Artegna, Friuli, Venezia, Giulia – Re Purcit in Staiare – Celebration of the Pig

Purcit, in the dialect of Friuli, means pig. Staiare is the ancient Friulano dance, a variation of the Stiria Asburgica, of celebration. The dance was an integral part of the town’s local festivities. Purcit in Staiare is similar to the Thanksgiving holiday in the US. It is a time of thanks when the family’s pigs were slaughtered guaranteeing a nutrient source of meat for the upcoming winter. The pigs were a family’s greatest value.

The day of Saint Andrea, in the early morning light, the atmosphere was solemn when the butcher, both respected and feared, would arrive in the family’s home. As the day progressed and the salami, prosciutto, sausages, culatello, pancetta and zampone were prepared, the air would become more joyous and festive. The job was intense involving all members of the family, from the youngest to the most elder as the cellars filled with the meats hung to dry.

Times have changed. Life in Friuli is no longer tied to the seasons. The Purcit in Staiare is a way for the people to remember times past, to connect with their traditions, their ancestors and the things that make them who they are.

Every year, the last week in November, 20,000 people of the towns of Friuli and the mountain communities surrounding the area celebrate these traditions in Artegna. During the festivities the fattest pig is crowned king for the day. Although this may seem strange the tale of the King of Artegna explains the mystery.

A long time ago there was a kingdom, rich and opulent. All the kingdom’s subjects had enough food to eat and peace reigned throughout the land. In the capital of the kingdom, Artegna, the just and righteous king, Purcit, lived and ruled in the castle of Cjot.

Each day, after a healthy meal, he would sneak into the hidden dungeons of the castle where a magic talking scale was kept. He would step onto the scale and ask,

“Magic Scale, loyal subject of my realm, who is the fattest of the kingdom?”

Like clockwork, the magic scale would respond,

“There is no doubt my lord, there are none fatter than you!”

Content the king would return to his daily business. For many years the scene was repeated until one day, to the surprise of the king, the scale said,

“Fat you are my lord, but you must know, that fatter than you, one does exist.”

The king was furious. In rage he jumped up and down on the magic scale until it was broken into little pieces. The king became obsessed by his vanity and would eat and sleep forgetting his responsibilities. He became an evil ruler, taxing his people to near starvation to feed his desire.

Finally the day arrived. The king was sure that he no one could be fatter than he. He ordered all of his subjects summoned for a banquet to celebrate his opulence. On the day of his celebration the banquet halls were filled with every sort of food and his subjects, starved and broken, were around the hall to watch the king enjoy his feast. The king ate and ate. A voice arose from the crowd, desperate with hunger,

“To the table!”

The entire kingdom swarmed over the banquet and the king crushing him. The king was then carved and served to the people by the royal butchers and it is said there was sufficient meat to feed the entire kingdom for a year.

To this day the king of the day is the fattest pig in the kingdom, Il Re Purcit!

Tags: Udine Food and Wine Dried Meats Purcit Prosciutto Sausage Italian Vacations Friuli Travel Italy

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Schioppettino – Heirloom Red Wine of Friuli

Schioppettino is a marvelous red wine from the hills of Friuli. It is the perfect combination for the hearty red meats and wild game of Friulana recipes. In the 80s this wine was all but lost. There were even “Experts”, who I will leave unnamed, who promoted the expansion of the hybrid grapes over the “indigenous wines of little value.” Just seventeen years ago, the master sommelier considered Pignolo, Refosco di Faedis, Refosco di Rauscedo, Ribolla nera (Pocalza or Schioppettino), grapes of little value. I guess this should give an indication about how valid the international ratings are.

Schioppettino or Ribolla Nera is grown primarily in Prepotto, near Udine, and a small area around the little town in the hills of Friuli. This vine was almost extinct during Italy’s movement toward huge volumes, industrial processes, and lower quality wines of the 70s/80s. By the early 90s many of these industrialists saw their sales plummet and their companies bankrupt but the damage to the indigenous vines had already occurred. A few family owned wineries, relatively small in volume but big in expertise, including my favorite Ronchi di Cialla, kept the vines alive and did not follow the latest fad of the “Experts.”

Scoppiare means to explode. Schioppettino is the wine of a thousand little explosions. The fermentation of this heirloom red wine is completed in the bottle. This traps CO2 in the wine, similar to the Prosecco or Champagne processes, in the wine. This is a simple wine with bubbles and high acidity. It is produced in such limited quantities that few international importers will consider stocking this wine but its taste of wild berries and acidity make it a fresh compliment for Deer, Lepre, Wild Boar and other provincial recipes. A fantastic table wine with a reasonable cost, this can be an everyday choice for savory or gamey dishes.

Do not forget the “Festa del Schioppettino” held annually the last week in April!

Grape: Schioppettino also known as Ribolla Nera.

Color: bright red with a hint of violet towards the edge.

Bouquet: wild blackberry and raspberry.

Taste: dry, zesty, with low alcohol content, pleasant to drink, bubbly and inviting.

Alcohol Content: from 12.5 to 13.5 %

Serving Temperature: 16-18 c.

Decanting: None.

Pouring: No special indications.

Glass: Red wine glass.

Aging: This wine can age but is ready to drink once it hits the shelves.

Tags:Schioppettino Ribolla Nera Heirloom Wines Red Wine Italian Wine Friuli Sommelier Food and Wine Travel Italy

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