Castello di Compiano – Vacation at a Medieval Castle near Parma

In the hills surrounding Parma there are numerous castles. Many of these properties have been transformed into hotels while maintaining their aura of mystery. Parma is famous for its prosciutto and Parmesan cheese. These products alone are a great reason to spend a few days in the area. Parma is also a land of scenic views and Medieval towns. Castello di Compiano is the anchor of the town of Compiano, recently recognized as one of the Borghi piu’ Belli del Italia, the most beautiful towns of Italy.

The town of Compiano develops inside the walls of the castle making this a perfect destination for a 3 or 4 day stay. Local shops, restaurants and products are all within walking distance of primary unit of the castle. Only a few areas have been dedicated to lodging. The major portion of the castle is a museum. Most of the rooms are on the upper floor or in the towers creating a suggestive atmosphere and beautiful views of the surrounding area. Rock walls and original fishbone wood floors take you back to the 1100s. The rooms are filled with antique furniture completing the experience.

From the third floor rooms a turn around the corner takes you out onto the walkway of the upper fortifications. As you stroll the sounds of battles past whisper in your ears. The breeze carries scents of the surrounding forests and agricultural lands. Castello di Compiano takes you into the times of princes and kings, sumptuous banquets with extravagant festivities and armored knights riding powerful horses. The elevators and centralized heating, while masked, somehow seem a bit out of place but after a long day of activities are greatly appreciated.

In the late summer, the swimming pool, located in the castle’s gardens, is a great way to cool off before visiting one of the trattoria. The local cuisine is heavily influenced by the bordering Emilia Romagna. Dried meats and Parmesan cheese as appetizers followed by fresh pasta and savory meats dominate the local tables. This is not a wine producing area but wines from Veneto and Tuscany are widely available as are some local farmer’s wines.

The beautiful medieval burgh, whose genuine structure may still be admired to this day, with its cobblestone streets and buildings bearing ancient friezes and sculpted architraves on the doorways. From the walls surrounding the picturesque medieval square you can admire a beautiful view on Isola's plain, across which the River Taro runs on its way down from Monte Penna.

At the end of Via Duca degli Abruzzi stands the Porta delle Monache, for centuries the main entrance to the fortified burgh, while only the foundations of the towers which once guarded the burgh still stand. Compiano is a place of exceptional beauty that has remained untouched over its 400-year history.

Castello Compiano is located about 90 miles from Milan and 90 miles from Bologna. The closest airport is Genova.

Castello di Compiano Museo e Relais
Via Marco Rossi Sidoli, 15 43053 Compiano (Parma)
Tel. 0525.825541 - Fax. 0525.811106


Tags: Italian Vacations Castles Agriturismo Parma Travel Italy

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Parmigiano Reggiano – Reggiano-Parmesan Cheese

The August sun is hot in the hinterland Milanese. As the Lamborghini tractor cuts the topsoil eliminating the weed, the smell of rich farmland permeates the air. The summer season is near the end and the pear trees are weighted down by the weight of the maturing fruit.

Saturdays are fun, a break from the get up at 5 and take the bus to Milan to return home at 10:30 at night. At the break of dawn, after a hot cup of coffee and zabaglione, it’s off to the garden just outside of town. The “garden” is about 3 acres and has been in my wife’s family for about four hundred years. At one time it was much larger but inheritances had split the once formidable farm into numerous family gardens. Along the edge are Cherry, Pear, Fig, and Plum trees while in the center grows corn, carrots, potatoes, various salads, cauliflower, sprouts, greens, squash and pumpkins.

“David, let’s take a break, I want you to try something,” Giuseppe calls out.

In the small shack built in the center of the garden to house the tools, there is a small table and a couple of cots. After a morning in the sun, some dried meats and a flask of Barbera make up lunch before a nap during the hottest hours of the day. Giuseppe has picked about 20 pears that are neatly stacked on the table. He pulls a cloth towel from the knapsack we brought every weekend. He opens the towel to reveal a large triangle of Parmigiano and soft salami.

“I want you to try something before we have lunch,” he states as he breaks off several pieces of Parmigiano with a large knife. He hands me a pear and some cheese, pours a glass of Barbera and then holds the pear in both hands and with his thumbs splits the pear cleanly, vertically, right down the middle.

He then proceeds to bend the pear from the skin side and takes a bite from the exposed pulp and pops a piece of Parmigiano in his mouth.

“Never tell a farmer how good Parmigiano with pears is,” he says. This is an old saying in Milan indicating that if the farmers know just how good this is the pears will never arrive to Milan.
The taste of Parmigiano reflects the antique origins of this delicacy, distinct flavors with personality, a hint of acidity yet an encompassing smoothness, powerful but not overbearing, this cheese can double as a meal or as a compliment to other savory foods that have character. Mix and match with mature fruits, honey, tomato sauces, or simply with a hearty wine, Parmigiano is an important ingredient in any cooks arsenal.

Some things Parmigiano is not:

- produced outside of a very small region including Parma, Modena, Bologna and Reggio Emilia
- found in a green can produced by Kraft or other similar brands
- used on meek tasting dishes (unless you want them to taste like Parmigiano)
- produced by modern industrial method with additives or preservatives
- just grated or shredded

The current method of production was instituted in the 1200s and has been perfected but maintained over the last 8 centuries. Protected by different legislative articles over the years, Parmigiano is only produced in the “Reggiano” area using only milk from cows in the same area. It takes 16 liters of milk to make 1 kilo of Parmigiano. The “Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano” guarantees that the processes, the primary ingredients and the final product are the same.

The producers have recently organized a school with the purpose of creating master cheese makers specialized in the production of Parmigiano. It is possible to visit the cheese production facilities, the aging cellars, and the museum when in Parma. The train from Bologna to Milan passes through Parma, make a stop, visit the cellars, it is destination worth visiting.

Tags: Cheese Parma Parmigiano Food and Wine Emilia Romagna Italy

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