Monday, January 08, 2007

Italian Carnival Festivities, Costumes, and History

The Apostle Paul advised, "When I was a child, I spake as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child: but when I became a man, I put away childish things" (1 Corinthians 13:11). I admit this is not me, I guess I am not a good Christian. I love life, our culture, our history and learning about the things that make us who we are! As I grow older the manly things seem less and less important. The grey hairs on my temples and in my beard must not be a sign of wisdom instead I embrace the fleeting moment that is now.

Carnival is not widely celebrated in the US. The transgression is limited to Mardi Gras in New Orleans, a beautiful city destroyed by Mother Nature and forgotten by many. Others are thinking about stocks, bonds, expanding corporate margins, reducing inventories and labor costs, and Return on Investment. I am thinking about costumes, parades, parties, scintillating conversation, dancing in the streets, eating sweets and pastries made just once a year and drinking Prosecco. The period of Carnival begins with the Epiphany on the 6th of January and lasts through the beginning of Lent, 40 days before Easter. The greatest parties and parades are either on Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, or Fat Thursday.

Carnival is an antique festivity. As most of our contemporary holidays, the Story of Carnival predates the Roman Empire. It is a period of equalization and over the years has even been quite violent. Some of these traditions of Carnival remain part of the celebration today although they have been toned down a bit.

Over the centuries theater characters, called costumes, were introduced. These personalities represent the basic characteristic of the period and the location in which it was created. Again most things, these characters also have a political meaning. The primary costumes are: Pulcinella (Naples), Pantalone (Venice), Balanzone (Bologna), Brighella (Bergamo), Arlecchino (Bergamo), Colombina (Venice), Mamuthones In Mamoiada (Sardegna), Beppe Nappa (Sicily), Meneghino (Milan), Gianduia (Torino) and Stenterello (Florence).

As all things Italian Carnival has its own food, prepared exclusively in this period. There are: Chiacchiere, Cicerchie, Frittelle di mele, Frittelle di Carnevale, Migliaccio, Mini krapfen alla crema, Nastri di Carnevale, Orruviolos, Smacafam, Tortelli di Carnevale alla milanese, and Zeppole. Each pastry or sweet represents the local culture and available ingredients. They are marvelous with local wines and grappa. When they appear Carnival in near. Their flavor is that of their land and they are favorites of children of all ages.

Some cities have well known parades and parties. Carnival in Venice is a voyage to another time. All Italians, from across the world, follow the Carnival in Viareggio. They boast massive parades with floats, costumes from centuries past and parties where the participants can experience the life of nobility.

One of the thing I love about Carnival is the opportunity to be a kid, perhaps walking around with bags of flour or dressing in costume from the 1600s and participating in a night at the King’s court. No matter where you are Carnival can be fun, give in, leave behind the things that make you an adult and embrace your childish desires. Who knows, you may see the world in a different way.

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Thursday, February 16, 2006

Carnevale di Viareggio – Carnival in Viareggio

Carnival has different traditions in every city in Italy. In some cities it is Martedi Grasso (Fat Tuesday) while in other cities it is Giovedi Grasso (Fat Thursday) and Milan has its own tradition that extends one day beyond all others. It is said that the Milanese are so boring all year long that they need an extra day to celebrate.

Viareggio is a beautiful seaside city in Tuscany. The climate is mild and it is a great vacation place. The tradition of Carnival in Viareggio is recent, 1873, yet has become one of the most well known celebrations of Carnival in Italy. In the early 1800s Viareggio, a town of 11,000 people, was declared a town of the “United Italy”, freeing it from the rule of Massarosa. To celebrate this new freedom, one day a year on Fat Tuesday, the cities gaming houses were opened up to the locals for festivities in costume.

A group of young nobles were not entirely enthusiastic about the parties with their parents in the casino thus took their carts, filled them with flowers and, together with other youth in costume, paraded around the town. A local newspaper, “Gazzetta del popolo” or “News of the People”, published this innovative idea. Within a few years Carnival in the streets had taken over and parties sprung up across the city. The parades continued until WWII.

Viareggio was occupied by the German army and suffered 56 aerial bombardments. In 1945 the city leaders decided that the rebirth of the Carnival, the masks, and its parades were important to the city’s future. They created a committee to organize the rebirth of the tradition. Within a few years the parades were back in full force.

In 1968, a period of extreme political activism in Italy, the costumes and floats began with a theme of political satire. The popularity of the parades spread throughout Italy and an annual national lottery (worth 5 million Euro) was tied to the Carnival of Viareggio. This event is combined with television shows during the entire month before Fat Tuesday, numerous celebrities participating in the parade, and what was once a one day party now lasts for 5 days. Each day has a different theme and you can find just about any type of after parade party that you might desire.

This is not the “Carnivale of Rio” but is just as exciting and folkloristic, definitely worth a trip. Remember Viareggio is part of Tuscany so the food is marvelous and the wine even better.

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