Monday, January 29, 2007

Italian Women’s High Fashion Spring-Summer 2007 - Giorgio Armani Prive’

Armani does it again. I am always impressed with the capability to design truly beautiful and unique clothes that can easily be adapted to everyday wear. Giorgio Armani’s Prive’ Spring-Summer 2007 line is innovative, classical, provocative, yet graceful. While a few outfits are formal only, Armani’s Prive’ collection will be found in the offices of Milan starting in the early spring. In traditional Armani, jackets are draped and crossed. The fabrics, adorned with pearls embedded in the silk and lace, create unique patterns and textures. Slacks are skintight. As with Valentino, shoulder pads are part of the mix.


Embroidered fabrics are also an important part of the line as are the foulard and turbans. The press release indicates the company’s intention to emulate the traditional oriental designs. I get more of a 1930s feel. The dominant color is a grey, from charcoal to silver, as if he were trying to create a contrast between the 30s exuberance and the neutral colors worn by the upper class ladies of the day. The base metal colors insinuate elegance. When they are combined with the flowing and gay 30s designs and the fabrics are luxurious silks and opulent laces, the resulting outfit creates emotion and interest through subliminal contrast. The fabrics flow over a woman’s body, elongating the lines, revealing the feminine curves while covering with the puritan colors.



The most versatile designs are the wraps. Traditional Armani these are open cloth skirts the close in the front with an overlay. While elegant the skirt can be matched with an existing silk blouse to accommodate most situations. The pearl adorned top steps things up a notch.


The skintight sleek pants underneath another outfit is also quite versatile. The pants give an air of playful youth. I would think they are also quite comfortable allowing movement without having to worry about showing off too much.




These are my favorites. While I think these are appropriate for both work and more formal occasions these may be a bit much in some office environments. The designs are elegant and the fabrics have luxurious designs and textures. I think any woman wearing these will feel like a million bucks.


These designs will be harder to work into an everyday routine but they are fabulous. I would lose the large trailing veil. These are soft and voluptuous, very feminine and a bit snooty but with these outfits one can afford to be a bit snooty.


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Tuesday, December 26, 2006

Moda Ermanno Scervino – Women’s Fashion Winter 2007

Fashion always comes from the streets. Some designers have an uncanny ability to identify or even influence tendencies. Others are able to bring new sparkle to very traditional and classic styles. The Florentine stylist, Ermanno Scervino, is a designer that has street credibility. He appeared on the scene in 1997. Since then he has been dressing the streets of Italy. His ability to interpret tendencies is shown by his revenue growth. While still small in terms of the overall Italian Fashion market, in 2004 he more than doubled sales from 17 million Euros to 35 million in 2004. Since that time has be growing sales in double digits and if my experience is an example this year will be another year of record growth.

Raffaella and I were walking through a local department store here in Dallas and I noticed a couple. They seemed familiar yet just a bit out of place among the crowds. The clothes she was wearing were really cool; they just seemed to frame her perfectly. As we came closer we heard them speaking Italian. Yes, we were brash and stopped them right in the middle of the corridor. It turns out they are from Sicily and were visiting friends here in Dallas for a wedding. The clothes could have been Texan, suede and soft, brushed leather in natural tones, calf-high boots with tassels, soft, form fitting jeans with just a hint of the washed denim, as if she had had them for a lifetime.

As we chatted and organized getting together while they were here, I asked about her clothes. I know it is not appropriate but the curiosity was too great. I could not identify the designer. I even thought they might have purchased the clothes here in Dallas from some upcoming designer with a European flair.


The first part of the line uses soft fabrics and suede. It could be seen as a 1600s hunting or outdoor sport with a contemporary touch. The designs accentuate the female figure, accentuating the curves with heavier clothes or overlays in the top and bottom of the hourglass while maintaining the beelike waste. The footwear is an important part of this look. Mostly boots are used but heels are also applicable for the outfit without the jacket. I found the thigh high boots really interesting with the kneecap cover.








The next area I see would have been considered travel clothes in the 40s and 50s. Comfortable and clean lines with natural darker colors and heavier fabrics are the basic characteristics. In today’s world they would be appropriate in most office situations and excellent for weekend outings or vacations.











Finally the more formal wear, whether is be the knee or full length outfit, are soft and flowing with silks and chiffon. I find them just formal enough for most occasions but casual enough to be worn on just about any evening occasion and in some work environments.


Thinking about the entire line adjectives like free spirit, active lifestyle, and youthful, come to mind. Ermanno Scervino seems to understand the vibe that is on the street. I did notice that his designs were more prevalent in the central and southern cities and less in Milan. This could have something to do with the more casual lifestyle.

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Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Valentino Alta Moda – Women’s Fashion Fall/Winter 06-07 High Fashion

There is always a bit of a conflict, show the Pret a Porter line or the High Fashion designs. This becomes even more difficult when the subject is one of the greatest of Italian Fashion. Valentino’s designs this year of both lines are unique and timeless. It would be a shame not to present one or the other. Valentino’s High Fashion line is inspired by epic Russian Folklore costumes. Adding a bit of a contemporary flair and the Valentino touch and these outfits become a perfect addition to any wardrobe. It may be that the fashion conscious will be able to identify this year’s designs in the coming years but that is not a reason to take a close look at the line.

Valentino toned down the Marie Antoinette influenced Russian Czar period design, eliminating the ruffles and puffs, changing the basic fabrics to Satin, Silk, and Lace. Valentino created a line that can be worn by the 20 something grad at her first job to the forty plus top manager who has arrived and knows it. These outfits are aggressive yet feminine and all are discretely provocative. I imagine the Black Widow, Mata Hari, and Jacqueline Onassis wearing these outfits. They are sexy while maintaining the appropriate décor of formal occasions.

Each line has something for everyone. Most do not consider High Fashion for the work environment but this is the rule in Italy. It depends on the type of company but generally if you work for a well-established company then you can and sometimes should wear High Fashion. The rule is clean lines and not outlandish, inside these rules just about anything goes. The dresses I consider most appropriate for the workplace range from the black widow to work killer II.The more formal occasions such as business meetings, PR outings or cocktails after work are covered with the black line. The designs are still clean but flaring skirts may be a bit difficult sitting behind a desk. When the occasion is up on the feet these are perfect. Formal, business minded, clean lines yet just enough improvisation to say this is a special occasion.
Formal occasions such as a night at the opera or a wedding are amply covered by the white satin and lace and white velvet designs. If you are going to a wedding and want to make an impression that everyone will remember, even the bride for outdoing her outfit, then any of these will do. They are grace and style. Formal to the hilt.

Finally we have my favorites. These are the ones I would choose for Raffaella. I find them intriguing, full of grace, class and style. They are provocative. They say to me, “Come and fight for me! I am worth it.”

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Wednesday, April 26, 2006

Italy Fashion Summer 2006 – Return of the 50-60s

A growing trend from the street, the era “Pin-up”. A mix of the sensuality of the 50s and the non-conformist attitudes of the 60s, this summer, the Pin-up is the new trendy look. Scant flowing dresses, bows, laced fronts or backs, light cottons and silks, with bright colors and floral patterns are about to arrive. Easy to mix and match, less structured to make you feel not only free but feminine.



The bright colors balance with jeans and textures are soft. Miniskirts, maxi chiffon dresses, cotton and lace jackets held together with a single button, short shorts and knickers are all fair game (fortunately I have not seen any tie die, yet…). Cloth Bags, lots of Beads, large Belts and Boots, sometime cowboy, are the accessories that complete the look.



Headgear, or hats, can be 50 style floppy and large brimmed with colorful ribbons, flowers or simply a cotton or silk scarf tied tight around the head with a flowing trail. Platforms also seem to be in the works but I cannot stand them so I would suggest, as the temperature rises, spikes which are already considered the upcoming footwear for the next couple of years. I suspect that the sole only sandals will also be ok.

It may seem strange for a man to be writing about women’s fashion but I love women. I do not always appreciate the new styles that come and go but, when a fad accentuates a woman’s natural beauty I am all for it. This should be a fun season for apparel and it seems that anything along these lines will be appropriate as long as it borders on eclectic so use your fantasy and have a great time. We, men, will surely appreciate it.

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