Things to do in Venice Summer 2007 –San Lazzaro degli Armeni

The biennale of Venice gets under way this week. If you are not into sitting through numerous several hour showings of “Artistic” films you will be looking for other things to do while visiting the romantic city of Venice.

How about a ride on a motorboat to the island of San Lazzaro degli Armeni?

The island is located in the lagoon of Venice and inhabited by Monks. In reality, the monastery is the only thing that is on the little island. The building and gardens are tediously perfect, beautiful and balanced in color and form. The monastery is open to the public from 15:00-17:00 (that is 3-5 pm for our American readers) every day and is worth a visit. It is a bit different than everything else in Venice. While the monks charge a fee to visit the monastery, the funds are used for maintenance and charitable work. The monastery is an opportunity to see Venetian architecture without the touristy, pushy atmosphere that penetrates most places in Venice.

San Lazzaro is named after St. Lazarus, the patron saint of lepers. It was a leper colony from the 12th to 16th centuries, then was abandoned until Mechitar fled his Turkish persecutors in 1715 and came to Venice. The Venetian government obligingly gave San Lazzaro to Mechitar, who founded an Armenian order on the island. Mechitar and his 17 monks built a monastery, restored the crumbling lepers' church, and quadrupled the tiny island's area (originally 7000 square meters, or about 1-3/4 acres).

It is also host to a show of XX century artists for the entire summer. Among the many exhibits timed to coincide with the start of the world-renowned contemporary art fair on Sunday, five artists are being celebrated in personal shows exploring different aspects of their work.

The ideas of prolific German artist Joseph Beuys (1921-1986) are the focus of an exhibition opening on June 10 in the Arsenale Novissimo.

Entitled Difesa della Natura - The Living Sculpture (Defending Nature - The Living Sculpture), it is based on a piece of the same name by Beuys, dedicated to promoting human harmony within the universe.

The event runs for 100 days, featuring art, video and conferences with the participation of humanitarian, social and environmental groups.

Curated by Lucrezia De Domizio Durini, the exhibit will be centred on a Living Sculpture created with people of different religious, ethnic and social backgrounds.

The influential ideas of the US conceptual artist Joseph Kosuth (b. 1945) are explored in another show opening June 10.

Entitled Il Linguaggio dell'Equilibrio (The Language of Balance), the exhibit has been designed to reflect the tranquillity of its location, the monastery island of San Lazzaro degli Armeni.

The Monastero di San Lazzaro degli Armeni has an extraordinary collection of treasures, including:

- A 150,000-volume library.

- More than 4,000 Armenian manuscripts, some nearly 1,300 years old.

- A Koran created after the death of Mohammed.

- An Indian papyrus from the 13th Century.

- A Egyptian sarcophagus and mummy from the 15th Century B.C.

- Thrones, tables, statues, paintings, tapestries, gold, silver, jewels, and other items that the monks either bought or received as gifts over the centuries.

Tags: Italian Vacations Island Vacations Agriturismo Venice Travel Italy

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Pizzi di Burano – Linens and Lace Burano Venice

It takes time to create beautiful things. Sometimes it takes decades or centuries of experience passed on from generation to generation. It is a way to see the world. A machine can attempt to copy a work of art but somehow, no matter how perfect the copy, it is still a copy. The final product lacks soul. For many this is not important. All that matters is the look but for those who are looking for meaning in life the human touch makes a difference. The embroidered linens and laces from Burano capture the soul of the artisan. Their designs and workmanship are part of a local culture dating back to the XV century.

A local story tells of a young fisherman cleaning his nets. He finds an intricate weave of dried seaweed entangled in the web. It strikes him so that he is convinced that a mermaid has woven the beautiful design. The young fisherman is soon to be wed and gives his precious find to his bride to be to show his intent. The young girl jealously cares for the gift while her fiancé is out to sea. Day after day she longs for her love. Her only comfort the gift he left.

She realizes that seaweed is a living plant and could easily wither and die thus she decides to recreate this sign of her love with thread and needle. As time passes, the miracle is realized and the Laces of Burano are born.

The laces and embroidered linens of Burano have been part of the ceremonies for the coronation of kings and queens since Luigi XIV when Maria di Tudor and Caterina de’ Medici wore Burano Lace Nets to hold their hair. There are other beautiful laces created in Venice and surrounding area but the Laces of Burano are unique. The knot tied, called the Burano knot, is tied mid air. No, I am not able to show how it is done but it is a wondrous thing to see.

Burano is famous throughout Europe for its excellent craftsmanship. The little island, located in the Laguna of Venice, is also famous for its eclectic colors. Houses of bright reds, blues, oranges and yellow intermingle without any specific order or design evidencing the artist nature part of everyday life. This is a happy town, a marvelous place to visit, and the locals are open and inviting. The foods are those of Venice and the wines marvels of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia. There are local museums and the artisans will allow you to visit their laboratories if scheduled in advance. Your hotel will be able to give you the best contacts and arrange travel.

Tags: Lace Venice Italian Museums Art and Culture Renaissance Travel Italy

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Italian Carnival Festivities, Costumes, and History

The Apostle Paul advised, "When I was a child, I spake as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child: but when I became a man, I put away childish things" (1 Corinthians 13:11). I admit this is not me, I guess I am not a good Christian. I love life, our culture, our history and learning about the things that make us who we are! As I grow older the manly things seem less and less important. The grey hairs on my temples and in my beard must not be a sign of wisdom instead I embrace the fleeting moment that is now.

Carnival is not widely celebrated in the US. The transgression is limited to Mardi Gras in New Orleans, a beautiful city destroyed by Mother Nature and forgotten by many. Others are thinking about stocks, bonds, expanding corporate margins, reducing inventories and labor costs, and Return on Investment. I am thinking about costumes, parades, parties, scintillating conversation, dancing in the streets, eating sweets and pastries made just once a year and drinking Prosecco. The period of Carnival begins with the Epiphany on the 6th of January and lasts through the beginning of Lent, 40 days before Easter. The greatest parties and parades are either on Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, or Fat Thursday.

Carnival is an antique festivity. As most of our contemporary holidays, the Story of Carnival predates the Roman Empire. It is a period of equalization and over the years has even been quite violent. Some of these traditions of Carnival remain part of the celebration today although they have been toned down a bit.

Over the centuries theater characters, called costumes, were introduced. These personalities represent the basic characteristic of the period and the location in which it was created. Again most things, these characters also have a political meaning. The primary costumes are: Pulcinella (Naples), Pantalone (Venice), Balanzone (Bologna), Brighella (Bergamo), Arlecchino (Bergamo), Colombina (Venice), Mamuthones In Mamoiada (Sardegna), Beppe Nappa (Sicily), Meneghino (Milan), Gianduia (Torino) and Stenterello (Florence).

As all things Italian Carnival has its own food, prepared exclusively in this period. There are: Chiacchiere, Cicerchie, Frittelle di mele, Frittelle di Carnevale, Migliaccio, Mini krapfen alla crema, Nastri di Carnevale, Orruviolos, Smacafam, Tortelli di Carnevale alla milanese, and Zeppole. Each pastry or sweet represents the local culture and available ingredients. They are marvelous with local wines and grappa. When they appear Carnival in near. Their flavor is that of their land and they are favorites of children of all ages.

Some cities have well known parades and parties. Carnival in Venice is a voyage to another time. All Italians, from across the world, follow the Carnival in Viareggio. They boast massive parades with floats, costumes from centuries past and parties where the participants can experience the life of nobility.

One of the thing I love about Carnival is the opportunity to be a kid, perhaps walking around with bags of flour or dressing in costume from the 1600s and participating in a night at the King’s court. No matter where you are Carnival can be fun, give in, leave behind the things that make you an adult and embrace your childish desires. Who knows, you may see the world in a different way.

Tags: Holiday Traditions Carnival Costumes Winter Vacation Parades Marti Gras Travel Italy

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The Venice Film Festival – 63rd edition August 30 – September 9, 2006

The 63rd edition of the Venice Film Festival will take place from August 30 to September 9, 2006. It will be articulated according to the established outline: the Venice 63 section will present the films competing for the Golden Lion, some of the most important works of the year will be shown Out of Competition, while Orizzonti will provide a picture of new trends in cinema.

The Biennale di Venezia occurs every two years and is one of the most exclusive film shows exhibiting new and alternative producers from around the world. It is also an opportunity for film producers, actors, critics and film buffs to get together and discuss where things are going in the film industry. It is 10 days of films, showing in numerous theaters, and is probably the only occasion for us to see some of the productions.

If you are planning to visit the Venice Film Festival or are looking for products from Venice our friends from Venice Shopping Net have put together an offer for ViewItaly readers. If you indicate that you heard about their service from this blog they will waive the first year's subscription fee and discount their package prices. It is always helpful to have someone local when travelling and they have put together some interesting services that will help you find the unique products and services you are looking for.

The films competing this year are:

Barbara ALBERT Fallen Austria - 88’
Nina Proll, Birgit Minichmayr, Ursula Strauss

Gianni AMELIO La stella che non c’è Italy, France, Switzerland, Singapore - 103’
Sergio Castellitto, Tai Ling

Darren ARONOFSKY The Fountain USA - 96’
Hugh Jackman, Rachel Weisz

Allen COULTER Hollywoodland USA - 126’
Adrien Brody, Diane Lane, Ben Affleck, Bob Hoskins

Emanuele CRIALESE Nuovomondo (Golden Door) Italy, France - 120’
Charlotte Gainsbourg, Vincenzo Amato, Francesco Casisa

Alfonso CUARÓN Children of Men UK, USA - 114’
Clive Owen, Julianne Moore, Michael Caine

Brian DE PALMA The Black Dahlia USA - 120’
Josh Hartnett, Scarlett Johansson, Aaron Eckhart, Hilary Swank, Mia Kirshner, Mike Starr, Fiona Shaw

Emilio ESTEVEZ Bobby. Work in progress USA - 120’
Sharon Stone, Anthony Hopkins, Demi Moore, Lindsay Lohan, Laurence Fishburne

Stephen FREARS The Queen UK, France, Italy - 97’
Helen Mirren, James Cromwell, Michael Sheen

Mahamat-Saleh HAROUN Daratt Ciad, France, Belgium, Austria - 96’
Ali Barkai, Youssouf Djoro, Hisseine Aziza

Benoît JACQUOT L’intouchable France - 82’
Isild Le Besco, Bérangère Bonvoisin, Marc Barbé

KON Satoshi Paprika Japan - 90’
animazione

Joachim LAFOSSE Nue propriété Belgium, Luxembourg, France - 92’
Isabelle Huppert, Jérémie Renier, Yannick Renier

ÔTOMO Katsuhiro Mushi-shi Japan - 131’
Joe Odagiri, Makiko Esumi, Nao Omori

Alain RESNAIS Private Fears in Public Places France, Italy - 120’
Lambert Wilson, Sabine Azema, André Dussollier, Laura Morante, Pierre Arditi, Isabelle Carré

Jean-Marie STRAUB, Danièle HUILLET Quei loro incontri Italy, France - 68’
Angela Nugara, Vittorio Vigneti, Grazia Orsi

Johnnie TO Exiled Hong Kong, China - 98’
Francis Ng, Nick Cheung, Simon Yam, Anthony Wong

TSAI Ming-Liang Hei yanquan (I don’t want to sleep alone) Taiwan, France, Austria - 115’
Kang-Sheng Lee, Shiang-Chyi Chen, Atun Norman

Paul VERHOEVEN Zwartboek Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, UK - 135’
Carice van Houten, Thom Hoffman, Sebastian Koch, Halina Reijn

Ivan VYRYPAEV Ejforija Russia - 74’
Polina Agureeva, Maxim Ushakov, Mikhail Okunev

Apichatpong WEERASETHAKUL Sang sattawat (Syndromes And A Century) Thailand, France, Austria - 105’
Nantarat Sawaddikul, Jaruchai Iamaram, Sophon Pukanok, Jenjira Pongpas

Important films not competing:

Santiago AMIGORENA Quelques jours en Septembre France, Italy - 112’
Juliette Binoche, John Turturro, Sara Forestier, Nick Nolte

Kenneth BRANAGH The Magic Flute UK - 135’
Joseph Kaiser, Amy Carson, Benjamin Jay Davis, Lyubov Petrova, René Pape

FENG Xiaogang Yeyan China, Hong Kong - 131’
Ziyi Zhang, Ge You, Daniel Wu

David FRENKEL Devil Wears Prada USA - 110’
Meryl Streep, Anne Hathaway, Emily Blunt, Stanley Tucci

Pavel LOUNGUINE Ostrov Russia - 112’
Petr Mamonov, Dmitry Dyuzhev, Viktor Sukhorukov

David LYNCH Inland Empire USA - 168’
Laura Dern, Jeremy Irons, Justin Theroux, Julia Ormond

MIYAZAKI Goro Gedo senki Japan - 115’
animazione

Manoel de OLIVEIRA Belle toujours Portugal - 68’
Michel Piccoli, Bulle Ogier

Oliver STONE World Trade Center USA - 129’
Nicolas Cage, Michael Pena, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Maria Bello

Jaume BALAGUERÒ Para entrar a vivir Spain - 68’
Macarena Gómez, Adrià Collado, Nuria González, Ruth Díaz

CHAN Benny Rob-B-Hood Hong Kong, China - 134’
Jackie Chan, Louis Koo, Michael Hui

FAZLI Bayram Baaz ham sib daari? Iran - 90’
Zabih Afshaar, Leila Mousavi, Ali Yaagoubi

KUROSAWA Kiyoshi Retribution (Sakebi) Japan - 103’
Kôji Yakusho, Manami Konishi, Hiroyuki Hirayama, Joe Odagiri

Neil LABUTE The Wicker Man USA - 97’
Nicolas Cage, Molly Parker, Ellen Burstyn, Leelee Sobieski

RYOO Seung-wan Jakpae (The City of Violence) South Korea - 92’
Ryoo Seung-wan, Jung Doo-hong, Lee Bum-soo

Piotr UKLANSKI Summer Love Poland - 93’
Boguslaw Linda, Karel Roden, Katarzyna Figura, Val Kilmer

Tags: Venice Film Festivals Biennale Movies Art and Culture Renaissance Travel Italy

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Carnevale di Venezia – Carnival in Venice Part II

Carnivale di Venezia - Part I

The electronic key lock to open the heavy wooden doors of the hotel room always strikes me as a bit out of place. I push the door open for Raffaella and hear a gasp. In the middle of the parlor hanging on a bellhops cart is this stunning gown. The cobalt blue bell gown tapers into the bee’s waist bustier, trimmed with gold and grey rope trim to be tightened with a white silk latch up the back. This outfit is completed by a pearl laced hair net. For the outdoor travel, a black wool and silk, belled cape is supplied. The costume is in perfect harmony with the heavy wood trim, Victorian furniture, and thin striped silk wallpaper.

Hanging insignificantly next to the gown are silver knickers, an open black satin jacket, and a fluffed white silk shirt with a pair of heavy black shoes that could have been worn by Benjamin Franklin. Two porcelain full face masks and white wigs are on the center table.

Raffaella runs to the bellhop’s stand, but stops short of pulling the dress off the hangers. Slowly she runs her hands over the velvet and turns the dress 360 degrees taking in every inch of the workmanship. As she lifts up to remove the dress I can tell she is having some difficulty. The entire thing surely weighs at least half her total weight. I put the dress on the couch and start laying out the other pieces in succession. This outfit is extremely complex, it must have taken 3 people to put it on properly but we are happy to begin our endeavor.

I am amazed at the end result, although I know it is Raffaella, if I were to meet her on the street without having seen the preparation process I would not have recognized her. This gives a new meaning to dressing up. The evening has all of the premises of a magical experience.

The motor-taxi has arrived to take us to the ball. In Venice a motor-taxi is a motor-boat with a taximeter. The boat itself is a work of art. These are entirely hand made wooden boats finished out as well as a luxury yacht. We choose to stay inside the covered area to avoid loosing the wigs, perhaps another gondola ride would have been more appropriate but it was quite the emotion whipping through the canals of Venice.

Palazzo Dandolo has been a place of encounters since the early 1600s when it was the first hall to offer gaming rooms (that is gambling). It was the hunting grounds for many a noble including the infamous Giacomo Casanova who considered the Palazzo Dandolo as his favorite backdrop for amorous endeavors. This building is a work of art in every angle. The main hall is a 3 story atrium with a balcony, walkway around the upper floor, and numerous sitting rooms. The center area covered by an elliptical domed ceiling with plaster decorations. Around the center open area, supporting the walkway and balconies, numerous white marble columns, separating the center area from the surrounding spacious, but more private, sitting areas on the ground floors. The walls are covered with unique murals and each area has arched statue areas protecting various sculptures.

A string orchestra is positioned in one of the sitting areas and is playing Strauss as we arrive. At the opposite side of the central area a stage is set where actors are preparing for the theatrical presentation scheduled immediately after dinner.

A smorgasbord of dried meats, fish pate’ and spumante start the evening. The tables are colorful. Each table seats 12 nobles in costume. An opportunity to chat preludes the feast that has been carefully prepared. A traditional soup made with various vegetables begins the gluttonous event. Behind their masks, the unrecognized flirt, chat, and generally engage in provocative discourse.

The main course is beef and pork. This derives from the Serenissima Republic when Ulrico, an ally of Pope Adriano IV, took advantage of the war between Venice and Padova to assist the rebellion of 12 feudal lords attacking Grado. Grado fell and forced the Patriarch, Enrico Dandolo, to flee. The response of Venice was swift. Venice sent her powerful float to Grado and humiliated the Ulrico’s forces and brought the 12 feudal leaders and Ulrico to Venice to be judged. Their lives were saved through intervention of the Pope however Venice demanded, and received, homage from the Pope of 1 bull and 12 fattened pigs every year on Fat Thursday. The pigs, representing the 12 feudal leaders, and the bull, representing Ulrico, were then decapitated by a single swoop of the blade and the meat distributed to the people of Venice. This gave origin to a popular saying in Italy, “Tagliare la testa al Toro”, which means to eliminate a problem with one dominating action.

Sausage, cotechino, braciole, roasts, stews fill the tables. Red wines from Collio and Veneto abound, including my favorite Refosco. Mixing and mingling, switching tables, joining old friends and making new ones continues. Mischievous phrases and sensual attitudes are encouraged by the guise of anonymity and the party moves on. As the cheeses and fruit arrive the orchestra is playing the Waltzes.

Comfortable chairs have been situated in the center hall facing the stage where the story of “Casanova in Istanbul” will be played. An interpretation of due respect with historical references and the occasional Venetian dialect is enacted before us. This is a story of cunning, intelligence, beautiful women, romance and an offended party. This has all the basics of a box office hit, “Sex, Violence, and Romance”. An outrageous applause completes this segment. We move to taste the desserts, something very difficult by this time as both of us are wearing a 1500 girdle, and refill the wine.

Raffaella is arduously engaged in conversation with duke of something or other. He is attempting to get her to remove her porcelain mask. This would be a great conquest as it would show that she is comfortable with him. The Waltz plays again. I excuse myself with the insistent admirer and Waltz my Dama to the central floor. The chairs have been cleared, the music is playing and nobles, duchesse and princes are gleefully prancing across the room. Colors streak and blur and the Waltz continues, flowing gowns seem to be streams gurgling, mighty dukes hold their heads high and arch their backs while they support their companions who glide sinuously around the room.

Time has passed, numerous interruptions due to a gentlemen’s or ladies insistence to dance have kept us to early in the morning. Soon the sun will rise on another marvelous day in Venice but for us it is time to begin Lent. Sleeping for the next twelve hours should be a good start.

Tags: Venice Venezia Carnevale Veneto Travel Italy

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Carnevale di Venezia – Carnival in Venice Part I

When we think of Carnival, we think of Rio with its parades and beautiful dancers or Marti Gras in New Orleans with its festivities however Carnival in Italy has deep roots and traditions. In fact it is a Catholic holiday marking the beginning of Lent. It is a final moment of celebration where just about anything permitted before 40 days of contrition. When the Catholics immigrated to various parts of the world they brought their traditions with them.

All of Italy celebrates Carnival and not in the ways you may think. This is an antique celebration, full of tradition, beautiful women and folkloristic customs. Venice is by far my favorite of all of the locations.

I called for breakfast in the room. Raffaella enjoys sleeping in, but as soon as she awakes wants to have breakfast. A cup of hot water with half a lemon, two carafes of espresso, hot milk and some sweets.

It is chilly, probably seventy degrees in the room but the humidity from the sea penetrates your bones. The bathrobes are inviting, draped over the heating elements, they are toasty warm.

As I start sipping my coffee, it takes 2 or 3 doubles before I get going, the bells from one of the local churches start ringing. Most of Italy has installed the electronic bells system but these are the real thing. Deep, clear tones, cadenced intermittently by joyous high notes permeate the walls. Raffaella slumbers into the parlor through the double doors that separate the bedroom and cuddles me a bit on the Victorian couch before settling down in the heavy upholstered for breakfast.

As we stroll into Piazza San Marco the song “Baby, it’s cold outside” repeats over and over again in my head. A double-breasted suit, heavy wool overcoat and scarf are not enough to compensate for the humidity that penetrates deep in your bones. As the sun rises the temperature is becoming more bearable. The only thing I can think of is getting something to warm my bones. We find a café and order a China Caldo, liquor made from artichokes and steamed with an espresso machine.

Piazza San Marco is brimming with movement and colors. Carnival, almost eliminated in the period from 1774 to 1970 by a law prohibiting the use of masks, has become again a festive occasion and Piazza San Marco is the center of the activities. Children, of all ages, are out in full force. Elaborate costumes from the Serenissima are predominant. The numerous quarters of Venice participate with standards, gondolas, and theatrical skits. Women in luxurious velvet gowns, hats and masks scurry in and around the columns of Palazzo Ducale while the dignitaries, dressed in medieval garb are accommodated under the Campanile di San Marco. Were it not for the metal chairs and tables at the café it would be difficult to determine that we were actually in the twenty-first century.

I can see a hot platter of Chiacchere or Crostoli as they are called in Venice. Fried pastry pasta covered in powdered sugar. The sweets are made only during Carnival and are incredible. I would not eat them all year long but once a year is a tradition worth renewing. No lunch today, we are attending a dinner dancing party to celebrate the end of Carnival and there will be enough food for 10 days so a plate of Chiacchere is perfect with a hot chocolate. The hot chocolate is rich and dense. Made from Cocoa and milk, heated with the steam compressor from the espresso machine this is like drinking molten dark chocolate. As I sip on this chocolate delight I can feel my face flush and am warmed from the insight almost to a sweat.

The parade of the costumes has begun. Vibrant colors, heavy cotton woven bell gowns, brilliant silk patterns, white powdered faces, exuberant wigs and elaborate masks evidence the great wealth and power of the Serenissima regime. Men in tights, heavy velvet jackets, silk fluffed shirts with white wigs compliment the voluptuous women that represent this time. The explosion of colors overcomes the senses as the grand finale in a fourth of July fireworks display. Thousands of Veneziani represent the various periods and quarters of Venice.

The coronation of the parade is celebrated by the “Flight of the Doves”. Originally this was the “Flight of the Turk”. Tradition indicates that in the late 1500s, Turkish acrobats were brought in to perform during the month of Carnival. A young Turk, to accentuate the dominance of his family, walked a rope from the ground to the top of the tower of San Marco and back again. Today the flying acrobats are dressed as angels and doves and perform the same feat. Breathtaking is the speed with which they glide over the ropes and above the crowd.

As the sun begins to set, the air cools. It would be time to return to the hotel to prepare for our evening activities, but the day brought one emotion after another, with visions of long past times and futures yet to be discovered. I take Raffaella by the hand and quickly head toward the small port, more like a series of small piers, at the entrance to the Piazza. A tour of the city in the gondola is just what we need. An elderly gentleman, his face ravished by the elements but gentile, stands in his traditional attire at the rear of his sky-blue and white boat. He pulls out a heavy wool blanket as we huddle together just in front of him.

We remain silent, passing the many suggestive scenes in the canals of Venice. The boat slides through the water silently. The water lapping against the sides of the boat are the only sounds as the gondoliere propels the gondola through the canals with the gondolier’s long poll. Ponte Sospiri, Ponte Rialto, and other points of interest that have been heralded through the years in literature and paintings appear before us and quietly slip away. Livio, our gondoliere, has been doing this for 40 years, his father had been a gondoliere as his grandfather. He spoke with pride, and a bit of sadness, as he explained that his sons had gone to University, one was a lawyer and the other a doctor. As we approached various landings along the canals he would tell us about the family that owned that building or some other story about how that particular place had been important in history. Too quickly our tour was over. Livio had brought us directly to the hotel and while we wished him farewell, much to our surprise, he hugged us and exchanged the traditional Italian kisses on the cheek.

The hotel is warm and bustling with people dressed in costume. Before changing our dress, before dinner drinks are customary. The hotel’s bar is a celestial haven. The ceiling is a stained glass depiction of past times, crystal chandeliers with hand blown Murano glass stems in the shapes of Tulips and other flowers. Walls usually finished in dark wood or marble are depictions in stained glass of the Serenissima period. Raffaella orders a Prosecco while I request a Johnny Walker Blue with a glass of cold water. This environment is lively and relaxing. Huge armed chairs with antique parlor tables adorn the room. We discuss the days activities and although we spend most of our time together it seems that we never run out of things to say.

A beautiful day but the evening holds a whole new Carnival di Venezia. Continua…

Tags: Venice Venezia Carnevale Veneto Travel Italy

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