Sunday, August 19, 2007

Valdostana Fondue – Fonduta Valdostana

This is a simple Fontina cheese sauce. Simple, that is, for those who know how to make it. The basic ingredients are Fontina, butter, egg yolks and milk. The trick is to change the viscosity from a stringy cheese into a smooth and velvety sauce. The origins of the Fontina Fondue are not clear. Some say that Cavour is the father and that Fontina Fondue is from the royal kitchens of Turin or Geneva. Others insist that its birthplace is the Canton Ticino in Switzerland.

The first historical reference is in 1854. Giovanni Vialardi included the Valdostan Fondue in his cookbook, “Trattato di Cucina”. Giovanni Vialardi was the royal chef to king Vittorio Emanuele II and Carlo Alberto. There is a reason why this sauce is an important part of high cuisine. It is considered an “appropriate death” for Truffles and Gnocchi, mainstays of the sophisticated palate.

The consistency and delicate flavors of the Fonduta Valdostana make most Piedmont wines, such as Barolo, Nebbiolo, Barbaresco and Barbera, the perfect accompaniment.

Ingredients for 4 people:

1 lbs (454 g) Fontina
¼ stick (30 g) Butter
4 Egg Yolks
3 cups of milk (actually the amount of milk required will change according to the pan you soak the cheese in. The exact amount is enough milk to completely cover the cheese cubes)
Fresh ground Pepper

Preparation:

Cut the Fontina into cubes. Place the Fontina in a bowl and cover with the milk. The cheese should be completely immersed in the milk. Cover the bowl with a towel and let the cheese-milk combination soak for 5 hours.

In a separate bowl beat the egg yolks. Cut the butter into slices.

Choose a heavy pot with a thick base. The pot should be large enough to hold the milk and cheese mix. Place the cheese-milk mixture in the pot and begin to heat over medium low heat. This is a slow cook do not be in a hurry.

Stir slowly with a whisk always in the same direction. Add the butter. Once the cheese has completely melted, add the egg yolks. Continue stirring until the Fonduta Valdostana becomes creamy. The cheese will first melt. It will then cling together in a mass and finally it will dissolve into the milk sauce. Do not stop stirring and do not be in a hurry.

Remove the Fonduta Valdostana from the cooking pot and pour the sauce into a heated terracotta serving dish.

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Wednesday, October 11, 2006

Gnocchi alla Bava – Gnocchi with oozing Fontina Cheese

It is not clear exactly where and when Gnocchi alla Bava were born. This recipe is widely noted in regional texts from the Valdostana and northern Piemonte areas. During the Fall and Winter months you will find Gnocchi alla Bava in most taverns and restaurants. This is a cheesy delight, with a bit of a bite from the somewhat tangy Fontina. The cheese slowly melts under the heat of the boiling hot gnocchi just out of the salted water.

The preparation is rather simple and assembling this plate can be done at the last minute allowing you to carry a hot, steaming, gooey plate of Gnocchi and Cheese to the delight of your guests.

Ingredients for 4 people:

Gnocchi
½ lb. (200 g) Fontina
¾ stick (80 g) Butter
Grated Parmesan Cheese
Truffle (optional)

Preparation:

Cut the butter and Fontina in thin slices.

Cook the Gnocchi in abundant boiling, salted water. As the Gnocchi float to the top of the water, remove and drain. Create a layer of Gnocchi in the bottom of the serving dish.

Distribute equal parts of butter and Fontina.

Create another layer of Gnocchi. Distribute evenly additional butter and Fontina.

Continue until all the Gnocchi are in the serving dish.

Fold the Gnocchi together lifting from the bottom to the top. Do not use a rotating motion when mixing.

Serve hot with a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese and/or shaved Truffle as desired.

Wine: The perfect wines for this dish are Roero Arneis, Valle d’Aosta Gamay or Grignolino.

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Thursday, September 28, 2006

Gnocchi – Little Puffs of Pleasure and Delight

Gnocchi are known by many names. They are Dumplings, Brotknödel, Quenelles, and some just know them as belly bombs. Belly bombs because they must be made fresh, whether they be made with flour, potato, or bread, if the gnocchi are not made just right they expand and fill you up leaving a bloated feeling.

In Italy gnocchi are part of the regional cuisine in many different areas. Sometimes the Gnocchi are the star of the plate while other they are a base for some delicate or savory sauce. Gnocchi have the unique quality of accentuating flavors and never dominating. Somehow they seem to adapt to the other ingredients in the plate. Thursday is Gnocchi Day and today it is with meatsauce

The trick to Gnocchi is good ingredients and balance. Choose the potatoes well. Make sure they are all of the same size and follow the method of preparation to the letter. In our home Raffaella makes the Gnocchi. This is her domain and her recipe.

Ingredients:

1 lbs. 1 oz. (500 gr.) of small or medium potatoes
125 gr. Flour
2 Egg yolks
a pinch of salt

Extra flour to work the dough.

Note: A word about the potatoes. The potato is the most important ingredient for gnocchi. The potato should be a white potato. We prefer the Russet from Idaho of small dimensions. The potatoes must be of the same size.

Preparation:

Wash the potatoes. Do not peel them. Steam the potatoes over a slow boil with the skins on. It will take about 20 minutes to cook the potatoes, somewhat longer if the potatoes are bigger. The potato should be just cooked. Overcooking will cause the potato to absorb too much water and the Gnocchi will be like rocks.

While the potatoes are still hot, remove the skins and mash by hand with a potato masher. Raffaella uses a thermal glove to remove the skins. Add all of the ingredients together in a bowl and mix. A dough will form. Move the dough onto a floured surface and knead the dough until it is soft and pliable but not sticky.

It is extremely important that the dough remain warm. Roll into a large log. Cut a piece off of the log and roll the piece into a long log about ½ inch thick. This would be about the width of an index finger. With a pastry knife cut the log into ½ inch pieces. Place the cut pieces onto a floured baking pan and leave the gnocchi to rest for about 30 minutes before cooking.

Personal Note from Raffaella: making gnocchi is easy, but not at the beginning: practice makes perfect gnocchi!!! In fact the trick is to recognize when is the right moment to stop adding extra flour because the dough has the right consistency; usually that happens after 3 or 4 times.

Cooking:

Bring abundant salted water to a boil. Place the gnocchi in the boiling water. The gnocchi will float to the top when done. This will take about 3-4 minutes. With a wire cooking ladle or a strainer remove the floating gnocchi from the boiling water. Tap the ladle on the side of the pot several times to help drain the water from the gnocchi before placing them in the serving dish.

Add the desired sauce and serve hot!

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Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Holiday Season – Italian Comfort Food

Autumn initiates the season of hearty foods, sauces and decadent desserts. Several of my readers have indicated a desire to try some of these foods. I thought I would ask my readers for suggestions as how this could be accomplished. I do not want to set up a production facility, my day job will not allow the time to do this but I would be willing to prepare a couple extra portions when I prepare for family and friends.

Any ideas? Please send me an email.




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