Wednesday, June 27, 2007

George Clooney designs leather jackets for Belstaff Spring Summer 2008

Men's Fashion week in Milan is almost over. Last night at the Belstaff show many were caught by surprise. A series of leather jackets, designed by George Clooney, was part of the collection. The collection will carry the label “Not on my watch”. It may seem strange for the American heartthrob to design clothes. More importantly, why would an Italian designer allow someone else to design clothes for his line?

There is an underlying theme in everything Italian. That theme is that the value of the individual is more important than things. One of the favorite sayings is, “when you have your health you have everything.” Sure there are Italians who do not value life and get caught up in the keeping up with the Jones but the idea that human life has value is always there. George Clooney and Brad Pit are launching an international campaign to bring awareness of the tragedy in Darfur.

The Not On Our Watch foundation aims to draw attention to crimes against humanity and has recently focused its attention on the situation in the Darfur region of Sudan. The proceeds from the showing of the 'Not On Our Watch' clothes will be donated to the population of Darfur. The cast of Oceans 13 have been campaigning for Darfur for some time and have jointly given $750,000 for humanitarian aid in the troubled region of Sudan.

Still, there is a difference between donating revenues and allowing someone, no matter how famous, to be a guest designer. The line is colonial style leatherwear. George Clooney has a place in Como and spends a significant amount of time in the area. He is also passionate about motorcycles and can often be found riding the winding roads of the hills around Lake Como. The leatherwear is a natural progression for one of his passions. I have not seen the jackets up close but I can only imagine they will be both linear and functional. Perhaps Mr. Clooney has found a new profession. It will be interesting to see if this becomes more than a guest appearance.

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Thursday, June 14, 2007

Men’s Fashion Shows in Milan June 2007

Ladies, if you are interested in statuesque men with marbled features then Milan is the place for you. The 2008 Spring – Summer men’s fashion shows will all be in town during the weekend of the 23rd to the 27th of June. Over 50 designers will be presenting in various locations starting Saturday. I believe my female readers will be interested in knowing that over 5,000 young, very fit, good looking, eligible men will be strolling the streets of Milan and visiting the numerous nightclubs. This is obviously in addition to the great Milanese already in the city.

The 5 day calendar starts Saturday June 23 with Jill Sander at 11 AM. In the same day she is followed by Costume National Homme, Gaetano Navarra, Missoni, Burberry Prorsum, Gianni Versace, J. Lindeberg, Denis Simachev, and the two Belgium designers Les Hommes e Dries Van Noten. The most buzz is about Dries Van Noten, the only first timer of the week.

Sunday the 24th Bottega Veneta, Antonio Marras, Frankie Morello, Gianfranco Ferrè, Salvatore Ferragamo - first time back with men's shows after many seasons - Vivienne Westwood, Carlo Pignatelli Outside, Emporio Armani, Neil Barrett, Daks, Prada and Alexander McQueen hit the runway.

Monday the 25th continues with Dsquared2, Valentino, Dirk Bikkembergs, Alessandro Dell´Acqua, Biagiotti Uomo, John Richmond, Moschino, Krizia Uomo, Gucci, Gazzarrini, Giuliano Fujiwara, Intuitive and Roberto Cavalli.

Tuesday the 26th, second to last day of the show, features Marni, Iceberg, Trussardi, Fendi, Etro, D&G, Messori, Calvin Klein Collection, Giorgio Armani (the only designer with 2 shows at 5 and 6 PM), Belstaff and Haute.

Wednesday the 27th brings only 5 shows: Romeo Gigli, Enrico Coveri, Byblos, M+F Girbaud and, to close, Roen, the Japanese designer.

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Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Armani – Italian Men’s Fashion Spring Summer 2007

The spring is one of my favorite times to change a suit, add a couple of ties, and maybe update my dress shirts. My first review of the spring and summer men’s fashion left me a bit disturbed and I am not the type to run around in Bermuda shorts, kaki pants, or surfer attire. My idea about clothes has always been buy what you like, what expresses your style. Sometimes that will take you into the high end of the price range. In these cases I buy fewer pieces but I always get what I like. This year means that I will be buying a few things from Armani, Valentino, and Canali. Ties obviously will be Versace and perhaps a casual chic shirt or pullover from Trussardi.

In the fray of really eccentric men’s summer fashion Armani’s traditional values of style and grace flow into his designs. Sure there are the shoes with no socks, the jackets that are one size too small and tight knit pullover shirts underneath a gray, pen striped, suit but they do not distract from the underlying quality of materials, clean designs and interesting fabrics. Since my budget will be limited I have divided the designs into the various ways they would be used.

This first group would be great for evening drinks or perhaps those occasions where the dress is casual but you are just not into the kaki lifestyle. The jackets give just a bit of formality and are always a great compliment.

For the casual day, perhaps with a younger crowd, the slacks and pullover are clean looks while not moving standing out as too formal.


Beach bumming or a day on the sailboat with the right crowd could be the opportunity to wear these things. Personally this is not my case. When I go sailing I like to spend times with friends and would never wear anything I had to worry about getting dumped into the water.


When jeans are the choice of the day these slacks with jacket combinations are great. They can easily match with light colored boat shoes or even some low top tennis shoes. Perhaps you want to be the most exclusive at the tennis or soccer match. This is the look for you.


These are my choice for the season. I wear suits just about every day of the year so most of my clothing budget goes toward suits or slacks/jacket combinations. The ladies are also a nice accessory. I wonder of they come with the purchase.

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Monday, February 05, 2007

Italian Men’s Fashion Tendencies Spring/Summer 2007

Men’s Fashion is never as exciting as Women’s Fashion. I can accept that, women just look better in clothes however the 2007 Men’s Spring/Summer lineup is rather blah. In line with the women’s 2007 Spring/Summer Fashion tendencies most designers took a retro look into the 60s, 70s and early 80s. Natural fabrics and neutral colors are the underlying theme. Models without socks, pencil or bellbottom leg pants appear over and over again. Some of the women’s magazines in Italy let their disappoint show through dedicating their comments to the thing that most attracted them, the model’s eyes. Unfortunately that is one accessory we can’t change with the new season.


There are a few standouts in the sea of dull. Armani’s traditional cut with the dark slacks, dark shirt and light jacket will tide us over this year but guys, no matter what seems to be the tendency, do not forget the socks. He incorporates some silks, linens and corduroy fabrics that bring to mind my University professors even though there are not the telltale elbow patches.


Burberry also does exceptionally well since this is pretty much in line with their continuing theme. I will not be wearing their purple overcoat but their active style and some of the reds and blues could have their place when I am in a slightly eccentric mood. They have also introduced the pullover V-neck and the aviators hat. Please do not go for the aviator’s hat; it is very distracting and if I see you I will have a hard time not laughing.


I was hoping that Laura Biagiotti would have been a standout. Her designs are always playful and bright but the arrival of bird flu in Europe must have influenced the balance gene and I just cannot bring myself to like this hodgepodge of geometrical designs and clashing colors. It gives me a headache just looking at them.

Valentino’s classic designs also save him a bit but there is no question that even the greats followed the masses and let their creativity go to places that should never be explored. Please explain to me the sandals. Who in their right mind would wear sandals with a Valentino suit? The suits, without the accessories, are more traditional Valentino, so the cuts are clean and will be fine in most occasions. The fabrics are generally light with hints of pinstripes and some unobtrusive patterns or the neutral natural summer wools and cotton.

The raincoat is present in all the lines. Usually it is extremely bright and shiny vinyl. Bright enough to show up even on the rainiest of days. Wearing one of these jackets people will see your glow long after you have moved out of view. Sure, they could be fun for a day, maybe a week, but for three months one will get tired of these very fast. I see it much like painting your bedroom blood red. Sooner or later you will be losing sleep.

Most of you know that I rarely write about things I do not like or appreciate. Unfortunately, this year has so little to offer that I will try and find the positives in what I consider to be a year of design to forget.

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Tuesday, November 21, 2006

Italian Men’s Fashion Fall Winter 2006-2007 Armani

Commenting on the recent review of Missoni, Lexcen of Watches for the Watch Lover, asked about Armani. I must admit that over the years Armani has been one of my favorite designers of Men’s wear for both formal and casual wear. I do not have that 20something model’s body. I work too much, I play too hard and I love food and wine (of course I also love women but that does not influence the extra pounds I have acquired over the years). Armani has always had a comfortable fit for my body type. This is not true of all designers. Another important factor has also been his ability to match classic grace and style with new colors, fabrics and tendencies.


Armani is the Pat Riley and Phil Jackson. It is the Katie Holmes wedding dress. It is Sean Connery and Elisabeth Taylor. Over time it is one of the designs that has always evidenced royalty, grace and style.

Several years ago, Armani created Emporio Armani. I consider this the Armani collection for the under thirty, young and anti-conformist, man. The fit of the Emporio Armani is also similar to that of other designers. Needless to say, rarely could I find something that I liked and, when I did, I couldn’t get the jackets around my shoulders without popping the seams. Armani’s formal attire is always smart and sleek. It makes even the guys like me almost as good as Sean Connery. While the top line suits and jackets are still part of this year’s collection, Armani decided to introduce the anti-conformist designs into the Armani collection. Most of these I would have expected to see in the Emporio Armani line. Some of them I like, some I consider to be sloppy and mismatched.

I call this the Casual Chic. This is an Italian idiom indicating dressing like a University Professor with a $3,000 jacket. Some it looks really good, unique and intriguing, but for most it is sloppy. I think I am one of the guys who would come off sloppy. The real question is why Armani chose to move this way now. He has always been the bastion of elegance and style. Perhaps it is the aging baby boomer. Some marketing guys may think that the anti-conformist of the sixties will maintain, at least in the subconscious, a desire to be different and to break down the norms and will be willing to spend big bucks to do it.

I cannot say that I do not find some of the new stuff interesting. I can see in certain occasions where a velvet or tweed could be appropriate but I cannot afford to buy a suit to wear it twice a month. If I buy Armani I want to make it work all the time, mix and match, with or without the tie, anti-conformist for me means a midnight blue double-breasted Armani with an orange Trussardi tight knit shirt with no collar. In that occasion I may even put on a 1950s hat with a silk belt around the base.

To sum it up, the collection is interesting, some will even say progressive. The variety spans the entire spectrum from super casual to pure elegance. The original class is still there, just not evidenced and may be on its way out over the next few years.

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Monday, November 20, 2006

Italian Men’s Fashion Fall Winter 2006-2007 Missoni

For some reason Italian Men’s Winter Fashion does not receive the same attention as Italian Women’s Fashion. I agree that women are much nicer to look at and to dress but we men also want to look good, fit and strong. I love cufflinks. I only buy dress shirts with French Cuffs. Even when I am dressing casual I want my casual clothes to look good. Sure jeans and a Tshirt are fun around the house or working in the yard but out and about I want that clean crisp look of a pair of slacks, polished shoes and an ironed shirt.

The professional or office environment offers some unique challenges. Often the air conditioning or heating are blasting making the temperature too cold or too hot. The suit jacket can be uncomfortable when sitting at the desk all day but just shirt may be too little. Additionally, a dress shirt, while nice, does not give that business look I like. I have also been too fat for many years, and seeing the belly bulge is not one of my favorite scenes. I found a fantastic solution many years ago. A tight knot V-neck sweater is perfect. The sweater shows the tie and clean shirt while not showing that bulge just above the belt. It usually does not do much against the cold but in a traditional office is just perfect.

Most often these V-necks will also have a matching Cardigan. So the same V-neck worn with a tie can be used in casual occasions without the tie and putting on the Cardigan. Additional when traveling the V-neck/Cardigan solution is perfect. You can wear the tie, lose it, even if the shirt is wrinkled from sitting too long in the same position it does not show and most importantly you are not there in Khakis and Dockers. This year’s Missoni Men’s Fall Winter collection is based on the V-neck/Cardigan match.

Missoni has developed the Art Deco period theme. These are the same patterns that you may find in Norwegian or American Indian designs. The earth tone colors are natural and not shiny. They are perfect under most traditional suits whether solid or pinstriped. The color match is rather easy, just pick out one of the colors in the pattern that matches the primary color of the jacket. Ties can be subdued or if you are like me something more extravagant. White shirts or light pastels are perfect are the perfect underpinning.



Missoni takes the outfits further than I would go. If you follow the design to a T you will be Yankee Doodle Dandy, so I would avoid the belts, purple or red shirts and the Bordeaux colored suits. A couple of pairs of dark grey, dark blue and a lighter beige slacks will go a long way. This is the concept of dress for success. We often say do not judge a book by its cover but we all know a well dressed individual gets more attention even on casual work days.


Guys, remember some basic rules if you are fighting or have lost the battle of the bulge. They are soft fitting darker colors, no strained buttons, and do not let the results of your battle cover the belt buckle.

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Friday, September 15, 2006

Turtleneck - Forget the Dickey

Thank God its Fashion! Still on men’s fashion for one final appointment for Italian men’s fashion Fall/Winter 2006-2007. Often overlooked but extremely important is the shirt. While the traditional good quality cotton with stiff collars and cufflinks are the base, this year’s addition is the turtleneck. Fashion often picks up themes again and again over the years. In the late 60s and early 70s, turtlenecks were the fad. From Starsky and Hutch to Miami Vice the turtleneck was there. As a young pup, about 8 years old, I remember having several turtlenecks and even more dickeys. I am not sure whether my mother thought they looked good or whether it was a substitute for the wool scarf. Either way I had a dickey in every color and for every occasion. Please do not be like my mother, buy the whole shirt!


The designers have brought back the turtleneck for the Fall/Winter 2006/2007. The clean and tight fit of the turtleneck creates a perfect base for the layered, heavy look of this year’s creations. Primarily solid darker colors the turtleneck creates a backdrop for the patterns and textures presented. Enrico Coveri uses the turtleneck as a base for his more casual styles combining both leather jackets and cashmere cardigans.

Valentino sees the turtleneck as a standalone. He presents a clean and natural look without a lot of clutter. Needless to say the knits are luxurious. They are soft as velvet and flow like silk. The collar has just enough elastic to keep it in place without the impression of being slowly strangled to death.

Versace seems to use the turtleneck to give a clean and solid base, usually placed strategically underneath and open jacket or overcoat. Perhaps the thought is that the turtleneck completes the outfit. I also noticed that while the Valentino fit loosely, evidencing the fabric, the Versace turtleneck tightly hugged the body.

Whether the turtleneck be an accessory or a base element, one thing is for sure, the turtleneck is back and here to stay for the next few years. Extremely functional as part of an outfit or standalone with a pair of jeans it can be worn from the first cool weather well into the winter season when the temperatures drop. It is something worth looking into to complete your wardrobe. Remember dark colors and never a dickey.

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Wednesday, September 13, 2006

Italian Men’s Fashion Fall – Winter 2006 Overcoats

Foto di Luca LazzariItalian fashion, the first thing that comes to mind is, “Looks great, but I can’t spend the money.” Designers are cutting edge, buying everything with a label would be expensive and keeping up year after year would take several salaries. Fortunately purchasing the latest and greatest in Milan reduces somewhat the need to get the latest and greatest every year. The distribution of the new styles takes time. What is hot in Milan this year will be hot in the rest of Italy next year and will hit the rest of the world several years later. That new coat or sweater can be worn for several years, remain stylish and generally show that you care about how you look.

People buy clothes for different reasons. Some want to appeal to other people, some people choose clothes because of their job, some people choose clothes to express a concept such as, “look how fashionable I am,” some people buy whatever is on sale and some people choose their clothes to please themselves. I am part of the last group. Every year something new comes out and I may find only one thing, a shirt, a jacket, or perhaps one pair of shoes I like. I only buy what I like and what I could wear no matter what the current look is. Fortunately this year is right inline with my taste in clothes.

The overcoat is suffering from depression, feeling it is not understood. We walk out of the house, get into the car, arrive at our destination and immediately go into a heated building or establishment, often forgetting our poor overcoat in the closet. It is a shame that this piece of apparel is ignored. The overcoat completes an outfit. I am somewhat curious to see how little importance is placed on winter wear. We go to the gym, pump weights, run countless miles, spin on the cycles for hours on end yet we throw on some old ski jacket over our suits and ties, making us look like the Michelin man.

The 2006 Fall Winter collection of men’s overcoats is a marvelous opportunity to complete the business or formal wardrobe. The lines are clean and long. The textures are soft and the colors neutral. A good design will take 20 pounds off the man who has had the easy life for a few too many years. In many instances the overcoat is the first impression of who you are. Whether entering a business meeting or a bar, the first 30 seconds are with the overcoat. No overcoat on a cold day and you are shivering and shaking; wear a casual coat and you look like some hillbilly come to the city for the first time.

Foto di Luca LazzariWhile all of the designers are tending toward neat lines, double breasted or formal buttons, and uniform-like rigidity, they all vary in colors, fabrics and the finishing touches. Versace shows a v-neck lapel, perfect with a tie or turtleneck, and the austere double-breasted button down with a belt. While the light colored version is not appropriate for my age the dark forest green and midnight blue help me hide those extra 20 pounds giving a clean and professional look.

Foto di Luca LazzariValentino also uses the mid-calf length and v-neck lapel but plays more on the texture of the fabrics. The diagonal weave of cotton and wool reflects light differently creating the illusion of movement. The fabrics react differently to natural and artificial light. The same coat will appear to be something completely different if worn for both day and evening occasions. Sleek and elongating with the double-breasted buttoning this is the perfect compliment for any coat and tie engagement.

Foto di Luca LazzariRoberto Cavalli, another young designer, presented an interesting piece. I wish I had the gumption to try dressing this bright orange coat. My inner soul is telling me to buy this one but my conscious has pulled out all of the stop signs. Several years ago I bought a Trussardi cotton knit shirt of the same color and wore it often both with and without a coat. It still is hanging in my closet and may get out and about again this fall. For all those with the courage and flamboyancy to wear this, my hat is off to you. Please send me a picture.

Foto di Luca LazzariArmani is Armani. His designs are the usual traditional and classy. He has the ability to make the youngster seem a man and to make a man seem a youngster. The clean lines, natural colors and mid-calf length will compliment just about anyone. I get something of an old west feeling with these coats and perhaps some mystery. I don’t know, maybe, underneath the flowing white double-breasted coat hangs a sawed off shotgun or silver pistol. Add the thin, soft leather gloves and the image is complete. Maybe I will get this one for the next turn around job I take.

Foto di Luca LazzariFinally, Trussardi has an interesting overcoat. I could not tell from far away if it was leather or cloth. The look was definitely leather, but the way the coat moved made me think it was a heavy cloth. I was truly surprised when I actually tried on this coat. I like the belt tie-up. It is somewhat shorter than the Armani and Versace and could easily transform from a semi-formal to casual style simply by buttoning or just tying off the belt.

There are many great options out there. The overcoat completes any wardrobe. A good quality coat can be enjoyed for many years and will keep you from seeming like you’re the poor kid on the block.

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Sunday, September 10, 2006

Men’s Fashion Fall/Winter 2006-2007 Sweaters

Foto di Luca LazzariThe temperatures have begun to moderate here in Milan. The daytime highs are registering between 75-78 degrees while the evening and night drops quickly into the high 50s. The first sweaters and fall jackets are appearing at dinner and evening activities. The 2006 fall fashion has something for everyone. The designers have created fantastic combinations that are equally smart on the 20 something young stud all the way to the early baby boomer. Extremely clean lines with natural colors and textures to add complexity and balance.

Each designer has put together something just a bit different but for the first time in many years they have one underlying theme, “A man represented as a man!” No sensitivity or exploration of the feminine side is the theme of the fall 2006 menswear. Even the double lapelled fur overcoats bring back memories of the Marlborough Man riding his steed into the mountains covered with snow.

Foto di Luca LazzariThe layered look has many advantages it gives substance to an underweight man and forgives the guy with a few extra pounds. Pullovers take the place of or diminish the need for a nice shirt, something not to be ignored with a cardigan.

Alessandro dell’Acqua, relatively new to the high fashion scene, brings a young and vibrant vision of beauty and class. The fabrics are clean and light following the body’s contours with a bit of abandon, for the traditional, usually associated with the more established designers. The fabrics are tight knit and the lines are very clean. They could easily be an integral part of a company or military uniform. Mix and match with both solids and tweeds, the simplicity of the designs adapt to just about any look.

Foto di Luca LazzariDonatella Versace celebrates the blues, no not jazz, instead the color. Deep, rich tones, heavy large knits, are the basis of her pullover. Others have called it the city biker look. I see more rebellion in this part of the fall line-up. Perhaps she is testing the waters or just wanted to find freedom in this design. Either way Versace Pullovers are the perfect piece for the US Baby Boomer. The look can easily change from "I am conforming" to "I don’t give a damn" by changing the jacket from a nice mellow tweed to anything with leather, obviously black with a few steel latches and it says, “Come get on the hog baby, I want to ride!”

Foto di Luca LazzariFerre’ presents the most traditional items of the group. The clean lines and neutral colors accentuate the personal style of the elegant man. A sweater for every occasion from the V-neck pullover to the heavy cardigan with leather or fur lapels Ferre’ exudes traditional and classy. Easily adaptable for the elegant evening with a smoking jacket to an afternoon getaway in jeans, when wearing Ferre’ everything just works out right. Perfect for the 30 and up crowd who does not need the clothes to express character or personality. When combined with a soft, dark leather pair of gloves an air of mystery can engulf the right man. I guess you were able to ascertain I will be wearing Ferre’ this year!

Foto di Luca LazzariFinally we have Missoni. Missoni presents a Cardigan and Pullover combination. The pair is available both with matching patterns and the complimentary solid and design. Missoni’s creations are perfect for the semi-casual or casual events. Whether it be a Friday at the office or a weekend trip these sweaters combine to cover most occasions. The colors and patterns are interesting. They remind me of the North European traditional style or the indigenous Canadian Indians. The textures appear to be raw, almost burlap but to the touch they are soft and pliable.

I am impressed with this year’s addition of the sweater. I have always kept it in my wardrobe both for business and pleasure. The sweater gives a cleaner look than just an open jacket, keeps the tie from flopping around and the shirt neat and clean. The layered component gives extra protection when moving from inside to outside temperatures and when combined with a wool or silk scarf can be used well into December. I would stay away from some of the more flamboyant patterns. A quality sweater can be used for many years and in different occasions.

For today it is late. Tomorrow is the beginning of harvest in some of the Valcaleppio vineyards. Lascivious Bacchus here I come!

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