Fantini Club - SPA and vacation destination on the Adriatic Riviera

Italy is working hard to become the prime tourist destination for the entire world. The Adriatic Coast (on the east side of the peninsula) is the primary destination for Italians. Families come to this region when children are small. Teenagers continue to come for the nightclubs. When these teenagers get married and have small kids they come back again. The area of the Adriatic coast from Venice to Pescara has remained on the forefront of destinations for Italian families because they are always innovating and creating new attractions to bring back generation after generation of Italian families. The most recent tendency is the theme beach.

Italian beaches are divided into concessions and each owner of the concession can do just about anything he wants with his portion of the beach. Fantini Club, in Cervia outside of Ravenna, has created a 24 hour multi attraction resort. The only thing they do not offer is lodging even though they can hook you up with a local hotel. Fantini Club has become one of the hot spots on the northern Adriatic coast. It is most well known for its outdoor SPA with massages performed by tanned, healthy looking, physical therapists. I think of this as an opportunity to melt from sun up to sun down. You will melt into the bed with a quick massage after breakfast, followed melting under the afternoon sun and finally melting into barstool, martini in hand.

Fantini Club has a full service restaurant and a self-service cafeteria. Tables are setup end to end like a local trattoria making for a great opportunity to get to know the other guests. The food is relatively good and extremely fresh. Fish is the strong point and local wines are available at a reasonable price.

Fantini Club also offers various water activities. Local instructors teach the adventurous windsurfing, scuba diving and small boat sailing. The club also has services for smaller children so parents can take off and do more adult things. Some of those adult things may include water massage, being pack in hot sand or spending a while on a salt bed. You can even check out my blog with the local WIFI access and a fresh fruit cocktail.

For those fitness minded Fantini Club has a gym with personal trainers. They do Yoga, Pilates and full cardio workout machines. If this still has not convinced you that this is a complete vacation spot, Club Fantini organizes fashion shows and various other activities. Finally as the sun goes down the entire beach becomes a low key nightclub, sometimes with live music or Italian DJs.

Fantini Club
Lungomare G. Deledda 182
48015 Cervia (Ra) - Italy
Tel: (+39) 0544 72236

Tags: Italian Vacations Cervia Emilia Romagna Beaches Travel Italy Summer+Vacations

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Riccione Beach #137 Mojito – Sun by day, Party all night

The younger portion of my family is giving me a hard time because I wrote about the No Men Allowed beach #134 in Riccione and I have not written about anything for the young and restless. Riccione, as most of the Adriatic coast, lives off of tourism. The beach is divided into concessions. The owner takes care of the beach area, provides chairs, tables and umbrellas. In the economic battle for visitors the local entrepreneurs are doing some interesting things. Beach #137 has teamed up with a local nightclub and is offering 24 hour a day fun.

When the sun is out the traditional tanning beds and umbrellas are in full force but as soon as day turns to dusk the beach becomes one of the hottest nightspots in Riccione. Every week the theme is different and covers everything from free form fashion shows to comedians. The entertainment usually speaks Italian but the 18-30 year old visitors arrive from all over Europe. Obviously, as the name suggests, mixed drinks are available and the music is loud and pulsating.

I admit, this is not the place for me, but it may be the place for you, or perhaps your kids. Security is relatively good in these places as in most nightclubs and I would not worry about my kids being safe. It should be remembered that there is alcohol and, while I do not know this for sure, where there are teens and tweens there may be some type of prohibited substances available.

All in all it sounds like pretty clean fun with the younger crowd. If you want to get a better idea you can check out this you tube video.

Tags: Italian Vacations Riccione Emilia Romagna Adriatic Sea Italian Beaches Travel Italy

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Exclusive Beach in Riccione – No Men Allowed!

The Adriatic shores of Italy are the favorite destination of Italian family vacationers. The white sand beaches span the coast and the water remains waste deep for miles into the sea. The waters are warm from late May and riptides rarely occur. This makes the Adriatic the perfect beach destination for families with small children. Rimini, Riccione and Cattolica are some of the most famous. Millions of Italians hit the coast cities during the summer vacation period. The area has also developed their infrastructures for the under 30 crowd with discotheques, nightclubs and low cost dining. Apparently this summer paradise was missing something, a beach just for women.

Beach number 134 in Riccione, run by a female entrepreneur, is open only to women. She states that she is merely filling a need just as the all female hotel in Switzerland and the German bank that only opens accounts for women. The Italian bloggers are ablaze with commentary, most of it negative. The thought is that our culture is succumbing to the puritan influences and that before we know it women will be criticized if they dress too sexy. Some have even taken it to the extreme saying that this is the first step toward a 1950s attitude toward women.

I have no problem with this type of beach. If my daughters wanted to catch some rays on an exclusively feminine beach I would not immediately think they were lesbians. I could also see how this would be a great solution for those with jealous partners. The partner may be more content thinking that his wife, girlfriend or partner will not be parading around in a hot bikini in front of 1000s of men. It is not clear if male children, or any children for that matter, are allowed.

I can also see advantages for the shy girl not entirely comfortable with her looks preferring to visit this type of beach. Perhaps a couple of girlfriends traveling Italy not wanting to be bothered by overactive men would be attracted to this type of establishment. I do not see this as puritan, lesbian or any other thing. If that is how you are comfortable go for it.

I am not sure if it will survive or if the number of establishments will increase but for now it is an option. You can find more information about the exact location of this beach at your hotel in Riccione.

Tags: Italian Vacations Riccione Beaches Adriatic Sea Travel Italy

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Beach Fashion Summer 2006 – More is better

Time to get ready for the beach. Worried about those extra pounds?

This year’s tendency is for the fuller, rounder figure. Gone are the stick skinny bodylines. Bikinis have more cloth and appreciation for the curves is back.



Thank goodness, women can be women again. Bikinis also are following the trend, still with bright colors and interesting textures but black and white also have their place.




The one piece is also picking up share, they are not necessarily made with more cloth but they also have their place. These swimsuits are primarily found from the higher end designer but are getting more exposure.

One of my favorites is also making the beach scene this year, the pare’o or beach dress. The pare’o is a large rectangle usually made of light cotton or silk and can be wrapped to create numerous looks. A girl can throw this on and be ready for a night of dinner and dancing. I find the soft slinky textures extremely sexy and it reduces the down time of going back to the hotel to change.

Along with the bright colors and a few black or white schemes accessories are taking a 1950-1960s look. Large sunglasses and really wide brimmed hats are the fad. Finally, probably the most important accessory of all, the 45+ year old man is a necessity. On this one it may seem that I am attempting to increase my own addressable market but this is the way it is.
So prepare for you summer fun, bright colors, a silk pare’o, large dark sunglasses alla Sofia Loren, a white wide brimmed hat and of course a 45+ beaux to complete the look.

Tags: Beach Fashion Swimsuits Fashion Travel Italy

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Porto Ercole Tuscany – Part II Sailing

Continuation from Porto Ercole Tuscany

Mollusks in hand we turn the corner on pier 4. Rows of tall masts sway gently on either side of the walkway. The gentle cling-clang of the hitches and ropes sing like a music box and the masts are the dancers moving sinuously closer then backing away. I quicken my pace almost leaving Raffaella behind, there she is near the end of the pier, fabricated entirely from wood, hand-made, bi-mast forty-five foot boat.

I am no sailor, but I love to sail. The agency in Porto Ercole had found the perfect boat, complete with captain and crew. Fausto is already on board with 3 beautiful girls catching some sun on the foredeck. As we arrive at the plank, laid down from the rear of the boat, securely tied to the pier and with rope handles to facilitate boarding, Gianni greets us. Gianni, a man of the sea, loves his boat and shortly after our greeting was promenading us to the main cabin. It is immediately obvious that Gianni spent more time at sea than he did on land. A stout man, with large calloused hands, and a deep tan broken only by the wrinkles from a bit too much exposure to the hot sun over the water, Gianni speaks with a heavy Tuscan accent. His boat is his life, he speaks of it as if it were a child that had just won the Nobel prize.

Gianni’s pride is well merited, the floors are polished teak while the cabinets, trim and banisters are shellacked maple. Leather upholstered benches run the length of the cabin on one side and the other is a complete kitchen. Between the aft sitting deck and the lounge, a half wall that could be closed with sliding glass in case of inclement weather, divides the two areas. On the half wall a completely stocked bar with wine cooler.

At the end of the main cabin, a set of stairs that leads to the lower deck and the sleeping cabins. Each cabin is complete with its own bathroom and shower and a sign over the toilet, “if you have not eaten it, then it should not end up in here.” We set our things in the cabin at the far end of the corridor and move back to the main cabin. Lorenzo, our absent friend has arrived with his new beaux.

Several years ago Lorenzo had become one of the top hair stylists in Milan and between the fashion shows in Milan, Paris and New York was really stressed out. While in Torino Raffaella had stopped in at the Milan shop to have her hair done and after about a half hour could tell that he needed a break, so she invited him to join us. To our amazement he had accepted.

Raffaella rushes to put away the fish while I greet Lorenzo. Gianni is definitely uncomfortable with Lorenzo and quickly moves away with his crew to attend to launching our cruise. Fausto and his friends arrive in the cabin, some dressed some not so dressed, aroused by the commotion. I pop bottle of prosecco while the crew member dedicated to the main cabin produced several long stemmed flutes. All with a glass in hand, we salute our captain and his crew with a boisterous cheer as we lay off the dock lines and move slowly out of port.

Lorenzo’s cell phone rang at this point. Without looking, he pitches it overboard. A look of horror consumes his face as he races to the side rails to see if he could recover it. Fausto’s friends had already found the boat’s sound system and are playing a CD of a d’Alessio mix. Gianni gazes at us, every once in a while, from the wheel just to make sure that the boat would survive our visit, and quickly turns his attention back to the course. We are still under motor power but the motor’s hum is barely audible in the cabin.

We clear the promontorio of Monte Argentario, the wide sea opens before us, and Gianni cuts the engines. The boat settles its aft pitch flattening in the water. Gianni shouts a few commands that I do not understand and the “Waft” of the sails opening resounds in the air, catching the wind. The boat pitches about 9 degrees to one side and jolts forward. The sudden movement causes Lorenzo’s beaux to fall into Fausto's lap, and the girls clack with laughter. Lorenzo glances at his friend, I am sure I saw a bit of jealously in Lorenzo’s eyes as his beaux quickly apologizes and moves away.

Our destination is the Island of Giglio, just a couple hours away. We would set anchor offshore, make dinner, then head home. The others settled in smoking cigars and drinking prosecco on the aft deck. I moved toward the front of the cabin and sat with my back against the main mast. I was alone with my cigar, the wind in my face, and only the sound of the water breaking against the hull. I awoke to Raffaella stroking my hair. She hands me my cigar and informs me that we would arrive shortly at the Island of Giglio.

Gianni had tied the wheel and was drinking grappa with Fausto. The island is clearly visible. Several boats are on the horizon, as we point for the cliffs of Caletta. The Island of Giglio is a favorite destination for scuba diving because of the coral reefs and extensive marine life. We navigate well away from the diving boats and throw anchor just offshore.

The water is crystal clear, deep blues and green create a patchwork of colors. From the boat it appears that you could touch the bottom below. Schools of fish parade around as if it were Carnival. Flashes of bright colors reflect the sun’s rays from under the surface as the fish swarm. Gianni and the crew fold the sales and begin preparing the cabin for dinner. Lorenzo dives into the clear water. Before too long our entire party is splashing, diving, enjoying this private location.

The sun is setting, it is time to begin preparing dinner. A quick shower to rinse the saltwater and off to the kitchen. Raffaella and Fausto are cleaning the fish while Lorenzo entertains the group with stories about this or that model and their eccentric behavior and most interesting to all their dirty little secrets regarding their perceived defects.

Fausto is in charge of the kitchen. His great grandfather had started a restaurant in the late 1800s. As kids he and his siblings grew up in the business and still today run the family business although each brother has his own profession. Lorenzo complains, without the usual subtleties, that he is thirsty. I find a Falanghina, a white wine from Lazio. This will go marvelously well with the pasta. It has a good body that pairs well with fish while it is also very drinkable as an aperitivo.

Fausto begins the sauce. He pours the oil into a hot skillet with two cloves of whole garlic, and sautés for several minutes. The shellfish are added whole. It is important that the clams open under the heat to assure that they are edible. He separates the shrimp heads and places the tails into the oil. The heads are placed in cheesecloth and boiled for about 3 minutes in 2 cups of water.

Salt and pepper are added sparingly to the shellfish. Once the clams are all open, he turns down the heat and adds the shrimp stock to the oil and lets this simmer. Being good Italians, a pot of spaghetti is on the boil, another 11 minutes and we will be in paradise. Finally, just minutes before straining the pasta chopped parsley is added to the sauce that has now taken on a light orange color from the shrimp.

The captain and crew have prepared a large table on the aft deck and another smaller one in the kitchen. Lorenzo supervised the preparation of the plates and silverware, Fausto prepared the sauce, Raffaella served the plates and I drank some wine. The sun has set. Our conversation is bright and colorful, laughter fills the air as we enjoy the peace and beauty of the Island of Giglio and partake of the bounties of the sea, and drink this marvelous wine. Most of all our pleasure is in our friendships, new and existing, the exchange of ideas, the whit of experience and we share our appreciation of life. We still have several hours to return to port but our day is complete and our lives enriched.

Technorati Tags : Porto Ercole Vacation Sailing Isola del Giglio Tuscany Food and Wine Italy

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Porto Ercole Tuscany

The three castles of Porto Ercole, considered the greatest fortification of the 1500s Spanish empire and reproduced in 1555 in murals of the palaces of Florence, blend easily with the yachts and sailboats safely anchored in the port below. The massive walls jutting skyward blend easily with the residential homes and hotels that seem to hang precariously off the cliffs overlooking the bay.

We arrived yesterday for the long weekend. Our hotel is in front of the port that sits comfortably in a natural cove, protected from rough seas by the mountain, this is a favorite destination for the bigger private ships. The provincial road, the only way in and out of the city, runs the entire length of the coast insures a beautiful view of the sea from every location in the city. We awoke late this morning, about 9. The night before, we had shut off the air conditioning and opened the windows. The air was cool with a slight breeze and a hint of salt. The soothing sounds of the water and the pleasant temperature had lulled us into a prolonged sleep.

I woke a bit before Raffaella. I try to move away slowly to not wake her, she is so beautiful, stretched out holding my arm, her head peacefully lays next to me barely touching my shoulder. As I move, instinctively she holds on tighter. I roll to one side and hug her forcefully enough for her to feel it but not enough to wake her and slowly slide out of bed as she falls back into a deep sleep. Quietly, I move into the parlor and call for breakfast in the room.

A cool breeze enters the room from the window and my attention is drawn to the walls. When we first entered the hotel I felt comfortable in the room. Subconsciously I perceived the beautiful furniture, the ceiling to floor drapes, the artisan workmanship of the ceiling molding but I did not fully appreciate the beauty of this architectural masterpiece. The drapes a heavy cotton and silk weave. The background in soothing earth tones but highlighted with designs of bright reds, yellows and browns that made the images embroidered jump off of the cloth. The walls an antique rose, while the molding a dark mahogany. Without touching the wood, it was obvious that it was not a veneer. The images incredibly detailed by some artisan 500 years ago.

I laid my head back on the oversized chair, following the lines of the molding to an elaborate ceiling. My first impression was that the wood molding continued, instead it was plaster masterfully painted, with highlights and shadows. The image was so real I had to stand up to get a closer look. Spaced throughout the ceiling are individual murals telling of sea battles long past, scenes of festivities during the Spanish rule, and nude portraits of beautiful women who no longer walk among us. I was overtaken by anger, I felt so stupid, just a short time ago I was considering purchasing a house in Dallas for an inordinate amount of money where the molding did not even match correctly and if you brushed against the walls with a bit too much energy you would end up in the next room.

Fortunately, a knock at the door. Coffee, hot milk, briosche, fresh bread and fruit jam arrives on silver platters and a waiters cart. I sneak back into the bedroom, Raffaella is still sleeping peacefully. This time as I took her forehead she opens her eyes and hugs me, I wonder what that is all about… The perfume of espresso permeates the air. It seems such a simple thing but is absolutely marvelous. Espresso in the morning, is passion, it is intense, it is an explosion of flavor that startles the taste buds to attention.

As we talk, the church rings the noon bells. It seems as though we are in the church, each strike initiates with a distinct clash of metal on metal then the reverberation of the different bells takes on a different tone. The deep penetrating tones of the big bells flows from one strike to another while the smaller bells chime happily celebrating the noon break. The bells begin to slow, their song fainter and fainter until silence falls again. Several hours had passed since breakfast and we had not even begun to dress. The room was beautiful but we had not come for the hotel.

The fishermen were still unloading the boats with the day’s catch. Calamari, polipi, vongole, coda di rospo, and gamberi were neatly stored in individual containers lined up out side the boats. The fisherman was folding his nets and boisterously joked with his shipmates. It had been a good day and they had wares to show it. I took a pound of each for a total cost of about 10 Euro. We proceeded toward our destination along the pier. The wood pylons holding the planked walkway as thick as I am. Their surface ravaged by the saltwater with crevices that penetrated to the core of this aged wood, yet the walkway barely moved under the swells of the water.

Continua...

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Porto Santo Stefano Tuscany

A pathway of light shimmering into the sea as the sun settles behind the horizon. I kiss Raffaella on the neck. There is a hint of salt on her skin from the light inland breeze and she pulls me tighter as we walk along the rocks. She is at peace, the sound of the water, the spray pluming into the air as the waves crash on the rocks relaxes her. This is rather unusual but a spring storm has just passed through and the winds are changing. The battle of the scirocco, hot winds from the deserts of Africa, and the jet stream from northern Europe create significant turbulence in the normally calm waters of the Tiranean Sea.

The sun is hidden behind the horizon. The aura glows red and orange into the evening sky. We turn to return to our hotel as the last rays of light illuminate the castle walls on the hill behind us. A sight that could not be orchestrated, I imagine the enemy ships arriving at dusk to see this potent image of power highlighted from a horizon without a sun. I can feel a slight shiver run down Raffaella’s neck, it could be the light breeze is now cooler without the sun’s direct heat or did she have the same vision?

We walk along the break to the wharves where the fishermen are cleaning their boats. Their faces bronzed from the sun are intense on completing their tasks and going home for the day. Their catch is already in the local restaurants or transported to the markets in Rome.

The town center is bustling with movement. Most employees have completed their day and rush to the stores to purchase the fresh ingredients for tonight’s dinner. A couple strolls leisurely in the square, stopping at each storefront, chatting, and moving on. The stores seem to be a series of paintings, one after the other, well lit, each item placed strategically to catch the customers attention, a exposition of colors, shapes and lighting. Tomorrow they will all have changed and a new kaleidoscope of scenes will be presented.

Time for an “aperitivo”; we stop at a fairly large café and take a seat at a small table outside the shop. The awning reaches well out into the square and the white tablecloths lend an air of understated sophistication. A tall young man with a deep tan arrives dressed in black slacks, white shirt and cumber bun. He speaks with a pleasant Roman accent and tells us he lives in Rome but works here during summer. Although we read the menu’ attentively we already know our libation of choice. Prosecco and some savory pastries arrive in short order. Salted shortbread with a dollop of mascarpone and thinly sliced prosciutto rolled into a rose, puff pastry with salmon carpaccio, and oysters on the half shell, the hardest thing about before dinner drinks in a place like this is not eating so much that you no longer want dinner.

An hour slips by quickly as we look out onto the sea and talk about the day. The Romans are here in full force as they take a break from the chaos of the big city. We say goodbye to our new friend at the café and walk slowly to the restaurant, pausing here and there to admire the beautiful clothes in the shop windows. Marco, the restaurant, owner greets us at the door and shows us to our table on the patio with a beautiful view of the sea horizon. The lights of the cruise ship twinkle in the distance in various colors as they move into position to dock in the port of Civitavecchia.

“Well, Mr. Anderson, what shall I prepare for dinner?” Marco asked already knowing the answer.

Raffaella looked at him slyly and stated, “Marco, my glass is empty…”

Before she could finish her remark, a bottle of Prosecco popped and over her shoulder the sparkling sensation, bubbled in her glass.

“Mrs. Anderson, I would never leave you without a glass of wine.”

As I stared blankly at the menu I asked, “what’s good?”

In the tradition of a true restaurateur, Marco quickly explained the entire catch of the day. The Orata was fresh but he did not like the look of the eyes, the calamari were brought in this afternoon, they also had some eel but it would it take about 45 minutes and they had several coda di rospo so we could choose the one we wanted. He then suggested the zuppa di pesce con papardelle (fish soup with fresh egg pasta) to start and in the meantime he would bring out the fish for us to choose.

The wine was much easier. This is generally Raffaella’s job. Greco di Tufo was the choice, relatively inexpensive yet with a good body for a white wine. It would go well with both the zuppa and the coda di rospo. The zuppa had a delicate flavor with a slight hint of pepper. Vongole, polipi, gamberi and large chunks of a variety of the day’s catch abounded. Crostini with olive oil and salt were readily available to mop up the residuals. The coda di rospo pan seared with butter and lemon. Simplicity in preparation is the best method when the fish is fresh.

Well, we ate, we drank, we talked and the hours passed. The evening air cooled a bit more so we decided not to partake in the usually marvelous deserts instead a quick walk back to the hotel for a couple of espresso. The day had been full, yet it was relaxing and we were content. I opened the room’s French doors on the balcony to smell the sea breeze. A full moon was rising. It seemed to fill the skyline and again, a pathway of light reflected over the now smooth water. Armed with light sweaters we sat on the balcony, absorbing the environment, the sea, the tranquility. It is a tough life, but someone must do it.

Technorati Tags: Monte Argentario Porto Santo Stefano Vacation Tuscany Food and Wine Italy

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Argentario Tuscany – Destination VIP

The first formal written records, containing the promontory Monte Argentario, date back to 24 AD. This hill, about 654 meters above sea level at the highest point, was an island. Over the years two rivers deposited silt into the ocean behind the island and built up to create two connecting causeways between the mainland and the island. This is not what makes Monte Argentario so special. Located just north of Civitavecchia, the primary port of Rome, the forces that controlled this island also controlled the sea lanes of Rome.

Antique as it is Monte Argentario has been conquered as many times as Italy has had kings (I could list them here but in the interest of space let us simply say “numerous”). The promontory received its current name when the Republic of Rome gave it to the “Argentarii”, money lender for our Italian impaired friends, Enobarbi Domizi as repayment for loans during the II Guerra Punica. Domizi made this his home and named the promontory “Monte Argentario” or the hill of the money lenders.

The promontory then passed to Carlo Magno, Leone III, Aldobrandeschi, Orsini di Sovana, the king of Naples, the king of Spain, Napoleon to finally rest with the Grand Duke of Toscana. Several other fortifications were built in the surrounding areas, Porto Santo Stefano and Porto Ercole. West and South West of Florence the Argentario district spans from Grosseto south to Civitavecchia (just north of Rome).

Today these locations have progressed from defending the sea lanes to becoming the most desired vacation spots for “Roma Bene”. Movie stars, politicians, business leaders and yes the normal working guy. The variety of selection of food and lodging is a vast as the client base and beginning in the first days of spring these areas swell to several hundred thousand people. Many have their second home but the choice of hotels is very good. The influx of weekenders also drives a thriving restaurant business and shopping that parallels Rome itself.

I just happen to be in Santo Stefano at this time but I will tell you about that later on this week.

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Monte Argentario Roma Bene Vacation Tuscany Food and Wine Italy

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Il Gargano – San Giovanni Rotondo – Monte San Angelo

I am not the type of person to go on religious pilgrimages so why am I talking about 2 strictly religious destinations. At the beginning of the networking and Internet expansion I was asked to design a secure network to connect 7 of the long term care institutes of the Padre Pio foundation. These are located in San Giovanni Rotondo. I was amazed to see the number of people that arrived every day in this little town. These people were not your typical vacationers. Most had little money and had spent most of their funds just getting there.

This is a religious pilgrimage for excellence. San Michele, the archangel Michael, is the patron saint of Foggia and many of his miracles are attributed to the cavern of San Michele in Sant Angelo on the Gargano. A sanctuary rises above the cavern where it is said that the image of the saint is burned into the walls of rock. The medieval town of Monte S. Angelo has retained its original look and feel. Divided in zones slightly larger than courtyards you find small shops and restaurants around every corner.

The town is located above the cliffs overlooking the coastline and the panoramic view of the beaches can be seen from most parts of the town. This is an interesting place to take a daytrip.

Further into the Gargano is San Giovanni Rotondo. Millions of pilgrims arrive every year to visit the sanctuary of Padre Pio. It is highly unlikely that you will be able to park in the town unless you are checking into one of the healthcare facilities. Busses will bring you to primary plaza from which you have a marvelous panoramic view of the Gargano. A large Avenue leads right up to the Sanctuary and along the way you can find all sorts of religious paraphernalia. Most of the hotels are family operated and they can direct you to find just about anything you might need or desire regarding Padre Pio. Remember visitors do not come to these areas for the food or wine so you should not expect anything really special.

Tags: Gargano Padre Pio Monte San Michele Puglia Travel Italy

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Gargano - Baia delle Zagare

What a rush! Driving the winding roads around the Gargano in the dark of night. I have traveled this road so many times I can sense the next turn in the road before I get to it. How fast can I make it this time? I turned up the volume on my “Neri per Caso”, and push a little on my dark blue with black leather interior Lancia K. The 2.0 liter turbocharged engine let out that typical “WAMFUF” of the turbo kicking in. I was still in second gear and doing about 60 km/hour. As I navigate the curves this machine just sits to the inside and hugs the road. Oh, what a feeling.

Out of nowhere a horn. How can that be? No one is on the road, no lights, yet there it is again. Then I realize I can’t see anything. All is black. I am asleep at the wheel. I try to open my eyes but nothing. How can I stop the car. Surely I will end up in the ravine. The adrenalin rushes and I still cannot open my eyes. Again; this time much louder, that horn.

Slowly I open one eye, it is still dark in the room. It was just a dream. The horn is that terrible alarm clock. I really have to slow down. Those 1500 km days with 3 meetings don’t leave enough time for sleep.

As the second eye opens I hear the birds chirping at the dawn light peeping over the horizon creating a long trail across the sea. The sun breaks into view in the distance, seems like the sun is having as difficult time as I am getting up this morning. There is a slight dampness in the air as the sun begins to warm the surroundings and I can smell the coffee from the breakfast lounge.

I throw on jeans and a sweater, although it is July the nights and early morning can be quite chilly. “Girls, time to get up, let’s get breakfast.” After a few “oh, Daddy. I want to sleep,” and “just a few more minutes.” The girls are up, dressed and we are heading through the wooded compound to the breakfast area. Few guests are up at that hour but the breakfast hall is decked out with a buffet that runs the entire length of the hall. The tables are all set with white tablecloths and stainless steel utensils. Not made of tin that bends as soon as you pick them up, but nice heavy stainless steel.

I choose the table in the back and order 3 double espresso and a pitcher of hot frothing milk. The girls start out with freshly squeezed orange and grapefruit juice. I love breakfast and go for freshly baked bread with butter and jam and some Danish. The girls instead have cereal and fresh fruit Macedonia. After this I am ready to go back to bed but I promised the girls that I would spend the day with them so our first stop is the beach.


Baia delle Zagare has its own private beach at the foot of the cliffs where the compound is located. Right off the shore there are two “faraglioni”. These are pieces of the mountain that were separated from the main mass and over time the sea has eroded the sides and the base. They are impressive, shooting straight up out of the water about 100 feet. There are only two ways to get to this beach, one by elevator ride for about 5 floors, and the other by sea. The resort offers beach umbrellas and reclining chairs for about 10 $ a day. You can also just lay your towel down but if you plan to spend the day in the sun the umbrella is definitely worth the money.

A couple of hours on the beach its back to the room for a shower and off to the resort’s restaurant for lunch. Be prepared this is Puglia, so lunch is a serious affair. Do not be thinking a quick sandwich, unless that is what you really want. We take a table close to the window. The restaurant looks out over sea and by lunch the sun is high in the sky and does not shine directly through the windows. You can have a full, several course meal or just a first or second plate but in any case you come away from the table well satisfied. Remember the local wines are relatively good but usually have a more fruity flavor and a higher alcohol content so go slow; they can sneak up on you. Fish is the primary staple for most of the dishes and since it is fresh there is no reason to order anything else. Now you should know I am very difficult on fish. Either it is really fresh (still moving when it gets to the kitchen) or I just can’t eat it. At Baia delle Zagare I would do about 2 weeks of fish.

After lunch I take the girls to the Tremiti for an afternoon. You can catch the boat directly at the private beach or make arrangements for a taxi motorboat. This is an experience in its own right and I will not write about it today.

After an afternoon of the Tremiti and all of the grotte (sea caverns) underneath the Gargano we return to the resort. Ah shucks, its almost time to eat again… I guess you can tell I really like good food. We get cleaned up and dressed. Remember this is Italy, casual should look good. Although the staff understands that not everyone understands proper dress and that when people are on vacation they like to shed the rigors of social acceptance it is appropriate to dress properly for dinner. This does not necessarily mean coat and tie but it does mean a dress shirt and slacks perhaps with a sweater or light evening jacket.

Do not think anyone will turn you away if you dress in cut-offs and a Tshirt but our objective here is to vacation like an Italian and not immediately stand out as the American tourist. Respect for the local customs will usually result in a better table, better service and a more reasonable price.

Dinner is a marvelous experience. About 8:00 pm is right for me and the family. Again the table close to the window is a must. By now the sun is setting and the light trail over the water extends in the opposite direction from the morning toward the horizon. Service is excellent. Most of the staff has been sourced from the tourism trade school and the chefs are top grade. The food is good balance between fresh pasta and light fish. Deserts, as just about everywhere in this region, are flavorful, not to sweet, and the presentation is colorful and imaginative.

The day is not over. Baia delle Zagare is a family resort. They hire in entertainers and there are nightly skits, presentations, and shows. The kids can go alone, as the staff are very attentive, or the entire family can participate. The fun is family oriented and you can laugh your insides out until about 11:00. By that time just about everyone is ready for bed.

To sum up: This is a family vacation. You do not need to leave the resort to have a marvelous time. There is not much around if you are looking for night life but the entertainment style is much like that of a cruise ship. This is the place to go to experience a family vacation, with excellent service, entertainment and to eat like a king.

Tags: Gargano Baia delle Zagare Foggia Puglia Travel Italy

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Pizzomunno - Mancore

This area is considered by many to be the most suggestive of Italian landscapes. I found this area while traveling with one of my business partners, Antonio Mattei, nephew of the great businessman, politician, and ex-president of the national oil and gas company, Enrico Mattei. Antonio was great in his own right and was the most influential individual in my career development. He taught me the “rules” of Italian business including one of the most important concepts of any successful venture, “Perception is Reality, the Truth is only the Truth”. During one of our trips from Senigallia to Foggia he took the scenic route, about 5 hours longer than by traveling the expressway. As we arrived in Vieste he told me the story of Mancore.

Enrico Mattei was returning by helicopter to Senigallia from the port of Manfredonia where ENI had a large storage and chemical production plant. As they came around the promontory of the Gargano, breathless, he placed his hand on his heart and stated that this was the most beautiful place he had ever seen. This area became know as “Mancore”, local dialect for “hand on your heart”.

In the 50s and 60s there was a strong communist movement in Italy. Enrico Mattei was very communist. Companies would provide vacation structures for the employees at significantly reduced cost. Eni built a company-owned vacation colony on the spot he found so beautiful. Today most of these structures have been sold and the area has one of the most luxurious hotels I have ever stayed at. This is not because of the physical environment. In fact the hotel is contemporary, the suites are extremely comfortable, but it is hard to outdo the ambiance created in a renovated 15th century palace (but that is another topic).

The primary hotel at Pizzomunno is top in luxury for its service. The food is great is every sense. Primarily fish however, wild game, hunted by the locals, is available in season and cooked in the according to the traditional Umbrian recipes. I strongly agree with this position. Any recipe perfected over the last 500 years probably does not need to be made contemporary. If you are big into the new tastes of international food attempting to match new Chinese and new Italian into a single plate then, this is not the place to be.

The chefs, who have the advantage of great talent from one of the top cooking trade schools in the country, adhere to the highest standards of traditional cuisine. The waiters can tell you about how a dish is made, why it is made that way, when is the best time of year to order it, and which wine, of the extremely well furnished cellars, should be consumed with each part of the meal.

Just a note on wine, this is Italy; some of the finest wines in the world are produced here. Most producers still use the traditional methods of preparing the wine: natural yeast, very little or no micro-filtration, no pasteurization, no additives, just good grapes and thousands of years of practice. All this to say please, do not order a French, German or Californian wine. Food and wine are a delicate mix. Usually a local wine will be the best with local recipes.

Pizzomunno is located at the base of the cliffs of Vieste. The fine white sand extends right up the cliffs. From the hotel built on the beach you can walk the steps up to Vieste or take the very tight roads. Generally, the roads have a brick retaining wall on one side and buildings on the other. The streets continuously turn back on themselves as they wind up the cliff so do not attempt to drive this as you will surely leave a side of your car on one of the walls. As the road comes to turn back on itself you will find little nooks. At one time these were defensive positions, today they are a great place to stop and enjoy the view.

There are many small cities to visit, shop if you want, or just to wander. Stop in the churches, eat at just about any local taverna, take a motorboat trip to see the “grotte” and the “faraglioni”, that is big lighthouses, formed out of pieces of the Gargano that did not quite make it to the mainland and the sea has eroded over time. You will come away after three or four days with a different aspect on life.

Tags: Pizzomunno Food and Wine Italian Vacations Puglia Travel Italy

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Il Gargano - Puglia

The Gargano is a grey granite mountain sticking out like a knuckle on the southeastern coast of Italy on the northern border of Puglia. It is located on directly on the coast between the major cities of Pescara and Foggia. The promontory is about 3,500 feet high with cliffs dropping directly into the water and is 65 km long and 40 km wide. In 1991 this area was declared a national park and covers 250 square km, half of which forest, and 2,000 species of vegetation.

The locals indicate that at one time the Gargano was actually connected to Tunis and as the continental plates shifted, broke off a piece that became an island, that eventually ended up attached to Italy. The eastern coast toll road runs on the western side of the mountain so to get their you either get off in Pescara and follow the coast to the northern side or go south to Foggia and follow the coast up through Manfredonia for the southern side. The roads are typical mountain roads with beautiful views, winding around the side of the mountain. They also drop straight down into deep gullies or directly into the sea so take this road VERY slowly, no more than 40km an hour.

The Gargano has four primary locations that I love to visit. On the northern side, Vieste, on the promontory Baia delle Zagare, and San Giovanni Rotondo toward the peak, and the Tremiti, small islands that stand like lighthouses just off the shore. This does not mean that there are not other fantastic places to visit, just that these are the places I would usually go to on vacation.

Actually the Gargano is very well known because of Padre Pio, sanctified in 1999, and the hospitals and hospices that carry his name. Every year millions of pilgrims make the trip to San Giovanni Rotondo.

The food is great. Most everything has something to do with fish and the local pasta is orecchiette, little ears, and most families and many restaurants still make them by hand. A typical dinner in this area means several hours and if you happen at lunch on Sunday you can find yourself still at the table when dinner starts being served. Fried in a light batter or breadcrumbs is primarily the way most food will be prepared. So go slow, take your time and enjoy the numerous varieties of fresh vegetables as antipasti, a small plate of the local pasta with fresh tomatoes slightly heated with small pieces of smoked pancietta, followed by some savory fish caught that morning, and before coffee some smoked scamorza cheese. By the way, in Puglia, coffee is sweetened when prepared and it is very sweet. If you can still remain upright after this smorgasbord, the deserts are incredible, their presentation immediately let’s you know this is not something you want to miss.

Local wines are very fruity and usually have a higher grade of alcohol. This is due to the extreme summer heat that drives up the sugar content in the grapes. Be careful, you can easily go overboard on the wine while eating dinner. I usually like to have a glass of mineral water to sip on every once in a while.

Tags: Gargano Puglia Travel Italy

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Amalfi Coast

When most Americans think of Italy they think of the Tuscany region, Rome, Florence, Venice and the Lake Como area.

Wines from Tuscany, known as the super Tuscanies, are the most prevalent in US wine cellars. Well known foods such as Eggplant Parmesian, Lasagna made with Ricotta cheese, and fried calamari from southern Italy.

These areas are beautiful, and their food and wine is marvelous, but are only a small portion of the fantastic scenery and variety of food and wine that Italy offers. In Europe, Italy is known as the “garden of Eden”. It is a peninsula with 3 mountain ranges (one of them the Alps on the northern border with Switzerland) about 1,000 miles of fantastic beaches where you can wade out about 1/2 mile and still only be waste deep and another 600 miles of breathtaking shoreline where the mountains drop almost straight down into the Mediterranean Sea.

Italians will usually take two major vacations during the year. The first to the sea in the summer and a winter week sometime between Christmas and Carnivale. Since the summer vacation period is during the month of August as the companies close for about 3 weeks, you want to avoid Italy during that period. So the most important rule is to avoid vacationing in Italy during the month of August. Prices will be higher and you may or may not be able to find accommodations.

In September northern Italy cools off very quickly and business heats up. Milan is the financial center and hosts numerous trade shows between September and November. Some of these shows are BIT - tourism, SMAU - Technology, and many fashion shows. Hotels are hard to find and very expensive. Often it will be necessary to stay in Bergamo or Brescia, 40-60 miles from Milan, to find a suitable hotel.

My favorite spots during the month of September are Sardegna, the Costa Amalfitana, or Sicily. These spots see a tremendous drop in the number of tourists yet the temperatures remain in the 80's. The sea is still warm from the summer and most of the lodging establishments are still open. The Costa Amalfitana is made up of several small towns.

They are: Almalfi, Atrani, Cetara, Conca dei Marini, Furore, Maiori, Minori, Positano, Praiano, Ravello, Scala, Tramonti, Vietri sul mare.

My idea of a vacation is to eat and drink well, catch some sun, sleep, and chat with people so my favorite itinerary would be to stay at a hotel in Praiano (very close to Positano). There is a family owned place right on the main road called "Re Tritone". In September the staff is reduced and usually the owner will serve you and actually have time to chat if that is what you desire. The food is really good, most made in house including some really fantastic deserts.

Once or twice we would have dinner in Positano right down on the shore. Just about any place will provide a "zuppa di pesce", “spaghetti alle vongole”, or just about any type of fish you desire. The hotel is built into the side of the cliff so the lobby is actually above the rooms that extend 5 floors below. You are about 100 feet about sea level and when you look down there is nothing between you and the water, no slopes, nothing. I would always ask for a corner room with the "francesina" bed. These rooms have a small balcony and you can sun bathe on your balcony.

Sometimes, when I would really need a rest, I would not leave the hotel for the entire 5 days. Breakfast on the balcony with fresh orange juice and sweet breads, lunch and dinner with the owner, napping again on the balcony in the afternoon and primarily just doing as little as possible. However if you want to get out and about I would always ask for the hotel to arrange for a car and local driver. I would tell him more or less what I wanted to do and then let him do the rest.

Tags: Amalfi Campania Hotels Travel Italy

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