentage of olive oil and the oil released by the olives during the cooking process helps preserve this bread for long periods of time.

Prepared all year long in southern Italy, olive bread gains popularity during the Easter season in the North. It is a great compliment to the lamb and fish dishes prepared for the holiday feast. Should some of the bread not be consumed during the meal, something highly unlikely, place it in a paper bag. It will maintain its freshness for several weeks.


Ingredients:
200 g. Biga
1 teaspoon (7 g.) active dry yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
Note: you can make this bread without Biga, to do so increase the amount of active dry yeast to 3 ½ teaspoons (24 g.)
1/3 cup olive oil
1 cup warm water
12 oz. (350 g.) pitted olives washed and drained (black or green as desired)
3 ¾ cups (500 g.) unbleached all-purpose flour (additional for kneading process)
1 ½ teaspoons (8 g.) salt

Preparation:

Dissolve the sugar in the warm water. While stirring add the yeast to the water. Let sit for 10 minutes until the mixture is creamy.

Place the Biga in a mixing bowl. Pour the water-yeast over the Biga and mix with a metal spoon. Mix the salt with the flour. Pour the flour over the Biga. Add the olive oil and pitted olives. Mix with a dough hook for 8-10 minutes.

Finish kneading by hand. Add flour as needed. Place in a large oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and allow to rise until doubled. This will take about 2 hours.
Shaping and Second Rise:

Cut into 16 pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and place 8 rolls, forming the circumference of a circle, on an oiled baking pan about 1 ½ inches apart. Repeat with the remaining balls on a second pan. Cover with a damp towel and allow to rise for 1 hour.

Baking:

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Bake for 35-40 minutes or until medium brown. Cool on racks.

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Colomba – Italian Easter Sweet Bread from Milan

The Colomba, or dove, is also known as the dessert of peace. The image of the dove dates from the time of Noah when, after the great flood, a dove appeared with an olive branch tucked in its beak signaling that land was near by and the odyssey was over.

In 750 AD, a pastry chef from Pavia (just outside of Milan) created this sweet bread in the form of a dove and offered it, as a sign of peace to the King of the Longobardi, Alboino who was burning the cities that had resisted his takeover of the region. This humble gesture touched the king who ended the campaign of destruction.

Another legend indicates that as part of the tribute that the cities were required to pay a young girl was also required as a bed maid. Of the twelve girls one, a pastry chef from Pavia, brought with her eggs, flour, sugar, candied fruits and almonds. Before being called to the king’s chambers she prepared a sweet bread in the form of a dove. The king ate the dessert and liked it so much that he freed her and made Pavia his capital.

Whether this be case or not, the Colomba is now integrated into the traditions of all Italian families. It is often offered as a present between friends and is an acceptable gift should you be invited over for the Easter dinner. This bread is prepared during the period of Lent and disappears immediately following Easter.

Ingredients:

Sponge
3 ½ teaspoons active dry yeast or 24 grams of fresh yeast
1 tablespoon sugar
¾ cup warm milk
8 egg yolks
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour

Dissolve the sugar in the warm milk, while stirring add the yeast. Allow to stand for about 10 minutes. Pour the milk-yeast into a mixing bowl, stir in the egg yolks. Finally stir in the flour until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled, about 30 minutes.

First Dough
1 teaspoon active dry yeast or 7 grams fresh yeast
5 tablespoons warm water
1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons (45 grams) softened unsalted butter
1 ½ cups (200 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour

Dissolve the sugar in the warm water, while stirring add the yeast. Allow to stand for about 10 minutes until creamy. Stir the yeast into the sponge. Stir in the butter and finally the flour. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled, about 1 ½ - 2 hours.

Second Dough
½ cup sugar
1 ½ teaspoons vanilla extract
1 stick (115 grams) of unsalted butter, room temperature
2 cups (250 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (150 grams) candied orange peel

Add the sugar, vanilla, and butter to the first dough. Mix until smooth. Mix the salt and flour together. Add the flour-salt mix to the dough, one cup at a time. Continue stirring until a soft dough is formed. Knead on a floured surface until a soft, but elastic, dough is formed, about 10 minutes. Place in a buttered bowl, cover with plastic wrap and allow to rise until tripled, about 3 ½ hours.

Shaping
Place the dough on a floured surface. Cut in half and gently flatten each piece of dough. Sprinkle and pat down the candied orange peel over the two pieces of dough. Roll each piece into a log. Gently flatten again and then roll into two logs, one about 10 inches and the other about 7 inches long. Place the 10 inch log in the center of a baking pan. Place the second log across the first forming a cross. Bend the two ends of the cross bar toward the bottom forming the dove wings.

Topping
1 egg yolk, beaten
½ cup (100 grams) almonds
¼ cup (50 grams) sugar

Brush the dough with the egg yolk. Distribute the almonds across the surface and pat lightly. Sprinkle the sugar over the entire surface. Cover with a slightly damp towel and let rise for 2-3 hours.

Baking
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place the Colomba in the oven. After 10 minutes reduce the heat to 350 degrees and bake for 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack. Allow to cool completely before serving. Once cool you may sprinkle with powdered sugar if desired.

An appropriate wine with this Easter bread would be Moscato d’Asti, Moscadello or Spumante.

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