Friday, August 10, 2007

Fake Prosecco and Pinot Grigio on the Market – Protecting Quality 2007

Thanks to the great Italian wine bloggers Aristide and Lizzy, the wine journalist, for the information necessary this article.

Italian wines are the best wines in the world. I have not tasted all the wines in the world and I am not saying that there are not some fantastic wines produced in every country. I am saying that Italy has the strictest legislation in the world designed to protect the quality of wine and the consumer from corporations who, rightly so, are only interested in making a buck. The legislation regarding alimentary and wine products allows me to say, blindly, when there are two products sitting on the table, one from the US and one from Italy, the Italian product is better. Most of the time I will be right following this assumption. This is not to say that Americans do not know how to make a great product. I have tasted some marvelous California wine. Making a good product with quality ingredients is not the most profitable way to run a company and our government does not think that alimentary quality should stand in the way of corporate profitability.

When I see events like this, in Italy, I am both disappointed that a few unscrupulous and greedy people would harm such an important Italian industry and heartened that the laws on the books actually are there to be enforced. In an operation, which began in 2005, Italian authorities have discovered fraudulent companies providing grapes and wine of unknown origin to a dozen “victims” who sold the wine on international markets. The investigation uncovered a business of 3.2 million .750 liter bottles of Prosecco and Pinot Grigio and confiscated about 1 million bottles ready to be sold.

The “victims” are:


  • Banear Scarl - Treppo Grande (UD)

  • Beringer - Mercatale Val di Pesa (FI)

  • Gallo Vineyards - USA

  • La Sociale s.u.r.l. - Brisighella (RA)

  • Le Rive Az. Agricola - Ponte di Piave (TV)

  • Nuova Commerciale - Ovada (AL)

  • Rossetti Srl - Cerreto Guidi (FI)

  • Schenk Italia Srl - Ora (BZ)

  • Sektkellerei Schloss - Germania

  • Sektkellerei Herres - Germania

  • Terrazze della Luna - Trento

  • Vedovato Mario - Trebaseleghe (PD)

  • Vive Srl - Azzano X (PN)


Yes, you see correctly the names of two wines famous in the US and the promoters of the Paris Hilton Prosecco in a can. The authorities are quick to say that the “victims” were unknowingly purchasing the “two buck chuck” and selling it as two of the best white wines on the market. The Italian bloggers, as am I, are a bit more cynical. The thought process is simple,

“These companies knew what they were buying or they are totally incompetent when it comes to grapes and wine.”

Whether these companies were intentionally defrauding the consumer or incapable of telling the difference between a Prosecco grape and Petite Arvine is not important. It is important that we consumers know that when we purchase Gallo or Beringer we are not getting Prosecco or Pinot Grigio. We are buying “two buck chuck” even though it may cost $20. As the investigation proceeds we should see other names appear since the labels under which these wines were distributed has not been completely discovered.





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Friday, July 20, 2007

Prosecco and Sabers – Who’s your Daddy!?!

A one-line headline on the newswires caught my attention:

Winemaker Gianluca Bisol, the group will gather in the northern town of Treviso at the weekend to display their skill at opening champagne bottles by slicing off the top with a saber.

The Bisol family makes a few really good Prosecco wines. Many know that the method of making many Prosecco wines is the Charmat not the Champagne method. It seemed reasonable to think that anything having to do with Bubbly would interest Gianluca Bisol. He is involved in most of the wine and educational associations in Veneto.

Opening a bottle of Champagne or Prosecco with a saber seemed a bit sensationalist. I assumed that they were talking about some new bottle opener called the saber. I was amazed to find that it is exactly what it says it is, open a bottle of Champagne with a sword. There is a worldwide association of Saber Rattlers. The association counts 30,000 members in 12 countries. The newest chapter of the group is opening in Treviso.

The practice goes back to the times of Napoleon. Several writers have documented both the method and the story. After reading their accounts, my cynical mind went to work. Bisol has a vested interest in developing this fashion. Urban Daddy writes:

Of course, the only thing that looks worse than struggling with a champagne cork is struggling with a saber and a champagne cork, so in a word: practice.

How many bottles will we break in the interest of practice? Once I learn how to do it perfectly, Prosecco would be a requirement at any dinner with friends.

Enough of my malicious considerations. This would be an impressive display if your friends don’t call 911 when they see you walk in with a sword. As you are swiping away at the neck of an innocent bottle of Prosecco you can grunt, “Who’s your Daddy!?!”






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Sunday, March 04, 2007

Italian Fashion Tendencies to Entertain with Style

What do you get when you put a French Champagne producer and an Italian fashion designer together? You have the recipe for a new tendency in fashion. French Champagne producer Dom Ruinart wanted to create a new festive environment for his bubbly wine. Italian designer Luca Roda received the call to create an image of color and movement, something to substitute the austere white napkin traditionally used to serve his sparkling wine. Luca Roda designs silk ties, pashmina scarves and silk foulards. The result of this partnership is a colorful display that brings attention to the true protagonist of the party, the Champagne.

This is a new tendency that can easily be imitated in any home with just a little imagination. Just pull out that pashmina scarf that you haven’t worn in a while or a silk scarf that has been sitting in the closet. Wrap it around the neck of the bottle, flowing over the edge of the ice bucket and you have brought the latest and greatest of European entertaining to your party. The bottle does not have to be Champagne. It can easily be Prosecco or any other sparkling wine.

Play with the color combinations, solid earth tones will be fine with the forest green and gold labels. Brighter designs can be combined with stripes and patterns. A less expensive bottle can be accentuated with a silk foulard making your guests feel that they are important. The difference between a successful get together and a boring, can’t wait to get out of here, flop can be as simple as something to talk about. This will give your guests a reason to talk together and for the world travelers show them that you know what is happening on the international scene.

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Thursday, March 01, 2007

Foss Marai Prosecco DOC Extra – Dry

Our current evaluation of Prosecco ends with Foss Marai Prosecco Extra – Dry. Foss Marai Prosecco is a good Prosecco, produced using traditional methods. Foss Marai is part of the Consorzio dei Produttori Prosecco del Valdobbiadene but their claim to quality has been earned over generations. The Biasotto family has dedicated their efforts to the production of Prosecco for over a century. Foss Marai produces some very interesting wines and the Prosecco Extra – Dry is just one of many quality products. The vineyard is located deep in the valleys of Guia. The local dialect calls the valleys, fossi. Marai is another name for Guia, thus the winery took the name of the place of production, Foss Marai.



Foss Marai Prosecco Extra – Dry develops the common floral flavors of Prosecco. While it is an extra – dry we found it slightly tending toward sweet without the slightly bitter tones we like so much in the sparkling Prosecco. The bubbles are small and probably on the light side of other sparkling wines. It does produce that small burp after a couple of sips but is not pungent or dominant. The basic flavor is green fruit, specifically green apples, however the sugar content creates a smooth finish. For us this makes Foss Marai less an Aperitivo and more an accompanying wine for light sauces, mild cheeses, and baked fish.

Our quest continues in the search for our perfect Prosecco. For others this may be the perfect choice as taste and preference are very personal. We will continue our research. We will suffer the numerous bottles of marvelous Prosecco that, while great, are not perfect. For you, we will make the sacrifice.





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Thursday, February 22, 2007

Prosecco Crede Brut Bisol 2005

So many great Prosecco wines and so few days in the week, this is the dilemma. From the Prosecco Brut of the corporate entity of Aneri we passed to a exclusive product of the Bisol family winery, Prosecco Crede Brut Bisol 2005. It is hard to expose greater contrast in two wineries. The Bisol family has been in the Prosecco regions since the XVI century growing the Prosecco grapes. In the late 1800s they began producing their own wines and have recently taken their family’s passion to a new level adding an Agriturismo with wine tasting, grape growing and wine making courses.

This is a Prosecco and a vacation experience. Think about shedding the traditional tourist clothes, dawning your jeans and gloves, shears in hand you learn to grow and pick grapes. How about a two week vacation making wine or a week of wine tasting where you will not hear about ratings or flavors and bouquets in an aesthetic context, instead combined with visits to the kitchen to pair flavors and structure. This Prosecco is great just thinking about how it is made and the possibility to participate in next year’s production. I have said enough about the vacation, how about the wine.

Prosecco Crede Brut Bisol 2005 is a single vineyard Prosecco, 85% Prosecco, 10% Pinot Bianco; 5% Verdiso. The vineyard is located on the steep hills of the "Poderi Bisol". The wine's name, Crede, comes from the clay soils known as "crede". Initially it has that slightly bitter taste that we love in a Prosecco but the finish sweetens out a bit. The bubbles are more intrusive than the Montesel but still a bit on the light side for our preference. Additionally, as we continued into the bottle it seemed to lose that characteristic flavor we associate with Prosecco. The alcohol content is good at 11.5% but the flowers and honey take away the dryness in the finish.

Wine Spectator always rates this wine well. This year is an 89 so the wine should do well with most American tastes. Still it is not exactly what we are looking for in complete Prosecco. Do not mistake me, this Prosecco will be great with most delicate Risotto recipes and the persistent foam makes this great for festive occasions. The Bisol family knows their stuff but I believe the true value in this Prosecco is the opportunity to vacation in the Agriturismo and to learn about the passion of wine.





Grape: 85% Prosecco, 10% Pinot Bianco, 5% Verdisio.

Color: Brilliant straw yellow with a foam consisting of a myriad of minute and persistent bubbles.
Bouquet: Scents of wildflowers that are appropriately Intense and fresh and an emerging and agreeable note of fruitiness.

Taste: As in the bouquet, there are fruity hints of apples and pears and their harmony is completed by a rich and refined structure.

Alcohol Content: 11.5 %

Serving Temperature: 9 c.

Decanting: None.

Pouring: Pour slowly with a 15-20 degree inclination.

Glass: Flute.

Aging: Up to 2 years.

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Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Prosecco Brut Aneri

Our quest for a new Prosecco continues. Dinner is Pork Chops with Pure’. Pork is one of the milder meats and the sauce is flavored with a hint of lemon. Traditionally we would choose a white wine like an Arneis or a Ribolla Gialla but we are discovering Prosecco. We are not just looking for an Aperitivo, but the perfect accompaniment for before, during and after dinner. Today’s choice is Prosecco Brut Aneri. Unfortunately no vintage is evident on the bottle. I always wonder why producers omit certain information on the bottle. Skeptically I think of all the reasons why the Aneri winery would not indicate the vintage and nothing I can think of leads me to believe that this will be a quality product.

I think quality comes from generations of experience and a profound understanding of the grape and the methodology of production. Aneri is one of those producers who producers numerous types of wines from different regions including Tuscany and Alto Adige. The usual way this happens is through acquisition of smaller wineries and while they attempt to maintain the culture of the artisan production somehow I think the corporate culture makes its way into the wine.

It should be remembered that our preference of taste in Prosecco is different than most Americans. We know Prosecco with a slightly bitter taste, good volume of bubbles, extra dry and not at all sweet. Of the Prosecco we have tried, Aneri came the closest to this profile. It is a fragrant, light and persistent sparkling wine with straw yellow color. It has an elegant, floral bouquet of acacia and wild flowers.






It was pretty good as an Aperitivo not great, but pretty good. With the pork and lemon sauce the Prosecco did much better. It did not make it to the after dinner phase so, I guess, that indicates that it was an overall success. Generally I do not think we have found our best choice Prosecco but Prosecco Brut Aneri will do well in most occasions where fish or white meats are protagonist. Perhaps I am influenced by the lack of information about how and when the wine was produced, perhaps I am missing the air of Friuli, either way Prosecco Brut Aneri is good but not great.

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