Sunday, September 16, 2007

Festa del Barolo – September - A Celebration of Wine & Culture

In the land of the king of wines a two day celebration of flavors has just concluded. Every year during in the first 15 days of September the town of Barolo holds its annual festival. Lover’s of food and wine alike wait, with anticipation, for one of the most antique town festivals of the Langhe. The Festa del Barolo is not just about wine. It is an occasion to experience the traditions and culture that go into the production of the king of wines.


The city of Barolo has organized the festival as a guided tour. The trip begins with an exhibition of local artists. The cultural exposure lasts just about an hour. There is time for caffe and cornetti before beginning the full immersion tour of the culinary delights of the Langhe. The hour long visit to the artist’s booths is one of the few occasions to meet a wide range of local artists.



Barolo is known for wine and Piemonte is known for its exquisite dishes. At one time this was the home to kings. The traditional recipes are a unique experience for the refined palate. The food and wine tour begins at 10:30. A visit to each of the local producers offers new flavors:


Salumi d'anatra (seasoned and cured duck meats), coppa and filet al Barolo
Appetizers of Piemonte, Eggplant wraps with tuna and capers, crostone con crema ghiotta
Veal, lard spiked with honey, Cured and cooked fresh Salami al Barolo
Agnolotti with a red meat sauce
Sapori umbri di Spello
Fried Mushrooms
Extra Virgin Olive Oil from Imperia
Parisian snails and snail fritatta
Stuffed Bell Peppers filled with Mushrooms, Salami and cheeses
Tinche di Ceresole in carpione
Risotto al Barolo
Ravioli Butter and Sage
The latest release of Barolo DOCG
Castelmagno, Bra, Valle Sacra, Caprino Dolce, Herb Pecorino
Margaro, Murazzano, Rashera and Sejrass del Fen cheeses.

These are just a few of the delights. Some of the after dinner digestive dishes are:

Cheese and Honey, Grape Mostarda, Wine Jello
Nebbiolo Grappa Sorbet
Chocolate covered Peaches
Barolo di Barolo
Barolo Chinato offered with various selections of chocolate

Two days does not seem to be long enough to get through this smorgasbord of luxurious treats.

The month of September is a great time to visit Piemonte. The new wines are in the vats and with the cooler temperatures the food is more satisfying. The Festa di Barolo is one event not to miss. Perhaps a longer vacation could include Barolo and Barbaresco to then culminate in the Fiera del Tartufo in Alba!

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Wednesday, August 01, 2007

Barolo Ravera 2003 DOCG Elvio Cogno

Barolo is one of my favorite wines. Barolo is a full-bodied wine. Most Barolo express complex and distinct flavor. The price of Barolo usually is relatively high making it a difficult choice for an every day meal. We will spend the extra bucks when making a Brasato al Barolo or a Risotto Barolo and Sausage. Last week, I had the opportunity to taste a Barolo Ravera 2003 DOCG by Elvio Cogno. It was young. In fact I consider it an infanticide but the quality of Barolo shined through. The company explains the wine like this:


Many consider “Ravera” a great Barolo Cru, although its elaboration is difficult because of the altitude and type of soil. This is a Barolo with a very strong character, which does not loose its origins even through its partial ageing in small casks. The Ravera Cru terroir is expressed in the wine with the finesse of the bouquet, a full flavoured palate and great complexity. The slightly prolonged fermentation intends to ennoble these attributes, which give their best after ageing.

An intense garnet red, lively and brilliant with a slight orange rim. Its nose appears candid, elegant and strong, evoking dog-rose, mint and tobacco that in time turn to fragrances of spices, coffee, liquorice and truffle with a leather and mineral finish. In the mouth it appears full, rounded, strong bodied and well balanced. It has a forward flavour of plum preserve and dried blackberry with a chocolate finish giving a harmonious and pleasant aromatic persistence.

It is extremely affable in its first years, becoming austere with classic elegance and boldness as time goes on.

While I agree with the tasting notes, the 2003 is too young. The fruity body dominates. This may be appealing to some but I love a true Barolo with balance and complexity. I enjoy the subtle passage from one flavor to another and that experience is lost unless you let the bottle decant for at least one hour and two would be better. As the wine ages the flavors will balance. At 35$ a bottle you can buy this Barolo and stick it in your cellar for a couple of years.

Today I would drink this wine with red sauces and savory first plates. In a few years this will marvelously accompany aged hard cheeses, complex red meats and wild game.

Grape: 100% Nebbiolo

Color: Intense Garnet Red.

Bouquet: dog-rose, mint and tobacco that in time turn to fragrances of spices, coffee, liquorice and truffle with a leather and mineral finish

Flavor: plum preserve and dried blackberry with a chocolate finish.

Alcohol: 13%

Serving Temperature: 19 c.

Glass: Amarone (produced by Bottega del Vino) or Balloon.

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